CGO3+ slip ring yaw motor

[cameraman52]

What is the function of the CGO3+ slip ring yaw motor and what happens if it is faulty.
I´ve seen videos on YT but for me it is abracadabra.
Thanks in advance

 

[jannislh]

There is a slip ring basically going through the drive shaft of the yaw motor. It is responsible for connecting the drone to the gimbal electronics. That means it is responsible for both supplying power and signal to the gimbal and the camera. If it fails, it might be anything from no reaction at all to no pan control and so on.

Actually it is a pretty well made little thing, which does a very good job. Unless you crash, it is also pretty durable.

 

[WTFDproject]

What is the function of the CGO3+ slip ring yaw motor and what happens if it is faulty.

Seems there is always another way to interpret a question. @jannislh provided a good description of what the slip ring wires do. I.e., the electrical function.

But I wondered if you meant the mechanical function.

The mechanical function is just to eliminate twist and tangle in the wires. There are six wires in this power/control bundle. The top end of each wire is attached to the gimbal mount, which does not move. The lower end of each wire attaches to the camera main board, which rotates as the camera rotates (camera yaw). Simple wires won’t work for this, because the wires would just twist up and create all kinds of mess. The slip ring is the solution.

The slip ring consists of a stack of six insulated disks. Each disk is attached to the lower half of one of the six wires. The disks move with the camera. There is also a stack of six insulated brushes. Each brush rides on one of the six disks, and each brush is attached to the top half of one of the six wires. The brushes do not move. In essence, they “slip” around the moving disks as the camera moves, providing a circuit without tangle between the upper stationary end of the wires, and the lower rotating end of the wires.

A failure of the slip ring is the same as a break (or a short) in the wires, and is as described above by @jannislh.

 

[cameraman52]

Thank you for both replies. I am not so confused anymore.
I also know that there is a kind of fuse on the CGO3+ mainboard.
So, can I state that when the CGO3+ moves (calibrates) and points forward the fuse is not broken.
When after calibration the camera will not pan or tilt, then there is a problem with the wires in the slip ring or the connection at each end of these wires.
One cam was just for a moment OK, it pans and tilts, But quick after that, it doesn´t move anymore. Loos like a connection and not the slip ring. is my supposition right?

 

[WTFDproject]

See italics.

"So, can I state that when the CGO3+ moves (calibrates) and points forward the fuse is not broken."
That is correct. If the camera has power, the fuse is good.

"When after calibration the camera will not pan or tilt, then there is a problem with the wires in the slip ring or the connection at each end of these wires."
That is by far the most common cause for failure in the CG03+. However, there are other causes, and especially if you have more than one camera exhibiting the same behavior, the other causes become more of a possibility.

"One cam was just for a moment OK, it pans and tilts, But quick after that, it doesn´t move anymore. Loos like a connection and not the slip ring. is my supposition right?"
I did not understand you had more than one camera involved. If that is correct, then yes, the most likely cause would be associated with two particular wires. The issue will be inside the drone, but before I go take a drone apart to make pictures, please confirm you have more than one camera, and that both are exhibiting this problem.

However, there is one quick thing you can check. On the drone part of the camera mount there are six spring contacts. Sometimes these get stuck in, and don't make good contact. Please look at those contacts to ensure they are all EXACTLY the same. Also ensure the battery is removed before you try to adjust those contacts. Even a tiny moment of short between them will blow the fuse you mentioned, or possibly damage the drone. With the battery removed, no harm will come.

 

[John Hennessy]

"So, can I state that when the CGO3+ moves (calibrates) and points forward the fuse is not broken."
That is correct. If the camera has power, the fuse is good.

"When after calibration the camera will not pan or tilt, then there is a problem with the wires in the slip ring or the connection at each end of these wires."
That is by far the most common cause for failure in the CG03+. However, there are other causes, and especially if you have more than one camera exhibiting the same behavior, the other causes become more of a possibility.

"One cam was just for a moment OK, it pans and tilts, But quick after that, it doesn´t move anymore. Loos like a connection and not the slip ring. is my supposition right?"
I did not understand you had more than one camera involved. If that is correct, then yes, the most likely cause would be associated with two particular wires. The issue will be inside the drone, but before I go take a drone apart to make pictures, please confirm you have more than one camera, and that both are exhibiting this problem.

However, there is one quick thing you can check. On the drone part of the camera mount there are six spring contacts. Sometimes these get stuck in, and don't make good contact. Please look at those contacts to ensure they are all EXACTLY the same. Also ensure the battery is removed before you try to adjust those contacts. Even a tiny moment of short between them will blow the fuse you mentioned, or possibly damage the drone. With the battery removed, no harm will come.

You do great work WTFDPROJECT, you have the ability to explain the problem and then the answer.
We are a very lucky forum to have you as a member and so willing to share with all of us.
Thanks Johnno Hennessy. Keep flying on the green side of the grass.

 

[jannislh]

I also know that there is a kind of fuse on the CGO3+ mainboard.

Are you sure? As far as I know there is no fuse on the mainboard of the CGO3+. But there is a fuse on the mainboard of the Typhoon H protecting the output to the camera. If it fails the camera is dead. But it is very easy to replace and espacially better then any fried electronics.

