Typhoon H Calibration question

[ml4088r]

Im new to these drones. I'm trying to get two of these back to running order . This is a question about the gimbal calibration. I followed the instruction on setting the switches and trim on the ST16. The H is sitting on a flat level table. The reason for this is the camera points straight down all the time. I ran the calibration and it runs through its 2 minute process and ends up pointing straight down.
The camera is CG03P

 

[fantacmet]

On the left hand side of the controller, on the back is a "lever" if you will. Is it all the way down? If it is, there is your answer. That controls the tilt of the camera.

 

[ml4088r]

On the left hand side of the controller, on the back is a "lever" if you will. Is it all the way down? If it is, there is your answer. That controls the tilt of the camera.

If I run it all the way up( away from me ) it barely make it point just below the horizon. In middle its pointing directly down. From middle to all the way down it really doesn't do much.

 

[fantacmet]

Could be the controller as the issue. Software. Hardware(potentiometer could be partway burned out).

 

[DoomMeister]

This sounds like the calibration of the ST16 may be off or was performed improperly.

Are these systems ones you have owned for awhile or are they previously owned?

The first thing to check is the Hardware Monitor in the Settings menu for the ST16. This checks the input of all the switches, buttons, and potentiometers for proper operation. Let us know the result and we can proceed from there.

 

[WTFDproject]

Im new to these drones. I'm trying to get two of these back to running order . This is a question about the gimbal calibration. I followed the instruction on setting the switches and trim on the ST16. The H is sitting on a flat level table. The reason for this is the camera points straight down all the time. I ran the calibration and it runs through its 2 minute process and ends up pointing straight down.
The camera is CG03P

The problem could be corrosion on the slider pot, a problem with signal processing in the firmware, or the gimbal calibration needs to be run. (not the calibration you just did, that one has nothing to do with the issue.)
It could also be a hardware mismatch if you swapped the left button board into the other controller.

So let's do some checks:
1.) If you swapped the left button board into the other controller, skip to the end and start by doing a Channel Calibration.

2.) If you did not swap the button board over or if you have already done a channel calibration, then open "Hardware Monitor" (system settings/OK/Hardware Monitor). Move the gimbal slider up and down. "K2" indicator should move smoothly up and down. This checks the Hardware.

3.) If the hardware looks good, check the Signal Processing. Go back to the main controller screen and do a quick double tap on the battery "Volts" icon. This will bring up a box with a bunch of scales on it. Move the pitch(tilt) slider top to bottom again. The indicator for CH07 should move smoothly top to bottom. It may indicate a couple of percent off on either top/bottom or both, but no real worries if it's pretty close to 100% in each direction.

3.) If both Hardware and signal processing look good, you need to do an actual Channel Calibration. Either of these videos will help. The absolute key to success is that BOTH sliders (camera tilt on left, Rabbit/Turtle on right) on the sides of the controller must be in the center position prior to changing screens.
ST16 Calibration Video Links

 

[ml4088r]

This sounds like the calibration of the ST16 may be off or was performed improperly.

Are these systems ones you have owned for awhile or are they previously owned?

The first thing to check is the Hardware Monitor in the Settings menu for the ST16. This checks the input of all the switches, buttons, and potentiometers for proper operation. Let us know the result and we can proceed from there.

these are used units that I aquired

 

[ml4088r]

The problem could be corrosion on the slider pot, a problem with signal processing in the firmware, or the gimbal calibration needs to be run. (not the calibration you just did, that one has nothing to do with the issue.) It could also be a hardware mismatch if you swapped the left button board into the other controller.
Let's do some checks.
1.) If you swapped the left button board into the other controller, skip to the end and start by doing a Channel Calibration.

2.) If you did not swap the button board over or if you have already done a channel calibration, then open "Hardware Monitor" (system settings/OK/Hardware Monitor). Move the gimbal slider up and down. "K2" indicator should move smoothly up and down. This checks the Hardware.

3.) If the hardware looks good, check the Signal Processing. Go back to the main controller screen and do a quick double tap on the battery "Volts" icon. This will bring up a box with a bunch of scales on it. Move the pitch(tilt) slider top to bottom again. The indicator for CH07 should move smoothly top to bottom. It may indicate a couple of percent off on either top/bottom or both, but no real worries if it's pretty close to 100% in each direction.

3.) If both Hardware and signal processing look good, you need to do an actual Channel Calibration. Either of these videos will help. The absolute key to success is that BOTH sliders (camera tilt on left, Rabbit/Turtle on left) on the sides of the controller must be in the center position prior to changing screens.
ST16 Calibration Video Links

Both the hardware as well as in screen that comes up under volts ch 7 is smooth. If I move the tilt mode switch all the way down I get almost full movement out of the tilt of the camera

 

[WTFDproject]

Both the hardware as well as in screen that comes up under volts ch 7 is smooth. If I move the tilt mode switch all the way down I get almost full movement out of the tilt of the camera

Sound like it just needs the real calibration in the links above.

 

[ml4088r]

Sound like it just needs the real calibration in the links above.

Thank you I will look at that link now.

 

[ml4088r]

Thank you I will look at that link now.

passed all tests. I guess its just something I need to get use to . I appreciate the help

 

[WTFDproject]

Im new to these drones. I'm trying to get two of these back to running order . This is a question about the gimbal calibration. I followed the instruction on setting the switches and trim on the ST16. The H is sitting on a flat level table. The reason for this is the camera points straight down all the time. I ran the calibration and it runs through its 2 minute process and ends up pointing straight down.
The camera is CG03P

Can you explain more of what you were reading and what you did when you "followed the instruction on setting the switches and trim on the ST16."

 

[ml4088r]

Can you explain more of what you were reading and what you did when you "followed the instruction on setting the switches and trim on the ST16."

TYPHOON H USER MANUAL Vcho3-2.pdf document I read the section on gimbal calibrations page 45

 

[WTFDproject]

Was the gimbal performing normally before you ran that calibration?

 

[ml4088r]

Was the gimbal performing normally before you ran that calibration?

I can't say as this is all new to me. The gimbal has alway looked straight down since I first powered it up. .
I have also seen problems with both of my typhoon H not getting GPS locks.

 

[WTFDproject]

Will the gimbal stay straight and level when positioned by hand and NO POWER on?

 

[ml4088r]

Power off, i can move it around and yes I can tease it to sit straight and level

 

[WTFDproject]

Power off, i can move it around and yes I can tease it to sit straight and level

Forgot to ask for the power-off check:
Does it move around freely with no signs of any spring-like tension anywhere in the movements?"


Is the second typhoon H functional?
Does the second Typhoon H have a functional CG03+?
Is there enough left of the second ST16 to get it bound and operate the gimbal for a test?