Jello after replacing dampers, etc.

[CraigCam]

I attached this, so next time it ain't gonna rip off!

I don’t think you want bolts through there. That’s a for sure way to transfer vibration. The purpose of the rail style slide mount is that in the event of a hard crash, the camera separates from the drone as those rails break away and the camera stays together with the gimbal and the wires don’t tear apart. That’s what the retaining pins are for. The bolts for sure are going to hold it all together so expect to be replacing the top plate if you ever have a bounce or weird landing.

 

[Steve Carr]

Dental floss is much preferred method of securing the two dampers w/o the pins. Just keep it lose enough to allow movement.
Also the dampers are not hard to reinstall using this method.

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[h1pst3r88]

I watched that video when one of mine popped out. It was an "a ha" moment. I used a narrow trash bag type twist tie and it worked great on the first try.

-C

 

[AH-1G]

I don’t think you want bolts through there. That’s a for sure way to transfer vibration. The purpose of the rail style slide mount is that in the event of a hard crash, the camera separates from the drone as those rails break away and the camera stays together with the gimbal and the wires don’t tear apart. That’s what the retaining pins are for. The bolts for sure are going to hold it all together so expect to be replacing the top plate if you ever have a bounce or weird landing.

Haven't had any vibration issues since the repair several months ago. It's not bolted tight, it has plenty flexibility.
When I accidentally landed with a sides ways crash, camera came off and wire ripped out.
Don't plan on that happening again.

 

[CraigCam]

Fair enough. Perhaps you can share the size you choose.

 

[AH-1G]

Fair enough. Perhaps you can share the size you choose.

here's the info

Finally it happened!

 

[deadpilot]

Thought I was done messing with this but got a good weather moment while bored.

So sometimes it doesn't have the jello issue and other times it does.

Noticed something weird. After landing when I went to turn off the H (motors were already stopped) noticed it was vibrating oddly. Nothing was running as far as motors so I thought this was weird, just a vibration going thru it. So I re-calibrated the gimbal thinking that might help and maybe it did but the jello comes and goes.

I even had to go out with the new one to see if it had that vibration and it didn't but the one that crashed doesn't always either... WTF could that be? Any ideas?

I intend to sell this fairly cheap but still want it to work decently if possible, it seems like it should

Also for no apparent reason kept losing GPS for a minute, and that happened with both drones and it's a mostly clear, sunny day.

 

[deadpilot]

Dental floss is much preferred method of securing the two dampers w/o the pins. Just keep it lose enough to allow movement.
Also the dampers are not hard to reinstall using this method.

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Makes it look easy, I am amazed at how beat up that camera looks and assume it still works.

I may try to replace the pins on mine with something else, probably bread ties or maybe those nylon zip-ties. I have a suspicion that the pins that I bought with the dampers might be part of the jello problem, perhaps too tight/short.

 

[Steve Carr]

Makes it look easy, I am amazed at how beat up that camera looks and assume it still works.
I may try to replace the pins on mine with something else, probably bread ties or maybe those nylon zip-ties. I have a suspicion that the pins that I bought with the dampers might be part of the jello problem, perhaps too tight/short.

If you are experiencing jello, remove the dust cover on the top half of the gimbal. It just pulls off if you pull out the skirt slightly. Also you should inspect your props for nicks and cracks. If you have a balancing rod, check them for balance. I have noticed there are certain conditions in which jello is more likely. Flying into a brisk wind seems to be the most common.

Dental floss and fishing line are both very strong and will keep the gimbal halves together. While I have used zip ties they need to be shaped so they stay loose.

Regarding the camera in the video......the owner had painted the gimbal lock with a paint brush so it looks rough. The camera was in good condition.

 

[nicholas hickman]

the camera assembly looks to be hanging too low, but I'm not sat with my H right now.

 

[CraigCam]

Those new pins are tight and I had these issues also. I have old stock parts with the smaller retaining clip that fits loosely in the recess of the mount. Those always work. The new pins retainers are round and pretty tight in there. Some patient filing or sanding can reduce them for better fit. The dust cover can pop up and touch the body so I don’t use them on the new mount design that I have on my newer 480s. This is especially true for the RS version as that module makes the tolerance and camera mount tighter. A cross wind when your panning the camera can cause jello and I expect some in high wind hovers and shots if the camera is doing a slow rotating pan.

 

[deadpilot]

Those new pins are tight and I had these issues also. I have old stock parts with the smaller retaining clip that fits loosely in the recess of the mount. Those always work. The new pins retainers are round and pretty tight in there. Some patient filing or sanding can reduce them for better fit. The dust cover can pop up and touch the body so I don’t use them on the new mount design that I have on my newer 480s. This is especially true for the RS version as that module makes the tolerance and camera mount tighter. A cross wind when your panning the camera can cause jello and I expect some in high wind hovers and shots if the camera is doing a slow rotating pan.

I think if I can force myself to fiddle with it I will try to remove the pins without damaging them and use either bread ties or floss. I still don't understand the vibration I felt a few times when it was on the ground, motors shut down and I went to press the off button.

 

[dxdy]

Dental floss is much preferred method of securing the two dampers w/o the pins. Just keep it lose enough to allow movement.
Also the dampers are not hard to reinstall using this method.

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This video was an "AHA" moment for me - removing the dust cover made it all possible. Dental floss works great. I used it to pull the damper through the holes, then cut a short piece of it to use in place of the pin. I left enough slack for the damper to expand some.