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New Typhoon H owner help needed Thanks guys

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Hi everyone , new to the forums
A really nice helpful guy on facebook recommended posting here .
I have recently bought a typhoon h with cg03+ camera and st16 controller , it turns out it had been crashed long story short the wires were ripped from the camera and the K fuse has blown on the mainboard..

My fault and problem is i have no pan or tilt.
I have wired the cameras power externally , and connected the green tx wire and white pwn wires to the slide mount connectors on the drone.
i have checked all the continuity of the wires and all is good .
the light on the gimbal board is solid green and the led on the camera flashes green
it binds to the controller as i can change iso and view video etc.
I get video feed and everything else with the drone seems to work fine , when i try to calibrate gimbal nothing happens the camera doesn't move
The camera does however if i turn it by hand it re centres..

Last thing when i power the camera on the gimbal moves left to 45deg and then back to right 45deg and back and forth like this . unless holding the motor then it stays still facing forward..
Sorry for the long post , i wanted to cover all my bases to give you guys a heads up to what i've done and checked. Thanks Si
 
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WTFDproject

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Sorry for the long post , i wanted to cover all my bases to give you guys a heads up to what i've done and checked. Thanks Si
Si,
Very good first post.
There are two initial avenues:
First, can you show a picture or describe how you have temporarily powered the camera?

Second, we need to ensure all connections are in the proper order. Especially at the gimbal board end. It is very common to have all six wires completely backwards on the plug without realizing it.
CG03+ Slip ring Wire Color.jpg

It will also be helpful to know which method you used when replacing the slip ring. Did you fully remove the Yaw sensor plate, or did you "fish" the slipring wires out of this area with the Yaw sensor still present?
 
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Thanks WTFDproject ,

I have connected the power to the camera using a 12v rail and grd from my pc power supply .

I have ordered the slip ring its not came yet , What i did was remove the white wiring connector from the gimbal board , cut the wires about 1" from the connector and pulled the slip ring out . I left the Yaw sensor and everything else intact..

I have then extended the power and ground wire to get power from the pc , and extended the white and green wires so they are still connected to the slide mount connector for fitting to the drone.. I also checked the alignment on the connectors and everything is fine .
One last thing i looked at was the voltage on the white wire connector on the drone an it got 0.7 volts and the green wire had around 11v on the drone

Funny thing is there are no marks on the camera or gimbal at all showing any sign of it being crashed . nor any on the H itself
Edit also the white connector is in as per pic .
 
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WTFDproject

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OK, I'm going to need some sort of drawing or picture. I'm not sure what you have. One thing is very clear, that green wire is shorted to something hot. It should not be greater than about 3 volts.
 
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Video just showing it powered up the white and green wires are not connected to the drone here.
 
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OK, I'm going to need some sort of drawing or picture. I'm not sure what you have. One thing is very clear, that green wire is shorted to something hot. It should not be greater than about 3 volts.
Let me double check i may have the voltage reading incredibly wrong, Sorry i dont use voltmeters often if at all and all these number have thrown me Give me a minute and i will check .

I have managed to add a video to Youtube .. how easy was that , i had expected it to be so much more difficult than it was thanks @Steve Carr for mentioning youtube for video on here on id of never even thought about it
 

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OK, I'm going to need some sort of drawing or picture. I'm not sure what you have. One thing is very clear, that green wire is shorted to something hot. It should not be greater than about 3 volts.
It is also important to know the "voltage" you see on the white and green wires are not just voltage. It is a very rapid "off/on" signal in a coded pattern that results in a measurable voltage, but it is the coded signal that matters.

The temporary power you have set up might not be the best idea. It would be better if you replaced the fuse in the drone, and powered the camera through the more normal routes. This entire system is based on incredibly small voltage imbalances. With the control signals originating from one source and the power from another might be adding to the confusion.

Do you know how to access the camera fuse?
 
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That would make alot of sense
The temporary power you have set up might not be the best idea. It would be better if you replaced the fuse in the drone, and powered the camera through the more normal routes. This entire system is based on incredibly small voltage imbalances. With the control signals originating from one source and the power from another might be adding to the confusion.
That would make alot of Sense Steve had mentioned the same tonight before messaging you. The main reason for powering the camera externally was due to my worry that it would infact not work at all.

@Steve Carr sent a picture on facebook of the fuse , am i right in saying that its a case of removing the top cover of the H ? I will do that and then get back to you guys with how i get on. once its done

What would cause the gimbal to move left to right like that, the external power may be the cause I'm guessing I will tick the power situation off the list of things done and go from there. Thanks so much . I will post back with an update when its done Cheers Sm
 
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Si,
Very good first post.
There are two initial avenues:
First, can you show a picture or describe how you have temporarily powered the camera?

