Is this normal???

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If they stabilize the gimbal, why bother doing anything with them?

The gimbal is stablished, for now. I don’t know if this will have the wave or jello effect on the video footage in the long run.

This setup, when the dampers becomes soft; during a climb or smooth forward flight will be unnoticeable, but it’s noticeable when coming down, the camera will sway a bit from left to right. Mine is not doing that now, not yet, and hoping it won’t.

I personally prefer the pin method than the gel. I received an extra damper that came with the H+ One was a pin n’ lock method, but the pin was too long and looked flimsy, so I didn’t care much for it.

 

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I retreated mine again, longer exposure to heat 24sec. x4 after telling the dampers cool to touch. Attached it back to the drone and let it hanged for 2hrs. So far so, good.

ATTACH=full]11627[/ATTACH]

 

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It's all about aesthetics.

View attachment 11629

I hope, so. Or else I’m going to be looking for a corn maze to shoot, and call it my new fuego commercial contract.

 

[AH-1G]

I hope, so. Or else I’m going to be looking for a corn maze to shoot, and call it my new fuego commercial contract.

lol

 

[PatR]

I retreated mine again, longer exposure to heat 24sec. x4 after telling the dampers cool to touch. Attached it back to the drone and let it hanged for 2hrs. So far so, good.

ATTACH=full]11627[/ATTACH]

The dampers contain the same volume of fluid after heating as they did before. Heating them up is pure cosmetics, nothing more. As your more familiar with DJI cameras and gimbals perhaps you’re unaware that Yuneec gimbals, since the Q-500 and continuing to the present, don’t telegraph things like yaw disturbances and minor vibrations to the camera, nor do they jump off target. Leaving the target is pilot induced. End of story with all that, they just don’t.

As for the corner pins in earlier gimbals, those were safety devices to prevent camera separation only and did nothing for camera stabilization. The design of the camera/gimbal assembly has been proven quite robust as long as the aircraft hasn’t crashed and the pins are redundant under normal flight operations. The same applies to zip ties and other home grown methods. You can’t maneuver the aircraft hard enough in flight to cause a camera separation.

 

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The dampers contain the same volume of fluid after heating as they did before. Heating them up is pure cosmetics, nothing more. As your more familiar with DJI cameras and gimbals perhaps you’re unaware that Yuneec gimbals, since the Q-500 and continuing to the present, don’t telegraph things like yaw disturbances and minor vibrations to the camera, nor do they jump off target. Leaving the target is pilot induced. End of story with all that, they just don’t.

As for the corner pins in earlier gimbals, those were safety devices to prevent camera separation only and did nothing for camera stabilization. The design of the camera/gimbal assembly has been proven quite robust as long as the aircraft hasn’t crashed and the pins are redundant under normal flight operations. The same applies to zip ties and other home grown methods. You can’t maneuver the aircraft hard enough in flight to cause a camera separation.

Fair enough, but my dampers is looking good right now. Thanks, for the clarifications, Pat.

 

[MattaM]

I found a solution but it is quite long and delicate: empty the dampers with a syringe equipped with a big needle, clean the inside with acetone, always with the syringe through the same hole. Dry by injecting air with the same tool, repeat the operations until perfect cleanliness. Then inject silicone, without the needle this time, taking care to compress with one hand and inject with the other so as to prohibit any pocket of air. balance the 4 pieces by removing silicone, let the silicone dry and cure a few days, or place the dampers at 60 ° C for a few hours. the result is perfect but I do not know how long it will last, or if I would do it again. It's a lot of work for so little.

 

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I found a solution but it is quite long and delicate: empty the dampers with a syringe equipped with a big needle, clean the inside with acetone, always with the syringe through the same hole. Dry by injecting air with the same tool, repeat the operations until perfect cleanliness. Then inject silicone, without the needle this time, taking care to compress with one hand and inject with the other so as to prohibit any pocket of air. balance the 4 pieces by removing silicone, let the silicone dry and cure a few days, or place the dampers at 60 ° C for a few hours. the result is perfect but I do not know how long it will last, or if I would do it again. It's a lot of work for so little.

Not a bad idea!!! I’m going to try this. I bought a fresh pack, because one of the original damper had a leak. How that happened, I cannot seemed to know.

 

[railimages]

I was concerned about them when I got H Plus. I contacted Yuneec and they sent me new package of 8 new ones.

 

[JackMTaco]

So since I had a second H+ to mess with, I went ahead and worked on the dampers. Took a syringe and injected a small amount of air into them. Sealed the hole back up using my solder iron. Will go test fly it here shortly but dramatic improvement aesthetics wise and jerking the plate around shows the dampers still working as they should. Will go report on this shortly.

 

[Eagle's Eye Video]

Since the H Plus was introduced in June, we'll have to wait to see how both the dampeners themselves and these modifications work at 25° F. There will surely be differences...

 

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So since I had a second H+ to mess with, I went ahead and worked on the dampers. Took a syringe and injected a small amount of air into them. Sealed the hole back up using my solder iron. Will go test fly it here shortly but dramatic improvement aesthetics wise and jerking the plate around shows the dampers still working as they should. Will go report on this shortly.

I’m vibe’n with you, man.

I did the same and in a week of flying Monday to Friday, I had this happened. I did similar steps as you did.

 

[PatR]

They obviously are not heat sealing the filler opening very well. I wonder if sealing a new set with silicone might help prevent that from happening? Better might be touching a hot soldering iron tip over the fill opening to close it.

 

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They obviously are not heat sealing the filler opening very well. I wonder if sealing a new set with silicone might help prevent that from happening? Better might be touching a hot soldering iron tip over the fill opening to close it.

Most definitely, the silicone will help a lot. My silicone order should be arriving, and will share my inputs, soon.