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Drone won't turn on

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This afternoon I went to fly my q500 and the drone wouldn't turn on. Fully charged battery, and I had already successfully flown it this morning without crashing. The drone had been crashed a few times but had only seemed to effect it cosmetically. I was wondering if anybody could help me trouble shoot this issue. Thanks!
 
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No power at all ??
Could be a number of things...
The switch might have died or wiring inside may have come off.
Yeah absolutely no power, Took it apart, wiring looks good but I don't really know what to look for, all connections looked to be solid. Any way to check and see if it's the switch?
 
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Do you have a volt meter ? I'm guessing not.
Makes it kinda hard to test much.
If your sure the battery is good, it has to be something in the Q and the switch is a known weak link.
 
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Do you have a volt meter ? I'm guessing not.
Makes it kinda hard to test much.
If your sure the battery is good, it has to be something in the Q and the switch is a known weak link.
I do actually, what points should I test?
 
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Inside the battery door. Do you have a connector that is unconnected. Depending how old the quad is. There was an update to the GUI plug later in 2016 that you did not have to unplug it. Mine has the one that you have to unplug to connect the gui plug to it. If that was not connected and it should have been then you would be dead in the water.
 
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Inside the battery door. Do you have a connector that is unconnected. Depending how old the quad is. There was an update to the GUI plug later in 2016 that you did not have to unplug it. Mine has the one that you have to unplug to connect the gui plug to it. If that was not connected and it should have been then you would be dead in the water.
My GUI port thing is just a loose cord that isn't plugged into anything usually if that is what you are asking?
 

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If you have the shell apart, put a battery in and try the power again. The on-off slider has been known to come off the switch. If it still doesn't work, set the voltmeter to 20 or 50 DC volts and put the black lead on the black lead of the battery terminal. Then put the red lead on each side of the switch to see if there is power to that point.
 
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If you have the shell apart, put a battery in and try the power again. The on-off slider has been known to come off the switch. If it still doesn't work, set the voltmeter to 20 or 50 DC volts and put the black lead on the black lead of the battery terminal. Then put the red lead on each side of the switch to see if there is power to that point.
Thank you, I will test it in the morning. If it is the switch like most have suggested, can the individual switch be replaced, or does the whole control board need to be replaced?
 

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If, in fact, the switch doesn't work, I would get some electrical contact cleaner (the kind that says safe for plastic) and spray the switch while continuously moving it on and off.
The switch should show power on both contacts when in the on position and power only on one side when in the off position.
I can't remember if the switch is replaceable by itself or not. It's been over a year since I looked inside. Maybe I have some old pics.

Don't spay cleaner on the switch with the battery installed.
 
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Again, look at the slider to see if it is engaging the switch. In other words, when moving the slider, it actually moves the switch.
 
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Again, look at the slider to see if it is engaging the switch. In other words, when moving the slider, it actually moves the switch.
Thank you for the contact cleaner tip, I don't think I would have come across that, I know for sure it's not the slider(I took it right off). I'll test it with the voltage meter tomorrow and try and determine if it is the switch
 
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Depending on your meter you can may have a continuity setting, in that mode when you touch both leads together the meter beeps. Make sure there is not a battery or power source, then connect both leads to switch and see if there is continuity through the switch in one position and no continuity in the other. That can help in determining if the switch is good. Best of luck.
 
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If, in fact, the switch doesn't work, I would get some electrical contact cleaner (the kind that says safe for plastic) and spray the switch while continuously moving it on and off.
The switch should show power on both contacts when in the on position and power only on one side when in the off position.
I can't remember if the switch is replaceable by itself or not. It's been over a year since I looked inside. Maybe I have some old pics.

Don't spay cleaner on the switch with the battery installed.
Tried the conduct cleaner, didn't seem to help:(
 
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Depending on your meter you can may have a continuity setting, in that mode when you touch both leads together the meter beeps. Make sure there is not a battery or power source, then connect both leads to switch and see if there is continuity through the switch in one position and no continuity in the other. That can help in determining if the switch is good. Best of luck.
Tested it and the continuity was 0.00 in both on and off positions
 
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Tested it and the continuity was 0.00 in both on and off positions
Alright, sounds like you have a bad switch. I am not sure how comfortable you are with electronics, but if you can access the switch with battery in, you can take a jumper wire and touch both sides of the switch to 100% verify. The drone should fire up once contact is made on both sides. Again, this is only if you are comfortable with doing this. Others care to chime in?

To confirm, when set in continuity mode and you touched the 2 leads together did it beep?
 
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Alright, sounds like you have a bad switch. I am not sure how comfortable you are with electronics, but if you can access the switch with battery in, you can take a jumper wire and touch both sides of the switch to 100% verify. The drone should fire up once contact is made on both sides. Again, this is only if you are comfortable with doing this. Others care to chime in?

To confirm, when set in continuity mode and you touched the 2 leads together did it beep?
Yea, I also to verify what pins should I put the leads on
 
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Can you post a pic of the switch? Could be that something else is shorted out that caused the switch to go bad.
Sent a few photos of the whole thing, I'm still not positive if I am using the multimeter correct. Im guessing its an internal thing with the switch, or I fried some component or something
 

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