"One cam was just for a moment OK, it pans and tilts, But quick after that, it doesn´t move anymore. Loos like a connection and not the slip ring. is my supposition right?"
I did not understand you had more than one camera involved. If that is correct, then yes, the most likely cause would be associated with two particular wires. The issue will be inside the drone, but before I go take a drone apart to make pictures, please confirm you have more than one camera, and that both are exhibiting this problem.

You should have a look at the contacts between Typhoon H and Camera. Sometimes they bend and do not supply an adequate connection anymore.

 

[cameraman52]

"So, can I state that when the CGO3+ moves (calibrates) and points forward the fuse is not broken."
That is correct. If the camera has power, the fuse is good.

"When after calibration the camera will not pan or tilt, then there is a problem with the wires in the slip ring or the connection at each end of these wires."
That is by far the most common cause for failure in the CG03+. However, there are other causes, and especially if you have more than one camera exhibiting the same behavior, the other causes become more of a possibility.

"One cam was just for a moment OK, it pans and tilts, But quick after that, it doesn´t move anymore. Loos like a connection and not the slip ring. is my supposition right?"
I did not understand you had more than one camera involved. If that is correct, then yes, the most likely cause would be associated with two particular wires. The issue will be inside the drone, but before I go take a drone apart to make pictures, please confirm you have more than one camera, and that both are exhibiting this problem.

However, there is one quick thing you can check. On the drone part of the camera mount there are six spring contacts. Sometimes these get stuck in, and don't make good contact. Please look at those contacts to ensure they are all EXACTLY the same. Also ensure the battery is removed before you try to adjust those contacts. Even a tiny moment of short between them will blow the fuse you mentioned, or possibly damage the drone. With the battery removed, no harm will come.

First of all thanks for your cooperation I appreciate.

However, there is one quick thing you can check. On the drone part of the camera mount there are six spring contacts.
I have inspected all the contacts. Exactly the same.

I did not understand you had more than one camera involved. If that is correct, then yes, the most likely cause would be associated with two particular wires..
No I have one camera with the issue as described. I have another one but this camera functions 100% although it has a bent vertical arm.
That means that there is nothing faulty inside the H and at the contacts outside the body.

I will take a look at the wires which are connected to the top end of the gimbal mount. I think the problem is not the lower end of these wires because they are fitted in a plug.
Am I right?

 

[cameraman52]

Are you sure? As far as I know there is no fuse on the mainboard of the CGO3+. But there is a fuse on the mainboard of the Typhoon H protecting the output to the camera. If it fails the camera is dead. But it is very easy to replace and espacially better then any fried electronics.



You should have a look at the contacts between Typhoon H and Camera. Sometimes they bend and do not supply an adequate connection anymore.

I did, they are all the same, no difference.

 

[WTFDproject]

I will take a look at the wires which are connected to the top end of the gimbal mount. I think the problem is not the lower end of these wires because they are fitted in a plug. Am I right?

Yes, with your clarification that the second camera behaves normally, and that the problem camera has power and stabilizes, the slip ring wires become a very high probability. Even if the camera is dead, the slip ring is often the problem.

1.) Pay particular attention to the White wire and the Green wire. BOTH have to be normal for EITHER pan or tilt to work.

2.) These are the most common slip ring problems I have seen myself or heard others discuss:
a.) A break in the wire, especially common at the metal edge of the slip ring casing.
b.) A short at the edge of the slip ring housing. (insulation gets cut by the edge of the slip ring casing)
c.) Wire broken at the solder joint of the contact plate
d.) Damaged wire insulation caused by using the short rubber dampers. (I have seen others report this.)

3.) You may have to unplug the lower connector and check for continuity. The failure occurring intermittently, especially after a calibration (lots of movement in a short time), suggests there may be a problem with the brushes inside the slip ring.

This drawing shows what each wire does (to the best of my knowledge). I thought it might help as you look at the wiring:

 

[cameraman52]

Yes, with your clarification that the second camera behaves normally, and that the problem camera has power and stabilizes, the slip ring wires become a very high probability. Even if the camera is dead, the slip ring is often the problem.

1.) Pay particular attention to the White wire and the Green wire. BOTH have to be normal for EITHER pan or tilt to work.

2.) These are the most common slip ring problems I have seen myself or heard others discuss:
a.) A break in the wire, especially common at the metal edge of the slip ring casing.
b.) A short at the edge of the slip ring housing. (insulation gets cut by the edge of the slip ring casing)
c.) Wire broken at the solder joint of the contact plate
d.) Damaged wire insulation caused by using the short rubber dampers. (I have seen others report this.)

3.) You may have to unplug the lower connector and check for continuity. The failure occurring intermittently, especially after a calibration (lots of movement in a short time), suggests there may be a problem with the brushes inside the slip ring.

This drawing shows what each wire does (to the best of my knowledge). I thought it might help as you look at the wiring:
View attachment 18222

WTFDproject you´re a great help.

I will follow your advises and come back with the results. Be aware it will take some days, perhaps a week or even more.
Thanks again