Second, we need to ensure all connections are in the proper order. Especially at the gimbal board end. It is very common to have all six wires completely backwards on the plug without realizing it.
View attachment 18766

It will also be helpful to know which method you used when replacing the slip ring. Did you fully remove the Yaw sensor plate, or did you "fish" the slipring wires out of this area with the Yaw sensor still present?
Could you elaborate on your last paragraph? Are you stating that damage could occur or more likely too, if the Yaw sensor is left in place. I would think yes?
 

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Could you elaborate on your last paragraph? Are you stating that damage could occur or more likely too, if the Yaw sensor is left in place. I would think yes?
Yes. The Yaw sensor is located where the slip ring wires exit the hollow motor shaft. There are several videos that promote reaching in with a small hook and "fishing" the slip ring wires out. The Yaw sensor wires are not substantial wires. It is easy to do damage to the wires, and make a general mess of things.
Note it is a matter of preference how you do it. It probably takes less than 5 or six extra minutes to do this part of the job properly, but some will always seek a short cut.
Note the videos are almost certainly made by folks that have practiced fishing the wires out. They appear to just reach in, and the wires seem to magically follow the hook out. You will doing it for the first time. Probably using some homemade piece of bent wire. About 30 minutes into figuring out how they got it to work, you may begin to look at yourself strangely in the mirror.
 
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Yes. The Yaw sensor is located where the slip ring wires exit the hollow motor shaft. There are several videos that promote reaching in with a small hook and "fishing" the slip ring wires out. The Yaw sensor wires are not substantial wires. It is easy to do damage to the wires, and make a general mess of things.
Note it is a matter of preference how you do it. It probably takes less than 5 or six extra minutes to do this part of the job properly, but some will always seek a short cut.
Note the videos are almost certainly made by folks that have practiced fishing the wires out. They appear to just reach in, and the wires seem to magically follow the hook out. You will doing it for the first time. Probably using some homemade piece of bent wire. About 30 minutes into figuring out how they got it to work, you may begin to look at yourself strangely in the mirror.
Thanks for the info.
 
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I don't know what it is people are using hooks for ? I just cut the wires next to the connector, once the connector was disconnected . i didn't touch any other part of it at all and then the slip ring and the bare wire end simply pulled out .. Nothing was disturbed . why would people try to hook out wires etc ? is it not easier to just cut them as i have .

On saying that i'm sure the reverse putting the bare wires on new slip ring back in the same way , may pose an issue. I thought that if the motor removed away from yaw sensor bit it had to be re set be Yuneec ? if not i will just remove it for re fitting
 

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You are correct. I should have specified that the discussion of "fishing" the wires applies to installing the NEW slip ring, not removing the old. But there is some similarity. Most folks do not cut the wires, they disconnect them from the white "plug". The tiny little hooks on each wire might also pose some danger to the Yaw sensor and Yaw motor wires, but probably not much. Either way, removing the Yaw sensor plate is by far the safest, and to me, the least frustrating, method.

I have been working on a draft of "CG03+ Slip Ring Replacement" instructions for about a week. "Working", in this case, means I started the project, did only a few minutes work, and succumbed to the weariness associated with a case of the flu. I have not done much of anything with it (or anything else) in several days. I should have a decent written document describing the methods I use within a couple of days.
 
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I thought that if the motor removed away from yaw sensor bit it had to be re set be Yuneec ? if not i will just remove it for re fitting
No problem moving the Yaw sensor out of the way. It has alignment pegs to ensure it goes back in exactly the correct position.

By the way. Just a heads up. DON'T LOOSE THAT WHITE CONNECTOR!! The new slip ring does not come with one, and they are difficult to find.
 
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Hi everyone , new to the forums
A really nice helpful guy on facebook recommended posting here .
I have recently bought a typhoon h with cg03+ camera and st16 controller , it turns out it had been crashed long story short the wires were ripped from the camera and the K fuse has blown on the mainboard..

My fault and problem is i have no pan or tilt.
I have wired the cameras power externally , and connected the green tx wire and white pwn wires to the slide mount connectors on the drone.
i have checked all the continuity of the wires and all is good .
the light on the gimbal board is solid green and the led on the camera flashes green
it binds to the controller as i can change iso and view video etc.
I get video feed and everything else with the drone seems to work fine , when i try to calibrate gimbal nothing happens the camera doesn't move
The camera does however if i turn it by hand it re centres..

Last thing when i power the camera on the gimbal moves left to 45deg and then back to right 45deg and back and forth like this . unless holding the motor then it stays still facing forward..
Sorry for the long post , i wanted to cover all my bases to give you guys a heads up to what i've done and checked. Thanks Si
Welcome and glad you joined. There’s a heap of friendly knowledgeable people here who are willing to share their knowledge.
 
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