H920+ Service/Repair Manual

[FLDirector19]

Thanks for the photos! I can’t really tell any circuit traces from the photos. This circuit is a lot more active than most LED indicators as seen by the driver IC’s and the coils. In the photo of the circuitry side the left driver appears as though it may have debris on it or it is damaged.

Since there is this much circuitry my instinct tells me the power is on the black and white wires and the color select are the red, orange, and yellow wires.

I will try and get a schematic or info on the FCO pinout to be able to test this.

This link appears to be like the LED itself with six leads. LED RGB 9W 6-Pin - ProtoSupplies

I have feelers out for more information. When I get back from golf today I will generate a diagram and troubleshooting steps to at least test the LED itself.

Thanks!!

I agree that there appears to be damage on the left side. If this is damage from overheating, is it possible that the FCO is damaged, as well?

How would I go about changing the LED on the circuit board?

 

[DoomMeister]

I don’t think the six legged LED unit is bad. The driver may be bad from being plugged into the wrong socket on the FCO. Gotta go check if I have any response on my request for more information.

 

[FLDirector19]

I don’t think the six legged LED unit is bad. The driver may be bad from being plugged into the wrong socket on the FCO. Gotta go check if I have any response on my request for more information.

Good afternoon, DM!
Any luck on finding how to test the LED & FCO?
If the LED has suffered heat damage, would it be more likely that the FCO was damaged, causing the LED damage or vice versa? I’ve ordered a new FCO, however, I don’t want to replace it if the LED initiated the damage to the FCO.

Thoughts?

 

[DoomMeister]

You can test the FCO without having the Status LED assembly plugged in you just won’t have feedback from it.

Nothing on my request for more information on the LED assembly and FCO.

 

[DoomMeister]

Try attaching wire to a regular 1.5V battery and testing the LED itself. The positive and negative leads are arranged in this pattern (although there is nothing on the front side to denote which side is + and -). One way should cause each color to light up and the opposite polarity will not. If one battery doesn’t cause any of the three to light up try two in series to get 3V and try again.

Can you get a better photo of the circuitry side of the LED assembly? Does the one component look burned or is it just some gunk on the component?

Also, did you buy the 920+ from a private seller or from a business that refurbs them? It is weird that the LED and GPS were plugged into the wrong sockets on the FCO.

 

[Vaklin]

920+ is a Yuneec Europe product, based on 480H. Because the both are discontinued forever, has a reason to ask for some inside information from these guys. Some progressive German guy, who is about this workshop, can ask them. No reason to ask from abroad. The chance to get nothing is very big.

Cultural differences. What we can do?

 

[FLDirector19]

You can test the FCO without having the Status LED assembly plugged in you just won’t have feedback from it.

Nothing on my request for more information on the LED assembly and FCO.

If, in fact the FC0 is bad, what are the chances the damage came from the mother board, as opposed to burning itself out?
I have a new FC0 to install, but would like to be certain there isn’t another problem up the line that could damage this one as well.

 

[WTFDproject]

If, in fact the FC0 is bad, what are the chances the damage came from the mother board, as opposed to burning itself out?
I have a new FC0 to install, but would like to be certain there isn’t another problem up the line that could damage this one as well.

You are missing a great chance to find out with fairly low risk. Leave the original FCO installed. Leave the LED unplugged. Ensure GPS is plugged in the correct socket. Ensure propellors are removed. Then start the controller, the H920 and see if you can bind them. If the drone will operate (other than no LED displayed), you will know both the original FCO and Mainboard are healthy. If not, take good notes on what happens and post them here. The worst case could be bad, or course. That's why its called a risk. But if you've already powered it up since purchase, the risk seems pretty low that the result will be any worse than things just don't work.
If you are not willing to do that, any speculation we might provide would be only that. Speculation. If you are not willing to test with either the original equipment or with the replacement equipment you will need to send the unit to a repair center for evaluation. There are simply too many possible conditions to make any guesses without some information. Information will either come from taking a risk, or sending it to someone who has test equipment. Or will take the same risk as is available to you. Except they will charge you for it.

 

[FLDirector19]

You are missing a great chance to find out with fairly low risk. Leave the original FCO installed. Leave the LED unplugged. Ensure GPS is plugged in the correct socket. Ensure propellors are removed. Then start the controller, the H920 and see if you can bind them. If the drone will operate (other than no LED displayed), you will know both the original FCO and Mainboard are healthy. If not, take good notes on what happens and post them here. The worst case could be bad, or course. That's why its called a risk. But if you've already powered it up since purchase, the risk seems pretty low that the result will be any worse than things just don't work.
If you are not willing to do that, any speculation we might provide would be only that. Speculation. If you are not willing to test with either the original equipment or with the replacement equipment you will need to send the unit to a repair center for evaluation. There are simply too many possible conditions to make any guesses without some information. Information will either come from taking a risk, or sending it to someone who has test equipment. Or will take the same risk as is available to you. Except they will charge you for it.

Thanks! I’ll try that tomorrow & post results.

 

[FLDirector19]

Thanks! I’ll try that tomorrow & post results.

Well… here’s the scoop..

I left the original FC0 in place, disconnected the LED, and plugged the gps into the proper socket. Then I started the ST16, then the H920+. Nothing happened.
Next I took a 3v battery source and ran it across several leads of the LED, and had bright color (R/B/G).

