The 'H' Battery - ! Land at '14.8 Volts' !
- Thread starter Andyzonk
- Start date
What is driving me crazy is I have seen numbers from 14.3 to 14.5 to 14.8 to 15. There seems to be no real definitive answer to this. I intend to start bringing it in from wherever at 15V and land no lower than 14.8.
At least until I learn differently. ii
I just run it till I get the 1st warning at 14.3. Then It takes me another few minutes to bring it back and land and its still at 14.3.
After I shut the motors off it goes back to 14.5.
Heck if I have to replace the battery in a year at least I got the full and longest flight time out of it.
It only takes so many charge cycles so get the most out of each charge.
I set the cutoff at 5400 mah on my charger on a battery landed at 14.6 (if not higher.....should have checked before charging) last night. It took 5400 @16.8v. Say what? I then took off and the voltage dropped quickly to 15.1; stayed up for maybe a minute max, landed, put it back on the charger put disabled the cutoff. It took another 795 mah. This was done in the field so had limited equipment, but have calibrated this iCharger not long ago and used on many other batteries.
Something is fishy because the numbers aren't adding up.
Something is fishy because the numbers aren't adding up.
I agree with glider on the numbers but I have said it before and i say it again, i bet the quoted mah isnt correct.
No disrespect to anyone on here but the figures some are quoting in various forums is a nonsense and some clearly have no experience with lipos, which is fine and i mean no disrespect at all. but perhaps they should refrain from giving numbers to land when it is at best guess work. this is not some fancy battery in there, lipos should be stored at 3.7v per cell and never below 3.2v per cell under load in an ideal world. These numbers are the general consensus which roughly 15 years of lipo use myself is bang on i would say. I have circa 50 lipos for my helis and planes, those are my numbers for all of them.
Landing at minimum 14v under load will not damage a lipo. 14.3 is ideal and leaves a margin of safety the lipo will be happy with. Once on ground it will recover maybe 0.5v ish. I believe the yuneec warning comes at 14.3?so nothing wrong with that although i would raise it a little. Put it this way, if you are at max range when that comes on you will have either a lack of hex problem or killed the pack problem by time it gets back.
If some people want to land at 15v then that is their choice but the battery still has a lot of usable charge left.
I would implore folls not in the know with lipos to do some reasearch and satisfy yourself. Rcgrpups is a good place if you have not used lipos other than in drones as we call them now, it is still a hex or quad to me though
No disrespect to anyone on here but the figures some are quoting in various forums is a nonsense and some clearly have no experience with lipos, which is fine and i mean no disrespect at all. but perhaps they should refrain from giving numbers to land when it is at best guess work. this is not some fancy battery in there, lipos should be stored at 3.7v per cell and never below 3.2v per cell under load in an ideal world. These numbers are the general consensus which roughly 15 years of lipo use myself is bang on i would say. I have circa 50 lipos for my helis and planes, those are my numbers for all of them.
Landing at minimum 14v under load will not damage a lipo. 14.3 is ideal and leaves a margin of safety the lipo will be happy with. Once on ground it will recover maybe 0.5v ish. I believe the yuneec warning comes at 14.3?so nothing wrong with that although i would raise it a little. Put it this way, if you are at max range when that comes on you will have either a lack of hex problem or killed the pack problem by time it gets back.
If some people want to land at 15v then that is their choice but the battery still has a lot of usable charge left.
I would implore folls not in the know with lipos to do some reasearch and satisfy yourself. Rcgrpups is a good place if you have not used lipos other than in drones as we call them now, it is still a hex or quad to me though
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When I first started in RC some five years ago (I was doing rocketry and rocket fuels before that) I ran my LiPos down to about that number (3.0 - 3.1v) on a regular basis. Most of those LiPos died a short life. I have learned a lot since then and personally never let them go below 3.3v after rest with no load. Having said that, I totally defer to you @raptorheli2 as you have a lot more time in this hobby than me. Totally agree with your post here (except that marked in red, of courseI agree with glider on the numbers but I have said it before and i say it again, i bet the quoted mah isnt correct.
No disrespect to anyone on here but the figures some are quoting in various forums is a nonsense and some clearly have no experience with lipos, which is fine and i mean no disrespect at all. but perhaps they should refrain from giving numbers to land when it is at best guess work. this is not some fancy battery in there, lipos should be stored at 3.7v per cell and never below 3.2v per cell under load in an ideal world. They can go down to 3.0 but 3.2v is the general consensus number which roughly 15 years of lipo use myself is bang on i would say. I have circa 50 lipos for my helis and planes, those are my rules for all of them.
Landing at minimum 14v under load will not damage a lipo. 14.3 is ideal and leaves a margin of safety the lipo will be happy with. Once on ground it will recover maybe 0.5v ish.
If some people want to land at 15v then that is their choice but the battery still has a lot of usable charge left.
I would implore folks not in the know with lipos to do some research and satisfy yourself. Rcgrpups is a good place if you have not used lipos other than in drones as we call them now, it is still a hex or quad to me though
).Hey buddy,
I missed the important part perhaps...i said they CAN go down to 3.0v but you REALLY do not want that as you have proved i edited the post to clarify thanks.
