Pan knob moves de camera and the drone altitude at the same time.

[rumj48]

Yesterday the H refuse to land, have to grab it in the air, was coming down very slowly with the joystick all he way down but as long as the joystick was free the H tried to go up , 2 times the same thing, until have to grab it, feel that was loosing the H ? Tried to correct this with no luck, what I found is the pan Knob controlling the altitude, and also panning the camera. Without moving the pan knob the left joystick work fine.
Following the forum extended manual, calibrate the controller until everything went green on both screens, the pan knob keep moving the altitude, create a new H and bind it , still the same problem. The camera is in single mode, the flight controls in mode 2, and angle mode.
Did everything according my limited knowledge, do not like to go any further without the Expert Pilots Help.

 

[WTFDproject]

I am assuming you have a Typhoon H and ST16. This discussion only applies to that combination.

It sounds very much like you have channel 8 (K1) mixed into the normal mix of channel 1 (J1 and B1).
If my suspicions are correct, you need to understand it is very dangerous to fly your drone until this is resolved. I suspect you (or someone else) has entered the "Channel Settings" menu at the bottom center of your ST16 screen. If you are not familiar with using "Channel Settings", please use the "SAFE WAY" options mentioned below.

There are two ways to verify:
1.) THE SAFE WAY: Do a rapid double tap on the "volts" icon. A "Final output display" will appear. Move the pan knob (K1). Only channel 8 should move. if both channel 1 and channel 8 move, then K1 is mixed into J1. Also move the throttle. If both Channel 1 and 8 move, then the reverse is true, and J1 is mixed into K1. Both conditions are BAD.
2.)THE RISKY WAY: The other way is to open Channel settings at the bottom of the screen. Only J1 and B1 Boxes should be colored in. If K1 is also colored in, it is mixed in where it should not be. Next, tap the AO4 box on the right hand side of the screen. ONLY K1 should be lit on the left side of the screen. If J1 is also present, then J1 is mixed where it should not be

There are two ways to resolve:
1.) THE SAFE WAY: Delete all current Models in "Model Select" and create a new one. An alternative would be to do a factory reset of the controller, then create a new model.
2.)THE VERY RISKY WAY: Tap on the intruding channel square(s), and select "Deactivate" on the menu that pops up. This is exceptionally risky if you do not already know what should or should not be on each screen.

Whatever resolution you choose, you should re-open the Final output display" (Battery icon double tap), and one by one, check every single control device on the controller. With only ONE exception, there should never be two channels responding to one control device. The ONE exception is the bottom position of the flight mode switch. In the BOTTOM position only (RTH), both channel 5 and 6 should move. Refer to the chart in Attachment 36 ( ST16 Signal Processing Overview ) of "Way To Fix Drones project". The values listed in the chart assume the Rate Slider is full up, and the ST16 is in Controller Mode 2.

And the next flight should be in a safe place, with no camera mounted.

If K1 is mixed in with J1/B1 as I suspect, you are very lucky to have an intact drone. Moving the pan knob full left and leaving it there for 3 seconds would have been the same as pressing the RED button for three seconds, and the drone would have fallen from the sky.

 

[rumj48]

APPRECIATE THE INPUT, as you said the K1 was mixed with the J1, be able to disengage the K1, is working, just panning the camera. But now the B1 do not start the H. At Channel settings both J1 and B1 light at the same time.
I create a new model, but do not get the B1 start the motors. Should do a ST16 reset ?

 

[WTFDproject]

"I create a new model, but do not get the B1 start the motors."
Did you bind the new model to the Typhoon H?
Also, check the final output again (volt tap). Press B1 and see if CH01 goes to negative 25% (-025% on the numbers above the channel). Then move the throttle stick and ensure Ch01 moves from ~100% to ~000% on the same numbers.

"Should do a ST16 reset ?"
Yes, that is the ultimate way to clear bad channel settings. And it does sound like more changes were made in channel settings.

 

[Steve Carr]

I create a new model, but do not get the B1 start the motors. Should do a ST16 reset ?

Stick with the safest method and do the reset. Then check everything again to make certain it is working normally.

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[rumj48]

Yes, I binded the new model.

 

[rumj48]

Will do the reset and replay with the outcome.

Many Thanks again.

 

[KEITH KUHN]

Will do the reset and replay with the outcome.

Many Thanks again.

There is another video on YouTube he doesn't excellent reset I've done it a few times and it's really great I will see if I can tell you the name of the video standby

 

[KEITH KUHN]

Check out the st16 reset by Richard Gilmore on YouTube he's very good.
His accent is a bit strong but if you listen you understand

 

[DoomMeister]

Check out the st16 reset by Richard Gilmore on YouTube he's very good.
His accent is a bit strong but if you listen you understand

While Richard put together a good video for the most part, he failed to mention or stress that the camera pitch slider and the rate slider need to be returned to the center position before exiting the first part of the ST16 calibration procedure. This can lead to problems with proper tilt control of the camera and even more important is improper rate control that can lead to difficulty with altitude control of the aircraft (Difficultly in descending and/or hoppy landings). As a matter of fact the ST16 calibration values are not changed by doing the system factory restore and it is not necessary to do the calibration after a reset.

The first part where he guides you in backing up your data before doing the ST16 reset is very well done.

 

[rumj48]

First thing this morning got back to the ST16, as a last thing to do before reset, did the calibration again, being very careful taking care of all posted instructions.
I will do the test fly this afternoon, but all the controls on the ST16 seem to be working fine. Did not reset ST16 after knowing, from DoomMeister post, that the calibration values do not change at factory restore. This time both slider were at center it appears this is a must to do when doing calibration.
Will post the flying test result, hope everything goes fine, like to film October sunrise mornings.
Appreciate very much all your time, guess will never do it without your expert help.

 

[rumj48]

Update> Have to do a second fly test, in the first test the H land but keep running, do not idle the motors and try to bump sideways, refuse to stop. The controller was with low battery and the rate slider was in turtle mode.
Second fly controller battery 100%, rate slider in rabbit mode, the fly and landing was as should be.
No more problem with the K1 knob.