I replaced the FC0 with a new one, this time I added the LED. Started the ST16, then the H920+. The LED flashed white, red, blue and green continually. Never went to a solid color. All the while, the ST16 showed nothing under aircraft, nor camera.

Suggestions?

 

[DoomMeister]

You need to create a new model then place the aircraft in bind mode by tilting it forward 45 degrees or more a couple of times. The LED will flash orange rapidly (5X/sec). Open System Settings, Bind, and select refresh. You should get SR24_xxxxxx in the aircraft column and YUN_xxxxxx under the camera column. Select both and then the Bind button.

The following video is for the H480, but the procedure is the same except for selecting the H920 as model type when creating a new model and selecting CGO4 as the camera type in the camera selection menu.

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[FLDirector19]

You need to create a new model then place the aircraft in bind mode by tilting it forward 45 degrees or more a couple of times. The LED will flash orange rapidly (5X/sec). Open System Settings, Bind, and select refresh. You should get SR24_xxxxxx in the aircraft column and YUN_xxxxxx under the camera column. Select both and then the Bind button.

The following video is for the H480, but the procedure is the same except for selecting the H920 as model type when creating a new model and selecting CGO4 as the camera type in the camera selection menu.

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I created a new aircraft copy and proceeded as you suggest, by tilting the H920+ forward at a 45 degree angle, first twice, then paused to see if the LED changed to orange. When they didn’t, I tilted it a few more times… still not orange, only a sequence of white and the three colors, sequentially.

 

[FLDirector19]

I created a new aircraft copy and proceeded as you suggest, by tilting the H920+ forward at a 45 degree angle, first twice, then paused to see if the LED changed to orange. When they didn’t, I tilted it a few more times… still not orange, only a sequence of white and the three colors, sequentially.

Is it possible the ESU is bad. How can I test it?

 

[DoomMeister]

Hopefully the Top cover is still off. If you refer to the 3rd image in post #6 you will see the SR24 module on the lower right. That should have an LED on it (usually orange blinking ~1/sec). When you tilt the aircraft to place it in bind mode the LED on the SR24 should start blinking faster (~2/sec) and the status LED should start blinking orange (~5/sec). This says the aircraft is in bind mode.

 

[FLDirector19]

Hopefully the Top cover is still off. If you refer to the 3rd image in post #6 you will see the SR24 module on the lower right. That should have an LED on it (usually orange blinking ~1/sec). When you tilt the aircraft to place it in bind mode the LED on the SR24 should start blinking faster (~2/sec) and the status LED should start blinking orange (~5/sec). This says the aircraft is in bind mode.

The cover is, indeed, still off. I‘ll check the SR24 for the orange flashing light.

Any thoughts what to check if it doesn’t flash orange?

 

[Yuneec Skins]

You might try Powering on the H920 while Holding Down the Push Button on the ST24 in the Drone, then Try Tilting forward into Bind Mode again...

 

[FLDirector19]

You might try Powering on the H920 while Holding Down the Push Button on the ST24 in the Drone, then Try Tilting forward into Bind Mode again...

I’ll try that next. I just got back from checking if the orange light is lit on the ST24.

The ST16 now looks like this.

I just got back from trying to push the button on the SR24, while turning on the H920+… even tried tilting forward 45 deg, but no change.

So as we”Re eliminating components (LED lights, FC0 has been replaced, the orange light on the SR24 lights (working?) is there anything else to check before I replace the ESC?

 

[DoomMeister]

When you power on the aircraft is the light on the SR24 blinking slowly?

When you tilt the aircraft forward and back trying to place it in bind mode, does the SR24 start blinking faster?

If it does, try doing a bind to the new model you created.

The other thing I noted just now from an earlier post is you said the Status LED was blinking red/green/blue after powering up. That is an indication that the battery level is low enough to trigger the second low voltage alarm. You may need to charge the batteries at least to 22.8V. Measure the voltage on the main battery connector (EC3) with a multimeter set to DC Volts. If it is below 21V that can trigger the low voltage warning. If your charger is capable of placing a storage charge on the batteries do that. If not, try charging them about 20 minutes and check the voltage. When you get to 22.8V stop charging them as that is the level for storage.

 

[FLDirector19]

When you power on the aircraft is the light on the SR24 blinking slowly?

When you tilt the aircraft forward and back trying to place it in bind mode, does the SR24 start blinking faster?

If it does, try doing a bind to the new model you created.

The other thing I noted just now from an earlier post is you said the Status LED was blinking red/green/blue after powering up. That is an indication that the battery level is low enough to trigger the second low voltage alarm. You may need to charge the batteries at least to 22.8V. Measure the voltage on the main battery connector (EC3) with a multimeter set to DC Volts. If it is below 21V that can trigger the low voltage warning. If your charger is capable of placing a storage charge on the batteries do that. If not, try charging them about 20 minutes and check the voltage. When you get to 22.8V stop charging them as that is the level for storage.

I can try that, however, after I select the new craft, it doesn’t display under the camera line. Also, I don’t have the SR24xxx on the opposite side.

 

[DoomMeister]

I can try that, however, after I select the new craft, it doesn’t display under the camera line. Also, I don’t have the SR24xxx on the opposite side.

If the SR24 in the aircraft does not change from slow to faster blinking with the tilting of the aircraft it is not getting into bind mode and will not show up in the Bind menu on the ST16.