Happy flying all!
I missed the important part perhaps...i said they CAN go down to 3.0v but you REALLY do not want that as you have proved
i edited the post to clarify thanks.Happy flying all!
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Thank you for that! I realize English is not your mother language, so please forgive me here. In the video starting at about 2:12 your graphic reads "shorten the blender and lead cables out there." What exactly do you mean by "shorten the blender"? Thanks again.
Gotcha. Not trying to tit-for-tat you here. Ask 10 RC people their opinion on lipo voltages and you will get 10 different answers, all probably within +/- 0.1v! LOL.Hey buddy,
You missed the important part perhaps...i said they CAN go down to 3.0v but you REALLY do not want that as you have proved
Happy flying all!
I edited it again buddy to clarify, it was my bad not yours so changed to reflect....tis all good!
I got caught out on this as well - If your charger is only 5~6 Amps (50 watts) then the maximum charge it will put into the 'H' battery is 3.3 Amps. That is way less than the 1C rating of 5.4 Amps. Im now using a 12 Amp Charger (120 watts) which will allow a 7.7 Amp charge. I can charge a Flat Battery in about 40 minutes.
To clarify how charging works, the advertised amp output is basically not trustworthy, the watts is the only figure that you should concern yourself with. You also need to factor in constant current versus balancing current. Constant current will charge until the cells reach a preset voltage, probably 4v per cell and then balance current takes over which is much lower charge rate as the charger is discharging the high cell down to the low constantly. This is why i like powerlab chargers as they balance up the way and saves time, but it is exepnsive to control that hence their price.
Volts *amps=watts
Basically 80w is 1c charge of the stock battery plus balancing time.
So to put that into context the stock charger is 12*4 which is only 48 watts, which it takes near as makes no difference 2 hours to charge and that is correct.
What we do not know is how much power the stock charger puts out while balancing, it will be very low current hence the time it takes.
Volts *amps=watts
Basically 80w is 1c charge of the stock battery plus balancing time.
So to put that into context the stock charger is 12*4 which is only 48 watts, which it takes near as makes no difference 2 hours to charge and that is correct.
What we do not know is how much power the stock charger puts out while balancing, it will be very low current hence the time it takes.
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Something i have just noticed which may explain numbers not adding up for amps put back in. I believe currently you can only take 100w or less as carry on onto a flight, technically this lipo could be rated at upto 91w (4.2v×4c×5.4amps) if the standard mah figure is used.
If however it was advertised as a 6000mah pack it could mean flight restrictions according to google. Admitedly I do not know a lot about travelling with lipos but google info says under 100w is treated more lax than over it...see link below.
Perhaps they are allowed to use the USABLE mah figure when rating their batteries for cargo purposes rather than 100% of capacity? I do not know but it is food for thought perhaps.....
Traveling With LiPo Batteries and Your Drone - Dronethusiast
If however it was advertised as a 6000mah pack it could mean flight restrictions according to google. Admitedly I do not know a lot about travelling with lipos but google info says under 100w is treated more lax than over it...see link below.
Perhaps they are allowed to use the USABLE mah figure when rating their batteries for cargo purposes rather than 100% of capacity? I do not know but it is food for thought perhaps.....
Traveling With LiPo Batteries and Your Drone - Dronethusiast
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I read the entire thread on when to land for the Tyhoon H. I have two and have had both since they were on the market. I have run them down to 12+. I'm not sure I understand why anyone would consider restrictions at 15V. I have used the drone several times in bad weather and not really achieved the point of mission at 15V. My advice is to fly the H at a reasonable speed and park it at about 400 ft...watch your power level and lower the drone when you believe (see and hear) power is starting to wain. In other words drain the battery and make flight times consistent with what you learned. The batteries are far from identical in anything other than appearance. I have reached almost 30 minutes and same battery reduced to about half the next time. Common sense is to get what your after ASAP and get it back down. If you stick with that you'll be OK. One other thing....watch out for those high power batteries on Amazon...about 8000mah if I recall...at 100$ your much further ahead to get another safe OEM and just deal with it. I have had many interactions with Yuneec service and they are no different than any other electronics seller. Each call is a your best guess...depends on who you talk to and what your calling about.
PatR
Premium Pilot
Never, ever discharge a lipo beyond 70% of capacity and never, ever below 3.2v/cell, under load. You’ll induce cell damage every time you do. You’ll figure it out eventually but the education will have been more expensive than it could have been.
Phaedrus
Premium Pilot
PatR
Premium Pilot
One thing the graphs rarely show is time. Once a lipo reaches the point it starts to fall off into the “knee” the time span between 70, 75, and 80% can be very short. At 80% there are no “reserves” left to work with if a landing has to be aborted of if too far away or too high to make it back and land. The potential for falling out of the sky increases greatly.
Phaedrus
Premium Pilot
Exactly, which is why using 70% max discharge is the more prudent approach. Over the years I've done timed discharge curves for various batteries and the time factor once it nears full discharge is frighteningly fast. There just is no reason to beat your batteries up like that. Not to mention the potential danger it places you at if you are long ways downwind as you near full discharge. If you ever fly to the point of getting a low battery RTL then you have done something wrong in my view.
