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CGOET Thermal

My Dx9 does that also but the TH is not like regular RC set ups. It's quite proprietary. It's the video integration into their own platform that makes it unable to get along with regular DMX transmitter. My Chroma has a whole rig I built to handle tilt and pan on my Feiyu Tech mini gimbal and I can run everything of the Dx9. I use an Immersion RC transmitter and even got GoPro powered of the flight battery but I still have to carry another 7.4v battery to power the gimbal receiver and the voice telemetry data. It's exactly what I want it do as a flying camera but because it's on a Chroma it's just too shaky at unpredictable times for editing later. DJI offered all this during my learning curve but I never liked the flipped frequencies as I feel strongly that we should operate in the proper radio spectrums for both video and flight control.
The TH offered out of the box all that I attempted to make smooth and was so amazingly stable in video I just discharged the Chroma batteries and put it away. I'm still trying to figure out want to do with it but I honestly don't really like my old videos as the quality of the H is so much better I'm revisiting my best sites and reshooting.

I don't look at this as a normal RC at all. It's a specialized set up that's got enough of the standard radio sticks and behaviors to satisfy experienced RC users but intuitive enough for rookies though I always say start small first (dromidas, blades, Estes, whatever) and crash it, break it, loose it, fix it, cry over it, and do all you can do to train your brain to focus on flying first and make that second nature before you jump into full video and flight on any platform form Yuneec, DJI, 3Dr, Autel or whatever.

And let's not forget Christmas is coming and while we won't see Karma nightmares there are still lots of our ships sold at Best Buy to people who have never owned any multi rotors and they hit the sky dec 25!
As an inveterate modeller I fully understand and agree where you are coming from and how things are set up, however as a commercial business (Caledonia Drone Services) I do not have the time to build and fettle equipment as I used to do with my aircraft. It would be a big advantage to me to be able to hot-swap cameras if required. Regrettable in some ways but I have to embrace RTF equipment.
A good friend has followed almost the same course as yourself and I admire what he has done, but it has taken months to get to a completely reliable and stable system without any jello.
 
Hi all !

Do you know if cgoet is working with yuneec actionCam ? (And with cgo3 android application)
I would like to to know if CGOET is a good alternative to allow me to have good thermal camera usable with typhoon h (aerial outdoor usage) but also without typhoon (with actionCam) to do thermal diagnostic in buildings (indoor usage).

Thanks in advance !
 
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Sorry to repeat my post, but I would really like to know, if the st16 is set to imperial, will the camera read °F?
 
Hi all !

Do you know if cgoet is working with yuneec actionCam ? (And with cgo3 android application)
I would like to to know if CGOET is a good alternative to allow me to have good thermal camera usable with typhoon h (aerial outdoor usage) but also without typhoon (with actionCam) to do thermal diagnostic in buildings (indoor usage).

Thanks in advance !
Just tried to get it on the CGO3 app it will connect to the wifi but it's not recognised by the app.
 
Despite having 2 models set (one for CGO3 and the other for CGOET) , whenever cameras are swapped out, it has to be re-bound to the ST16.
It may be that Yuneec employed what others call "model memory", in that not only the model has to match, but the position number in the controller must match also.
Have you tried binding both the CGO3+ and the CGOET in the same model?
 
Has anyone had any problems since the last update with the flight control system crashing in the ST16 when you chose only the visible image. I get about 5 seconds of image in visible before the crash and when it reboots the image is pixilated until the ST16 is turned off and on again, no flying for me with the ET till I get this sorted with CS.

only tested on desktop so at least I didn't crash
 
Has anyone had any problems since the last update with the flight control system crashing in the ST16 when you chose only the visible image. I get about 5 seconds of image in visible before the crash and when it reboots the image is pixilated until the ST16 is turned off and on again, no flying for me with the ET till I get this sorted with CS.

only tested on desktop so at least I didn't crash
__________
I spoke to Yuneec TS this morning in the USA and they said they knew of the issue.
 
As an inveterate modeller I fully understand and agree where you are coming from and how things are set up, however as a commercial business (Caledonia Drone Services) I do not have the time to build and fettle equipment as I used to do with my aircraft. It would be a big advantage to me to be able to hot-swap cameras if required. Regrettable in some ways but I have to embrace RTF equipment.
A good friend has followed almost the same course as yourself and I admire what he has done, but it has taken months to get to a completely reliable and stable system without any jello.

