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E90 Lens Distortion - Who has the problem and when did you buy your E90 camera?

I was also thinking sun which in turn means the quality of glass Yuneec uses is very poor. This has caused issues on a few of my jobs I take 2 pictures at a time
It also does it during video capture
Is anyone looking at doing something different inspire 2 or anything?

I, too, have captured that image from a video shot that almost cost me the drone and in the end it was of no use to me. The best shot by far, over the water, between trees, curvy route, following the riverbed and unfortunately for nothing. It will be a matter of taking the problem into account and using the right filter.
 
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is it not prop shadow?
No its like light reflection off a poor quality lens
I do get prop shaddow on high speed forward
This is straight, its like the difference between tasco and Vortex glass
I am amazed that yuneec has such low quality glass for such an expensive camera
 
What I'm having a hard time doing is figuring out the filter level to put in. I don't know how to figure it out. Using a luxmeter, I imagine. But know the correlation with the correct filter?

This is the way I look at it though I am far from an expert:
Well, you could use a light meter:
Decide what aperture you wish to shoot at, which will normally be constant for a consistent look. (Lets say) F5.6
Set your light meter for (let's say) 25 fps and 500 ISO and your lightmeter will tell you that perhaps you need to be at F 22, but you want to be at F 5.6
F22 to F 5.6 is F22, F16, F11, F 8, F 5.6 - 4 stops, therefore you want a 4 stop ND filter.

Or another example without light meter.
Your camera is set at 25fps at 1/50 and you want to use aperture of say F8 but testing camera on the ground means using ISO 6400 to enable this and you want to be no greater than ISO400
6400 to 400 is 6400, 3200, 1600, 800, 400 or 4 stops so use a 4 stop filter.
Of course when you get in the air the light will change depending on your position so you will need to vary ISO (or Aperture with the risk of a different look) to allow for this.
 
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This is the way I look at it though I am far from an expert:
Well, you could use a light meter:
Decide what aperture you wish to shoot at, which will normally be constant for a consistent look. (Lets say) F5.6
Set your light meter for (let's say) 25 fps and 500 ISO and your lightmeter will tell you that perhaps you need to be at F 22, but you want to be at F 5.6
F22 to F 5.6 is F22, F16, F11, F 8, F 5.6 - 4 stops, therefore you want a 4 stop ND filter.

Or another example without light meter.
Your camera is set at 25fps at 1/50 and you want to use aperture of say F8 but testing camera on the ground means using ISO 6400 to enable this and you want to be no greater than ISO400
6400 to 400 is 6400, 3200, 1600, 800, 400 or 4 stops so use a 4 stop filter.
Of course when you get in the air the light will change depending on your position so you will need to vary ISO (or Aperture with the risk of a different look) to allow for this.

That is the problem we have, that we either do it by eye or we have to go up and down the drone several times. The light is not the same on land as in the sky and that without taking into account that if the shot is made with turns, the conditions change again. Considering all this and the constant rush for limited flight times, I'm still more attracted to the idea of a lens hood. Seems like the simplest solution to this situation :cool:
 
That is the problem we have, that we either do it by eye or we have to go up and down the drone several times. The light is not the same on land as in the sky and that without taking into account that if the shot is made with turns, the conditions change again. Considering all this and the constant rush for limited flight times, I'm still more attracted to the idea of a lens hood. Seems like the simplest solution to this situation :cool:
Used to get the problem a lot with the gopro camera and you could get around the problem with an ND Filter to slow the shutter speed down. A lens hood should also help by reducing the angle where the sun position causes the problem. Also had the same issue with the CGO3+ on the H480 and the E90 on the H520, ND Filter definetly helps.
 
