Check for geomagnetics interferences
- Thread starter Anthony from France
- Start date
The screws should require a 1.5mm hex key and there are 10 of them. Once the screws are removed leave the arms in the unlatched position and at the arm openings press in on the top shell and pull out on the bottom shell to unlatch the small plastic clips on each side of the arm openings. Then unplug the GPS from the Mainboard and mark the connector it was plugged into (or take a photo before disconnecting).
Pack the top cover with GPS module so it can’t be crushed during shipping.
Anxious to hear if this works.
Thanks DoomMeister for these clarifications, I found the right tools to remove the screws, but I have not started yet, I am waiting before the call of the person to whom I must send it to have the price, the deadline and address; he must have forgotten me today, I'll try to contact him again tomorrow because in France it's starting to get a bit late. I will keep you posted.
Salut Antony, Steeve est de bon conseils et quand j'ai un souci je fait aussi appel a ses services.
Concernant la magnétisation/démagnétisation ça peut arriver si tu stocke le drone a coté de haut-parleurs ou que tu le transporte dans la voiture
prés du système audio.
Hi Antony, Steve is good advice and when I have a problem I also call on his services.
Regarding magnetization / demagnetization it can happen if you store the drone next to speakers or if you transport it in the car
near the audio system.
Concernant les problèmes géomagnétiques j'utilise cette application gratuite, simple et fiable => Solar Activity Monitor (SAM) – Applications sur Google Play
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Hello everyone; I received my demagnetized compass today. Unfortunately my problem is not solved. I did a first calibration of the compass, I had again the message "check for geom. interf" and when I wanted to start the motors again the beeps and the red flash announcing a calibration problem. So I redid a calibration and there the message no longer appeared during the calibration, I believed it... But unfortunately it was impossible to start the motors as before (beeps and red flashes); I did it a 3rd time, same thing as the 2nd... I tell myself one thing and I would like to know what you think: The red flashes announce a calibration fault; is it necessarily the calibration of the compass? Because I remember that at the beginning of my worries I had a problem with my remote control which did not turn on correctly the first time and that I then had a problem with the image feedback, which was not displayed correctly or distorted. I saw in the hidden calibration menu that there was "rc calibration", I clicked on it and I have test buttons, in doubt I did not want to go further. But wouldn't these red flashes rather indicate a problem with the calibration of the radio control, gyro, accelerometer or other...? Why not the radio control.... Have you already tested this RC calibration function? Am I likely to create more problems than there are already? If you have any information on this, I am at your disposal... Thank you in advance.
Anthony
Anthony
Did you remove the GPS board from the top cover when you sent it to be demagnetized? If so, did you place it back in the same orientation? The wires should be toward the rear of the cover.
When doing the compass calibration have you ever been able to complete it successfully (all motor LED’s green) or do you always get the red flashing motor LED’s when performing the calibration?
When doing the compass calibration have you ever been able to complete it successfully (all motor LED’s green) or do you always get the red flashing motor LED’s when performing the calibration?
Hello DoomMeister. I did not remove the GPS card from the cover and found that it was not upside down following the intervention. As I wrote on my previous comments, the calibration always flashes green at the end; only when I want to start the motors does it flash red. That's why I tell myself that it may be a calibration other than that of the compass that is the problem... I thought maybe the RC calibration since there were failures at this level
when returning to service after the winter...
I was not aware of this possibility of history; I will take a look at this and get back to you very soon. Thanks, that could actually be very useful.
I am starting to suspect it may be a failed IMU calibration during aircraft initialization.
Start up the ST16S with the mode switch set to Angle mode and then power on the aircraft after the ST16S is fully booted. Observe the sequence of the motor LED’s and report all the color and flashing combinations.
Also check the area where you select the compass calibration and see if there is one for the IMU or accelerometers.
Start up the ST16S with the mode switch set to Angle mode and then power on the aircraft after the ST16S is fully booted. Observe the sequence of the motor LED’s and report all the color and flashing combinations.
Also check the area where you select the compass calibration and see if there is one for the IMU or accelerometers.
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I just looked, with each attempt to start the motors, I have the message in the history: "NOT ARMING: one or more RC sticks not centered"
It sounds like you will need to clean the Stick Potentiometers.
You can check the "RC Monitor" to see which sticks need cleaning, but it's best to clean all of them anyway. You may be able to clear the problem just by vigorous stirring of the sticks, but more likely you will need to actually clean the sticks.
This video by @Steve Carr shows how to check the "RC Monitor". (H3 is the same as HPlus).
This video shows a way to spray in some contact cleaner without removing the rear cover. It is often effective and may clear the problem:
If needed, the first 3 minutes of this video shows how to remove the back of the controller:
This document by @DoomMeister shows general maintenance points for the gimbals, including a mention of the small hole to spray in some plastic safe contact cleaner:
Dropbox
www.dropbox.com
Please let us know if cleaning the sticks works, and we can work from there.
Note it is not recommended to use the stick calibration procedure to clear the problem. The stick calibration procedure may temporarily mask the issue and make it appear the problem is resolved, but the problem may re-appear at any time. Including during a flight which can cause serious control problems.
I have (I had until yesterday, it could come back) also the messages in red in the history during the calibrations of the compass "Check for geom. interf."
The stick issue and the geomatic interference issues are not related. There is hope the Geomatic issue may have been resolved, or at least mitigated, by your earlier actions. Once the sticks are performing normally, we can better address any remaining issues.
Ok, thank you very much for this information, I will look at it tomorrow, because in France, it is evening... In fact, I must have had 2 problems, the magnetization problem of the compass (I will do a calibration anyway tomorrow to see if it gives me the message) but also and especially this problem of sticks; besides, I don't understand why, I handle them with care, I'm very careful when I put away my RC, it's weird... I see all that tomorrow and I'll let you know. Really thank you, you are all very good advice and very helpful.
Degradation of the potentiometer sliding surface is not related to or affected by your care for the device.
Do you mean you see no response in "RC Monitor" when you move the sticks? If so, it may indicate a firmware problem that has been seen a few times before.
I just looked in RC monitor, I actually have a problem in J4 which is very slow and does not exceed 50 or -50; no problem with J1, J2 and J3
I would advise opening the back and cleaning with the stick gimbal removed from the ST16S. This could also be an issue with the connectors for the wiring harness of the gimbal so removing, spraying with plastic safe contact cleaner, and reinstalling may help.
The stick gimbals are identical and can be swapped with each other so if cleaning does not make any improvement swapping them will help isolate the problem to the gimbal or the circuitry.
