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MAYTECH CF PROPS FOR H

Let's play a game which is the knock off that throws it outta balance and which one is the innovative one?
Assuming you're indicating a battery too long... and I'd question how secure too.

On your design, what battery size can you move up to.. the designed in battery dimensions? Does your tray modify the Ft section too?
Have these been popular or do most prefer the OEM style battery cartridge style?

Over on the H920 side, we've been playing with batteries and different sizes. PatR taken a great direction on a single large battery. I've been playing with new batteries of lower cost / increased performance but it's been very limited by internal battery chamber dimensions.

Have you played with any battery door mod for the H920?
 
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Assuming you're indicating a battery too long... and I'd question how secure too.

On your design, what battery size can you move up to.. the designed in battery dimensions? Does your tray modify the Ft section too?
Have these been popular or do most prefer the OEM style battery cartridge style?

Over on the H920 side, we've been playing with batteries and different sizes. PatR taken a great direction on a single large battery. I've been playing with new batteries of lower cost / increased performance but it's been very limited by internal battery chamber dimensions.

Have you played with any battery door mod for the H920?


The tray is secure and it uses the largest battery you can get in the bay the of the H..the 8000mah 4s multistar. I flown bigger batteries on the belly a 10,000mah and a 16,000 mah and the weight offsets any gains due to increased power consumption. The tray had its honeymoon period in mid 2016 to fall of 2016 when the Hs fell out of the sky and battery production was non existent by yuneec.

Since then a lot of manufactures have made non oem yunnec batteries and many prefer those batteries. The 8000mah multistar is still the best deal at $45 given you have a tray.


I haven't done anything with the h920 but if you'd like to try something share your thoughts and we will give it a shot.
 
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Hi Ralphy! Of all those available colors, what color do you think is strongest? Because I think I have read from one of your posts that the coloring material added to the plastic somehow affects the strength of the product. So which color have you tested to have the least failures among all of them? Thanks!

Yes correct color pigments take away from the strength but they perform just fine in any color. White would be the strongest and it's what I would use before going to stainless which is indestructible.
 
Ralphy, Just a FYI... Was getting screws for the mounts and looked at your example. You indicate 2.5M x 6mm Pan Head for motor mount. It looks like you have a angled / tapered hole which would be for a Flat head or Flat head countersunk. On post #33, the screws in your photo are a Flat head screws.
 
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Ralphy, Just a FYI... Was getting screws for the mounts and looked at your example. You indicate 2.5M x 6mm Pan Head for motor mount. It looks like you have a angled / tapered hole which would be for a Flat head or Flat head countersunk. On post #33, the screws in your photo are a Flat head screws.
Yes sir you are correct and you can get them 4mm long and they will work just as good. Thank you!20180113_104443.jpg
 
Got a fresh new pair of 8000mah multistar and on the first charge i got a whooping 25 min with the cabon 9450 blades. Temp outside was low 50s less than 5 mph winds and never flew more than 12 mph. This was landing at 14.0v
 

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My take on this is to stick to OEM parts and avoid aftermarket parts. Might cost a little more but they with rare exception work as intended. I always worried about compatibility issues on aftermarket products with anything mechanical or electronic. My experience over the years has proven this to be true.
 
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My take on this is to stick to OEM parts and avoid aftermarket parts. Might cost a little more but they with rare exception work as intended. I always worried about compatibility issues on aftermarket products with anything mechanical or electronic. My experience over the years has proven this to be true.

I didnt make this for fun. Have you seen the plastic crap they put on the motor hub? Its engineered to last throughtout the warranty period and then you get wobbly props and jelloly video. Have you measured IR on their factory batteries after 50-100 cycles? Keep an eye on those 2 things.
 
You make some good points Ralphy. I hadn't considered the comparative life cycles of props & batteries. Haven't owned my H long enough to see the weardown of those components. I still prefer OEM parts for most things (computer, automotive, tools, etc)
 
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You make some good points Ralphy. I hadn't considered the comparative life cycles of props & batteries. Haven't owned my H long enough to see the weardown of those components. I still prefer OEM parts for most things (computer, automotive, tools, etc)

I agree and that what makes this forum great. It helps us all develop a sense of awareness for the H. This H480 a recreational toy for some but there are others that use it extensively for work and some of the components simply dont hold up. Overall I used to have greater faith in OEM parts many years ago when companies really stood for their products. Nowdays i think the majority of companies to some extent enginneer products for a limited lifespan profitability and repeat business.
 
Disclaimer: I'm not a chemist. This my humble opinion.

Hours in the sunshine and temperature swings are a major concern.

The Typhoon OEM Props are made of petroleum-based plastic and some nylon for stiffness.

Sunshine radiation affects all plastic props.
Also, many changes in temperature, hot to cold to hot to cold, etc.. can squeeze the petroleum out of these little babies!

This could be a good explanation for some out of balance/warping issues and result in brittle plastic.

Pay attention to how long your systems are exposed to the sun. It's all black and absorbs quite a bit of heat.

Keep in mind, this can cause props to go bad without one minute of flight time!

I'd like to see some white OEM style props to avoid some of the radiation.
 
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Shot those today, i realized i never took some decent pics in flight.



IMG_20180120_174858_556.jpg IMG_20180120_174759_562.jpg


And a bird that realized they were carbon fiber.

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Ralphy, what are the dome prop nuts you’re using... your own or other? You’re using which of your adapters: phantom or Mr Airscrew? Interesting landing struts.
 
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Ralphy, what are the dome prop nuts you’re using... your own or other? You’re using which of your adapters: phantom or Mr Airscrew? Interesting landing struts.

Those props have aluminum hubs built in. There's a guy on ebay that's sells them out of Orlando balanced for like 15 bucks for 2 sets. This is using the Phantom props and adaptors. I haven't gotten to trying or even purchasing the MR Airscrew. I have to wait until I can afford to buy my own design.
 
I agree and that what makes this forum great. It helps us all develop a sense of awareness for the H. This H480 a recreational toy for some but there are others that use it extensively for work and some of the components simply dont hold up. Overall I used to have greater faith in OEM parts many years ago when companies really stood for their products. Nowdays i think the majority of companies to some extent enginneer products for a limited lifespan profitability and repeat business.
You hit that nail directly on the head Ralphy. Planned obsolescence is a factor in many products today verses when I was young. Funny thing though, in my own business I strive to stand behind every product and service my company provided regardless of the manufacture. My dad was the most ethical person I ever knew and he taught me that way.
 
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Ralph, I just got done reading through 11 pages and over a year long thread on props for the H, so forgive me if I missed something.

I just recently got my H and have only flown it a small handful of times but went looking for some backup props which is how I stumbled on this thread.

I see your replacement hubs and am considering it. I did see someone comment a ways back (not sure on what page) about making sure they are VERY snug so they don't come off on motor stop.

I had the Q500 4K for a short time, and they have a rubber O-ring at the base of the hub that gives the prop something to tighten against. I see from your pictures about there is a little room between the top of the hub and bottom of the blade base. Would it work to have a rubber O-ring there for the prop to snug up against?
 

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