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Does anyone use the left trim key to select the white balance?

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The left trim key, up/down is for EV adjustment, I think it's very helpful.
However, the left/right is for white balance adjustment, actually it's not easy for user to set white balance value exactly with selection list. With my experiences on traditional camera, I use white balance shift( to get prefer color style.

How do you think about it? Appreciate for any input.
 
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I set the WB and EV as close as I can using the standard options making sure I don't blow out the highlights. Fine tuning I leave for post processing of stills and video. My personal opinion is that I cannot rely on the ST16 for accurate depiction of the what the output actually looks like. My calibrated computer monitor is far, far better at that.
 
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@LinsonW
I leave the EV alone,
First while the: "Tilt Mode is toggled in the V position" (camera tilts up 15°). I then set WB, then manually adjust the shutter and ISO.
As I'm flying I will adjust shutter speed as needed.
The auto function of the camera I leave in gorgeous mode.
Agree with @rddrone on post production.
 
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I normally never use the left trim pad for camera control, and of the two functions it covers - white balance is the one thing I think is the least useful. Typically I will 'Lock' WB at the beginning of a flight till the end. However a few weeks ago I was shooting some evening footage for a new video, the sun was setting and I wanted to do a straight flight towards the setting sun. My plan was to make two identical runs with the camera pointed ahead and level. I wanted to make the first run with the exposure set a little low to capture the amazing sky and clouds, then return to the starting point and I adjusted the exposure slightly high to capture the terrain. I was able to achieve both shots and got the results I was after but this was a case where the trim pad function of both cruise and camera control would have come in handy.
 
By the way, the slider to tilt the camera is way, way, way to sensitive, even though I've made adjustments to slow it down.
This has nothing to do with this post, but hey it involves the camera.;)
 
Same as Ty Pilot. I set the white balance as part of the pre-flight and then I don't touch it again. The only thing I change in flight is exposure.
 
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Same as Ty Pilot. I set the white balance as part of the pre-flight and then I don't touch it again. The only thing I change in flight is exposure.

I do the same as you guys. One minor difference is I often set EV prior to take off about one step darker as we learn from experience what is viewed on the ST16 screen is always brighter than what is delivered to the SD card.
 
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By the way, the slider to tilt the camera is way, way, way to sensitive, even though I've made adjustments to slow it down.
This has nothing to do with this post, but hey it involves the camera.;)
expo curve can help it, LOL
 
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I have also ruined many recordings, my fingers gets in the way of the slider, or is it the slider is in the way of my fingers?:oops:
 
I had my expo curve already set at10, so I bumped it up to 20, nothing else in between, where is 15??
 
To all:
If your comments disappear in this thread or elsewhere it is because they were off topic and irrelevant to the title of the thread.
 
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Have not heard anyone mention the Histogram. I apply setting in pre-flight and use the Histogram as a guide. Works well.
 
Steve,

Rather than re-inventing the wheel, Ed Ricker does an excellent job of explaining the Histogram in the below video.
Adding to his video, I can say that if for example I was shooting the shot in his video with an extremely blown out sky, I would darken it to show details in the sky as in his example, then bring up the shadows in post to show the detail in the trees. It is all subjective to each person, what I like may not be what you like.

Another option when shooting landscape or scenes with bright skies is to use a graduated filter that darkens the sky only. Polar Pro sells these filters.


Here are videos from Captain Drone from 2016. Excellent videos on Histogram, Exposures, Settings, Metering, etc for the Typhoon H. I recommend watching them. Great Knowledge for all.



 
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......with an extremely blown out sky, I would darken it to show details in the sky as in his example, then bring up the shadows in post.........

Video or stills.....if forced to choose, always shoot on the dark side. You can usually pull up details from the dark, but you’ll never get anything from blown out. Once blown out, it’s gone.
 
Video or stills.....if forced to choose, always shoot on the dark side. You can usually pull up details from the dark, but you’ll never get anything from blown out. Once blown out, it’s gone.

If it's not blown out too badly, there is a trick I learned on the Sony Vegas forum. In Vegas (now owned by Magix) load the clip onto the time line. Add the following special effects to the clip: Invert color, color corrector, Invert Color in that order. In the color corrector, increase the Gamma. You sometimes can find a little of the blown-out detail.

Your non-linear editor may use different names for the functions, but that's the idea.
 
I know the tutorials are a couple of years old for the most part but I'm wondering where the additional features outlined in the second video went. I purchased a Typhoon H Pro with Real Sense about a year ago. Some of the features especially the pan and RAW video features would be useful in my business but I don't find them in my drones options. Have they been deleted or is there another camera version I should download???
 

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