I could not do it with the Chroma. That's why I like the H. My jello occurrences are few and far between.


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk Pro
 
Has anyone had any problems since the last update with the flight control system crashing in the ST16 when you chose only the visible image. I get about 5 seconds of image in visible before the crash and when it reboots the image is pixilated until the ST16 is turned off and on again, no flying for me with the ET till I get this sorted with CS.

only tested on desktop so at least I didn't crash

Had the same problem, I was running the latest firmware on everything but the transmitter version which was .24 after the update it is .25. Now the ST16 app doesn't crash.
 
Did the updates in UK on 24 12 2016.

Not tried yet but hoping for some nice weather and some free time to try it out.
Looking foward to it.
 
I upgraded my firmware in March 2017 to v 3.04 (EU)
Not had any real problems except that the control sticks don't seem to have any effect until pushed a certain amount and then the H seems to lurch.
Not too much of a problem as I know it's there and have adapted to it.
Seen in threads about " tinkering " with the controller settings but chickened out of that one.
In all I'm very pleased with my H.
My Brother has one too so I have a spare if I need it ( so does he )


Jim
 
I upgraded my firmware in March 2017 to v 3.04 (EU)
Not had any real problems except that the control sticks don't seem to have any effect until pushed a certain amount and then the H seems to lurch.
Not too much of a problem as I know it's there and have adapted to it.
Seen in threads about " tinkering " with the controller settings but chickened out of that one.
In all I'm very pleased with my H.
My Brother has one too so I have a spare if I need it ( so does he )


Jim


PLEASE: If your Typhoon is not flying smoothly, stop flying it until you've figured out why. There are enough people on here who crash because they keep on flying without recognising the warning signs that something is wrong.

Go to the Hardware Monitor screen (Settings -> Hardware Monitor) and check that when you move your sticks, the controls on the screen move smoothly. They should read 0 at center, and should go all the way from -100 to 100 for each stick (up, right, left, down).

If they do not, you have a dirty or broken pot on that stick. This can be serious as it may be an early sign that that stick will become completely unresponsive. You *should not* adjust anything to get round the issue. Clean the stick (use plastic-safe contact cleaner and waggle the stick around until it begins to respond again), or if you cannot get it back to normal, get it replaced. It's only a few bucks and could save you a lot of damage.

Fly safe!
 
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Thanks Tuna.

Checked the controls. Smooth as a baby's backside !
Gently up & down 1% at a time.
I probably didn't explain correctly before.
It's only slight but if I push the sticks VERY gently nothing happens.
I have to push a bit further and then the H kicks into action.
It's just that I'm sure it was smoother before I upgraded the firmware.
Apart from that. No issues.

Thanks again.


Jim
 
Thanks Tuna.

Checked the controls. Smooth as a baby's backside !
Gently up & down 1% at a time.
I probably didn't explain correctly before.
It's only slight but if I push the sticks VERY gently nothing happens.
I have to push a bit further and then the H kicks into action.
It's just that I'm sure it was smoother before I upgraded the firmware.
Apart from that. No issues.

Thanks again.


Jim

Excellent! Sorry for pouncing on you, but we seem to have had a rash of crashes lately where it's fairly clear the owner had pretty much just thrown it in the air without figuring out how it worked or how to fly it first.

It looks like you've got enough experience to be noticing some of the more subtle stuff - and yes, the different firmwares do seem to change the responsiveness. I gather they constantly tune it in response to their own testing and looking at the way owners fly it (and when they crash it!). The aim is to keep it smooth and responsive without drifting or unexpected movement, but it's got to be set up for both complete beginners and expert pilots so it's always going to be a bit of a compromise.
 
I get the software is old warning on the CGO ET camera and then it eventually it binds and works fine. I have the latest update from Yuneec, am I missing something???
 
I get that warning when I connect to the camera with the camera selected to the CGO3+ When I swap out cameras, I do the following: 1) switch the model from the H to the H thermal (I made a copy of the H model and this way I retain my binds) 2) select the proper camera. 3) turn on the H. Then when it connects everything works as its supposed to.

edit- I stand corrected here, when you do this, it appears to bind correctly, however I couldn't use the H without rebinding. You gotta rebind when you switch cameras.
 
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