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Chroma Problems (binding)

Pulled a board out, unplugged the IMU, and got the same thing. Four white blinking, one solid beside the red (red off). Could be something other than the IMU on your board, but your board is not initializing correctly.

Do you still have your old Chroma Main Board? And its IMU module?

By the way, "FC board" usually refers to the controlling board inside the ST10+. I'm pretty sure we are both talking about the Mainboard inside the Chroma, but wanted to make sure.
OK I'll stick to main BOARD.
This the old BOARD I'm using for this, it's IMU is in the Chroma, no IMU on this board.
Will have to dismantle Chroma to do this.
Did this procedure make a sick BOARD well again?
I will take a little more time than you to get the IMU + BOARD out of the bird.

Maybe this is the root cause of all this, same IMU for both !

Proceed yes or no??
 
It might be sick, but it doesn't sound dead. And if the other board behaves the same with IMU plugged in and when unplugged, it would really be cause for concern about that IMU.

Proceed yes or no? YES. Most definitely. This is the brightest hope we have seen yet.
 
Did you pull boards out because your bird was not flying?
I wonder if 'known to be good IMUs ' are available for purchase if the need arises??
 
No. Both my Chromas fly perfectly. I've been fortunate with both of them. One is a salvaged wreck and not real pretty to look at, but it flies like a champ.

I've seen IMU modules on eBay, but I think they sell for about $50.00 or so new. I'll go look around while you are pulling the board out of the Chroma.
 
Found lots of them (BLH8601) on line, but most only list shipping to US. There is a used one in Florida, USA, and you might be able to contact the seller and arrange for international shipping

Horizon Hobbies lists it new for $49.99 USD, and they have international shipping. I don't know how fast, or how expensive.

It's a long shot, but @Haydn might be able to get one. It sells under the "Blade" name, but it is a Yuneec product.
 
No. Both my Chromas fly perfectly. I've been fortunate with both of them. One is a salvaged wreck and not real pretty to look at, but it flies like a champ.

I've seen IMU modules on eBay, but I think they sell for about $50.00 or so new. I'll go look around while you are pulling the board out of the Chroma.
IMU out and in old BOARD.
6 lights.
4 white flashing
1white adjacent to RED no flash.
No beeps.
Next ?
 
Here is what I see on mine:

IMU NOT plugged in:
5 total LIT.
4 white flashing
1 White solid
Red - OFF

IMU plugged in (normal):
Again, 5 total LIT
4 white flashing
1 red solid
White beside red OFF.
 
Sounds like the IMU is normal. Oh well, it was a good hope, but I think we are still looking elsewhere.

I went back through some of our earlier threads and PM. I noticed in one, you mentioned putting a new FC board in your ST-10+. There is a "secret" menu on the ST10, and one of it's features is an actual FC board calibration (not hardware monitor). Did you ever run the actual calibration after you installed that Controller FC board?
 
Sounds like the IMU is normal. Oh well, it was a good hope, but I think we are still looking elsewhere.

I went back through some of our earlier threads and PM. I noticed in one, you mentioned putting a new FC board in your ST-10+. There is a "secret" menu on the ST10, and one of it's features is an actual FC board calibration (not hardware monitor). Did you ever run the actual calibration after you installed that Controller FC board?
No. Not in ST 10 but in Chroma.
Should not have said FC but Main BOARD as it turns out? h
 
OK. That leaves us in the dark.
One last possibility would be to bind your ST10 to another drone. Is the typhoon H the only other bird you have available?
 
OK. That leaves us in the dark.
One last possibility would be to bind your ST10 to another drone. Is the typhoon H the only other bird you have available?
Yes only the H.
Awaiting a battery charger, should.be here today sometime.
Got a PS3 but it don't talk Yuneec.
 
The only thing I can think of at this point is to find a known good ST10+ and see what happens.

Now that you know exactly where the lights are and what they look like, it would also be a good idea to check them one more time when the bird is reassembled.

By the way, the ST10+ will probably bind to your TH using a Q500 model, but I don't know if it will confuse or corrupt any of the sensitive programming of the Th. That would probably NOT be a good idea. If someone has done it and can comment on it, the comments would be welcome. Otherwise, I would say don't try to do that.
 
The only thing I can think of at this point is to find a known good ST10+ and see what happens.

Now that you know exactly where the lights are and what they look like, it would also be a good idea to check them one more time when the bird is reassembled.

By the way, the ST10+ will probably bind to your TH using a Q500 model, but I don't know if it will confuse or corrupt any of the sensitive programming of the Th. That would probably NOT be a good idea. If someone has done it and can comment on it, the comments would be welcome. Otherwise, I would say don't try to do that.
Yep stay away from the H.
Contact HAYDN and ask is his ST 10+ his good to go and can I try, if so $ will change hands if the price is right.

A last resort of mine was to fit another brand mainboard/Rx/Tx to the Chroma body and fly it. I started out building UAVs so any Port in a storm.
I'll try HAYDN 1st.
Stay in touch.
 
I will.

Way back in our conversation, there was a drawing with the receiver connections, listed by wire function. That might be of help if you go with an alternate setup.

You might also check to see what shipping would cost to east coast US. Probably to expensive and too slow to be practical, but it may be more reasonable than I suspect.

Good luck to you.
 
I will.

Way back in our conversation, there was a drawing with the receiver connections, listed by wire function. That might be of help if you go with an alternate setup.

You might also check to see what shipping would cost to east coast US. Probably to expensive and too slow to be practical, but it may be more reasonable than I suspect.

Good luck to you.
Thanks Tom, never to old to learn.
Will talk soon.
Cheers for now?
 

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