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That is the problem we have, that we either do it by eye or we have to go up and down the drone several times. The light is not the same on land as in the sky and that without taking into account that if the shot is made with turns, the conditions change again. Considering all this and the constant rush for limited flight times, I'm still more attracted to the idea of a lens hood. Seems like the simplest solution to this situation :cool:
Well, as aerial photographers we rarely need to worry about needing shallow depth of field, So that gives us some flexibility in our aperture and of course our ISO. Aperture presumably we want a good depth of field so what maybe F 8 to F16? That gives us 2 stops of adjustment straight away. We can realistically use ISO of what I don't have the E90 or H520 but lets say 200 - 800? Perhaps 1600 at a push? Well that gives us 2 to 3 stops of further adjustment.
So w only have to get reasonably close with our choice of ND, experience will improve this choice no doubt but we can adjust our settings on the fly.
 
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Well, as aerial photographers we rarely need to worry about needing shallow depth of field, So that gives us some flexibility in our aperture and of course our ISO. Aperture presumably we want a good depth of field so what maybe F 8 to F16? That gives us 2 stops of adjustment straight away. We can realistically use ISO of what I don't have the E90 or H520 but lets say 200 - 800? Perhaps 1600 at a push? Well that gives us 2 to 3 stops of further adjustment.
So w only have to get reasonably close with our choice of ND, experience will improve this choice no doubt but we can adjust our settings on the fly.
That is definitely shadows from the props, classic problem as the shutter speed is too high. Solution as others have said is ND filter, at least a ND4. Also you can shoot in manual and adjust shutter speed. Avoid flying into sun or when sun is high, also as said hood will help. But I have been flying an E90 since it came out on auto with no prob using the ND filter.
 
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That is definitely shadows from the props, classic problem as the shutter speed is too high. Solution as others have said is ND filter, at least a ND4. Also you can shoot in manual and adjust shutter speed. Avoid flying into sun or when sun is high, also as said hood will help. But I have been flying an E90 since it came out on auto with no prob using the ND filter.

I'm sorry to tell you that in my case that's not possible, the sun in front and high and the speed very slow, it can't be the shadow of the propellers. I had to accelerate the speed of all the shots to 300% because otherwise they were too slow. I only got the propellers in the pictures during Easter, when the H520 was fighting in winds of 60km/h. Normally I fly slowly so that the shots come out soft, otherwise they don't look good.

Note: the propellers sure aren't, but can it be the shadows of the propellers?
 
Shadows of props due to too high a shutter speed. And if the hex was dipping in the wind that would add to the problem.
 
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Shadows of props due to too high a shutter speed. And if the hex was dipping in the wind that would add to the problem.

In this case there was no wind, but I hadn't thought about the shadows. I'm going to go over the whole shot to see if I can confirm or rule out shadows, that image is taken from a video shot o_O
 
I'm sorry to tell you that in my case that's not possible, the sun in front and high and the speed very slow, it can't be the shadow of the propellers. I had to accelerate the speed of all the shots to 300% because otherwise they were too slow. I only got the propellers in the pictures during Easter, when the H520 was fighting in winds of 60km/h. Normally I fly slowly so that the shots come out soft, otherwise they don't look good.

Note: the propellers sure aren't, but can it be the shadows of the propellers?
It's as Koala said above, and is not uncommon in aerial shots from drones. At a given shutter speed, the shadow of the props will create a strobe effect on the lens. Filters are generally used to reduce/eliminate the effect or adjust film speed.
 
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I'm uploading the sequence to youtube, in a while this upload will be ready for all of us to watch.

Note: in 10 minutes

The position of the sun is sensed almost at the top left corner.


Note2: Sorry, my connection is worse than the bad guy's horse in a western :(
 
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No doubt you're both right. It occurred to me to watch, just to remember, a video that I hung for testing 3 years ago in the inaugural flight of one of my DIY birds, and it is clear that it is the same effect. The difference is that you can clearly see the propellers.

It's okay to remove doubts like these, ND filters in mind in these circumstances. I was more concerned that there were 4 peregrine falcons all the time circling over the drone :eek:

Thank you guys :)
 
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