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Typhoon H Plus Native ISO?

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I recently purchased the H plus RS, and im happy with the recording results thus far. the h.265 footage grades pretty well in the flat "original" preset.

What i'm wondering is, since filters for this drone's camera seem to be discontinued and otherwise nonexistant, what the native iso is, so I don't have to expose with shutter speed to bring things in-line on bright days. Barring that, what ISO in your experience is the limit for noise in daylight?
 

Ty Pilot

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I am one of the fortunate ones that got a set of the Freewell ND sets that fits the C23 perfectly so I can make the shutter and ISO just as I like. By 'native' ISO I suspect you're asking what does the auto camera setting use. I think it depends on light but I am guessing that on really bright days on Auto (with no filter) it sets it at the lowest setting and then compensates with shutter.

Your not going to get any noise in most daylight, but at the end of the day shooting a sunset you will begin to see a little noise in the shadows once you get over 800 or so if I remember correctly. If I am shooting in the late evening I will just set the shutter to twice the FPS then set ISO as necessary and that is the best you can do.
 
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Fred Garvin

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ISO is a setting of last resort for me. I will do everything possible to avoid moving ISO off 100. Even on my D810 I’ll keep it at 64 or 100.....anything higher than 400 starts to introduce noise “I” can see, but I have a very, very low tolerance for noise in my images. That’s another reason I hesitate to post images, because of file size and bandwidth needs, I have to export to a heavily compressed JPG that’s 5% of the original image....and it may look fine on a small screen, once you zoom in a bit and start to see pixelation and noise.....it just breaks my heart after seeing the original 40Mb image.....
 

Eagle's Eye Video

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What i'm wondering is, since filters for this drone's camera seem to be discontinued and otherwise nonexistant, what the native iso is, so I don't have to expose with shutter speed to bring things in-line on bright days. Barring that, what ISO in your experience is the limit for noise in daylight?

Agreed... do not adjust the ISO up, unless all other options have been tried. As far as availability of ND filters, all the filters listed in the link below will work with the 40.5mm filter ring adapter included with the C23.

B&H Photo - ND Filters 40.5mm
 
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I don't want to have to rebalance the gimbal to use NDs, and the ones that don't require that are discontinued and apparently never worked in the first place for half the people who bought them.


By 'native' ISO I suspect you're asking what does the auto camera setting use.

no, I mean Native ISO. Modern digital camera sensors have support electronics that are calibrated for a single sensitivity (or 2 in some high end cameras like the varicam) -- higher or lower iso settings are just adjusting a "gain" value from that default sensitivity, which is why noise becomes more apparent. There's no reason to go lower than the default sensitivity unless you're shooting in extremely bright environments because adjustments in post will do essentially the same thing, and exposing with shutter speed isn't ideal, but going higher introduces more noise.
 
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The ideal methodology would be to stick to the native ISO and only go lower when things blow out so you can preserve information in the shadows rather than keeping it locked at 100 (though the native ISO for the c23 may be 100, in which case, nevermind)

Since we don't have aperture control it seems like an important detail to know.
 
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Not in manual. As a photographer myself, I shot a few test images of the same object and came to that conclusion a while back. When you start to see substantial noise is around 400 and up when shooting DNG photos. After 400, some decent amount of post editing is required to de-noise the images. For Video 100 ISO produces the cleanest and sharpest video of the ISO range. 400 is still highly usable but I'll run it through NEAT filter plugin to clean up the noise in my videos in POST. 800 and above when trying to capture the ground with minimal lighting is when you start to notice the noise even on the controller screen. Although I have shot some video at 1600 that was usable because it was the dark of night and for a firework shot (cause I was bored).





If you watch the above video in 4K you can see the noise generated at 1600 at the bottom left of the screen but once the firework lights up, the noise on the video disappears. Again, it's usable but requires quite a bit of cleaning up. This particular shot wasn't ran through a plugin to clean it.
 
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Iso 100 is the native ISO on the C23 that said for stills you can easily bumb it up to 1600 without ruining the images. See attached example taken at ISO1600

For video i recommend shooting at 60fps where you get the highest bitrate the camera can deliver 100 Mbps. If you shoot in 4k 24,25 or 30 you will only get around 60 Mbps the increased bitrate will help you battle the noise in post because of the increased data on the recorded footage.

Filming at 60fps with a shutter speed of 120 will also in many scenarios give you the opportunity to fly without filters especially early mornings and late evenings. YUN_0008-2-13%20(18)-Edit-Edit.jpeg
 
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is this the same in both h.264 and h.265? 60mbps h.265 should (in theory) be around 20% better than 100mbps h.264 because of the codec efficiency
From my findings yes it is the same.
 

johnnyb57

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I recently purchased the H plus RS, and im happy with the recording results thus far. the h.265 footage grades pretty well in the flat "original" preset.

What i'm wondering is, since filters for this drone's camera seem to be discontinued and otherwise nonexistant, what the native iso is, so I don't have to expose with shutter speed to bring things in-line on bright days. Barring that, what ISO in your experience is the limit for noise in daylight?
 

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