ST16 About Controller Version n/a
- Thread starter Nicolai
- Start date
Maybe the easiest way is to replace the WiFi board to test it, as far as I know it should be possible to replace it without any problems. You would need the appropriate calibration for the mainboard.
It is worth a try. The WiFi board was going to be the second thing to swap. The gimbal board was the first and was found to be the issue on the one here.
Manchmal bringen mich die automatischen Übersetzungen um.
Ich meine die runde, blaue Platine, die das Gimbal steuert.
Sometimes the automatic translations kill me.
I mean the round, blue circuit board that controls the gimbal.
Manchmal bringen mich die automatischen Übersetzungen um.
Ich meine die runde, blaue Platine, die das Gimbal steuert.
Sometimes the automatic translations kill me.
I mean the round, blue circuit board that controls the gimbal.
View attachment 31715
If you replace this motherboard, the only problem would be the calibration.Manchmal bringen mich die automatischen Übersetzungen um.
Ich meine die runde, blaue Platine, die das Gimbal steuert.
Sometimes the automatic translations kill me.
I mean the round, blue circuit board that controls the gimbal.
View attachment 31715
@h-elsner's CGo3+ gimbal calibration in YTHtool looks really promising. I wired up a test mount pretty much as by the instructions, swapped the normal camera mount out for the test mount on a regular Typhoon H (to use it as a stand), and ran the calibration. There was a bit of a learning curve, but eventually the entire calibration ran and appears to have worked well. I am really encouraged by what I saw.
The gimbal board and gimbal I was using was already in calibration, so it was not the best test. Tomorrow I will swap out the gimbal board with one from another camera to see how well it can incorporate a new board into the system.
A couple of things that confused me:
1,) The wording in the instructions was a little ambiguous related to power supply. The answer is yes, the camera mount has to have the same battery power as normal as well as the connections from the Serial-USB converter.
2.) The camera remained limp under the mount after power up. I did not expect that and wasted time thinking something was wrong. Apparently, all motors are powered down awaiting calibration instructions. When the calibration commands are sent, the appropriate motors run the task, then power down awaiting next calibration phase. After all phases are completed, shut the system down, disconnect the Serial-USB converter from the computer, and restart. All returns normal.
3.) There is a selection to power cycle the camera between each calibration section. It did not seem to work, but did not seem to cause a problem. The camera could also be manually powered down if needed.
Sorry if I sound excited.
But. Yeah. I'm excited.
I am pretty sure the ACC calibration ran the first time through. But it would not run on subsequent tries. The "AccErase" works, and a restart of the gimbal displays that the ACC values are gone (No Acc Offset!). As mentioned in other posts, the camera was transferred to a normal TH and the "Gimbal Calibration" ran perfectly. A return to the test rig displayed the ACC value was again "Acc Offset is OK!".
Note some confusion is possible when using the ST16 calibrations. The "AccCali" in the CGo3+ GUI refers to the gimbal IMU. The "ACCELEROMETER" calibration in the ST16 refers to the IMU of the TH flight control board. The ST16 "Gimbal Calibration" is the same process as the GUI "AccCali",
In the tool should be the button, which do the same without using the H but it is in another mode tab. Read the discussion again where Helmut puts it.
I think you are referring to the "Gimbal Calibration" button he added to "Act as Flight Controller" tab. On my machine, the new button also fails to initiate the ACC calibration, hence the need to transfer to the Typhoon H.
Does the new button work on your system?
I tried that and a couple of other variations. I will experiment more later today when working with a board swap. For now I prepare for an out-of-town errand that will consume most of the morning.
h-elsner
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I'm back from a trip to Switzerland. Tomorrow I will look into this stuff.
I swapped boards between two CGo3+, and calibrated each in it's new gimbal. Both calibrations ran easily, and both gimbals are working as if nothing had changed at all.
Yes, power cycling is the key.
For mine, a simple power cycle of the "test stand" was not enough. But when I shut down the entire system, restarted the GUI and selected the Flight Controller mode prior to powering up the camera, it worked with no problems. Not sure if all the steps I did are needed, but at least restarting everything produced the desired result.
Also noticed that if you start the system in "Flight Controller" mode, then swap to "Gimbal Checker", the entire calibration runs in the normal "motors on" mode, including the "AccCali". "Motors on" would be a problem with at totally uncalibrated gimbal, but quickly erasing Zero Phase has the same effect as "motors off". Not sure what circumstances might make that a useful option, but interesting anyway.
