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Bricked It

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I'm surprised it ever did anything on a 2S Battery.
No, a 2S battery is not going to work. The MAXIMUM voltage on a 2S is 8.4V. You will need to install a usable battery of the correct voltage and type before anything will work, or will even have meaning when reviewed on the GUI.
The images you uploaded indicate the GUI is not even connecting to the Q500.
I got the 3S, its starting up properly now. It will finish a successful initializing then goes nto blue blinking light. I got into bind mode but will not bind with transmitter. I also connected the bird into my laptop and I'm the same messages. I tried to install an updated version of the firmware with no success.
 

WTFDproject

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The system may have developed a glitch due to the low voltage. We need to diagnose the binding failure.
Use attachment 26 (Q500 Binding Verification) of the document in the link posted below. EVERY step must be completed. If you skip a step because you are convinced it does not need to be checked, the effort will fail. I promise. The document has led to success for many people that used it correctly. It has worked for almost none that took shortcuts. And believe me, you are going to be tempted to take shortcuts. This thing is long and tedious. But you have to hang in there for it to work. The idea is that you work through it step at a time until you reach a step that does NOT produce the desired result. Then report it here, and we can often determine the underlying problem.
Again, you are looking for Attachment 26 (Q500 Binding Verification) in:
"Way To Fix Drones project"
Good luck.
 
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The system may have developed a glitch due to the low voltage. We need to diagnose the binding failure.
Use attachment 26 (Q500 Binding Verification) of the document in the link posted below. EVERY step must be completed. If you skip a step because you are convinced it does not need to be checked, the effort will fail. I promise. The document has led to success for many people that used it correctly. It has worked for almost none that took shortcuts. And believe me, you are going to be tempted to take shortcuts. This thing is long and tedious. But you have to hang in there for it to work. The idea is that you work through it step at a time until you reach a step that does NOT produce the desired result. Then report it here, and we can often determine the underlying problem.
Again, you are looking for Attachment 26 (Q500 Binding Verification) in:
"Way To Fix Drones project"
Good luck.
I got to step #37: "Verify the receiver ID is displayed in white letters below the orange “Not connected” label in the “Model” column."

The model is not listed underneath the "Model" column.
 

WTFDproject

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Are you certain the orange (blue) light in the left wing started flashing faster between Step 27 and Step 30?
The light is on the drone receiver, sometimes called the RF Module. It is actually a two way transceiver. If the light got faster, it means it is in communication with the mainboard of the drone. But if the ID is not showing up on the controller, it means it is NOT in communication with the controller. The possibilities are bad antenna connections in either the drone or the controller, or damaged RF modules in either the drone or the controller. The drone module would be suspect because of operating at low voltage, but the presence of the light indicates it is at least partially functional. Another possibility is the NFZ firmware has caused an issue.

Have you recently opened either the drone or the controller?
Do you have another controller, or another drone available for testing?
Did you make any changes to the controller firmware?

Also, are you sure you are using a "Data Capable" USB cord when connecting the drone to the GUI? An ordinary charging USB looks exactly like a "Data" USB, but will not work for file transfer or GUI. I assume you had a data USB when you installed the NFZ firmware. Are you sure you are using the same USB cable?

One last thought. You mentioned your Q500 is a Q500 4K. If that is correct, the GUI plug in the battery door is a one sided plug. If you have a different Q500 model, there are two sets of wires plugged together. Either way, that plug is often hit by the battery during installation and removal. The pins get pulled out, and that may be another thing to check to figure out why the GUI is not working. If you can get the GUI to work, you may be able to uninstall that NFZ firmware. And on an older model with two sets of wires plugged together, that is the path between the receiver and the mainboard.
 
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Are you certain the orange (blue) light in the left wing started flashing faster between Step 27 and Step 30?
The light is on the drone receiver, sometimes called the RF Module. It is actually a two way transceiver. If the light got faster, it means it is in communication with the mainboard of the drone. But if the ID is not showing up on the controller, it means it is NOT in communication with the controller. The possibilities are bad antenna connections in either the drone or the controller, or damaged RF modules in either the drone or the controller. The drone module would be suspect because of operating at low voltage, but the presence of the light indicates it is at least partially functional. Another possibility is the NFZ firmware has caused an issue.

Have you recently opened either the drone or the controller?
Do you have another controller, or another drone available for testing?
Did you make any changes to the controller firmware?

Also, are you sure you are using a "Data Capable" USB cord when connecting the drone to the GUI? An ordinary charging USB looks exactly like a "Data" USB, but will not work for file transfer or GUI. I assume you had a data USB when you installed the NFZ firmware. Are you sure you are using the same USB cable?

One last thought. You mentioned your Q500 is a Q500 4K. If that is correct, the GUI plug in the battery door is a one sided plug. If you have a different Q500 model, there are two sets of wires plugged together. Either way, that plug is often hit by the battery during installation and removal. The pins get pulled out, and that may be another thing to check to figure out why the GUI is not working. If you can get the GUI to work, you may be able to uninstall that NFZ firmware. And on an older model with two sets of wires plugged together, that is the path between the receiver and the mainboard.
I don't see that slow orange (blue) flashing light in the vent. There is a solid red light located in the battery compartment.

I don't have any way to test either, I also didnt open the drone or make any changes to the controller. The data cable is the original white one that came with the drone.
 

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I don't see that slow orange (blue) flashing light in the vent. There is a solid red light located in the battery compartment.
OK. I can see this was not explained clearly enough. The idea is to follow the verification until something does not match the expectation. When you reached Step 27 and found NO LIGHT, that did not meet the expectation of a "slowly flashing LED". That was the place to stop.

With this new information, it shows the drone receiver is dead. You might want to check the connector in the battery compartment first. If the problem is there, it is easier to address. Otherwise, you will need to take the top off and trace the wires and connections between the receiver and mainboard.
 
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Correct, my apologies. I missed that step.

I removed the top and didn't see anything disconnected. I also reseated all connectors that connect to the receiver and control board, still no lights coming from the receiver.
 

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Probably a bad receiver. But I would at least check the voltage to the receiver before replacing it.
Note the Red and Black wires are reversed at the Mainboard. (Red=Ground. Black=Positive).
However, if you measure at the receiver end, they are normal (Red=Positive, Black=Ground). We can thank Yuneec for that.

Not sure about the correct voltage. I think it is ~3.25 volts, but not absolutely sure.
 

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