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Using white/grey card...

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So I get that you use this to set white balance, but I'm fuzzy on exactly how you use it, and so far, Google hasn't cleared up the fuzz. Anybody care to explain in words of one syllable or less ?? Thanks.

Dave
 
You mean the fuzziness on the video? Which drone are you flying?
What video editor are you using?
 
Dude, you need to slow down and actually READ what folks post ;)! I was referring to the fuzziness between my ears, not on video, as regards proper technique for using a white/grey card.
Yea, dude you're right.:oops:
 
So I get that you use this to set white balance, but I'm fuzzy on exactly how you use it, and so far, Google hasn't cleared up the fuzz. Anybody care to explain in words of one syllable or less ?? Thanks.

Dave


A reasonably good explanation...
 
So I get that you use this to set white balance, but I'm fuzzy on exactly how you use it, and so far, Google hasn't cleared up the fuzz. Anybody care to explain in words of one syllable or less ?? Thanks.
Dave
I'm not sure I'm doing it correctly, but I put the card in front of the camera when it boots up and then lock the white balance. If it doesn't look right I reset the camera (in the camera settings) and do it again.
 
I don't use a card
I flip the camera up 15° up mostly facing the brightest side of the sky, then lock the WB.
then set up manually.
 
I'm not sure I'm doing it correctly, but I put the card in front of the camera when it boots up and then lock the white balance. If it doesn't look right I reset the camera (in the camera settings) and do it again.

That procedure is correct... part of the confusion is between the purpose of a white card and a 18% grey card... The white card is used to set color (white balance)... the 18% grey card is used to set proper exposure manually.
 
Maybe this will help.
 
That procedure is correct... part of the confusion is between the purpose of a white card and a 18% grey card... The white card is used to set color (white balance)... the 18% grey card is used to set proper exposure manually.

You, on the other hand, just raised a whole new question :eek:. So how do you use a grey card to set exposure?
 
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Reactions: Steve Carr
You, on the other hand, just raised a whole new question :eek:. So how do you use a grey card to set exposure?

Unfortunately the CGO3+ does not give a readout of what your shutter speed is in Auto mode. So you will need to use one of the following:

A) SLR camera that gives a viewfinder readout of meter readings. Place the Grey card in the same lighting conditions as you are shooting. Set the ISO the same as you intend to use on the CGO3+. If the camera has an Aperture Priority setting use that at the same f-stop as the CGO3+ (2.8)... or manually adjust the f-stop to 2.8. Use the corresponding shutter speed that is given when the gray card fills the exposure sensor area.

B) A handheld meter... Place the Grey card in the same lighting conditions as you are shooting. Set the ISO the same as you intend to use on the CGO3+. Take your measurement, pointing the meter at the gray card. Use the corresponding shutter speed that appears opposite the f-stop of the CGO3... (2.8). ** NOTE **: Adjust exposure as needed for any ND filters used.

Semi-relevant side note: In an urban environment and do not have a gray card handy? Taking a measurement as described above, of a red brick wall... will yield a exposure reading within 1/10 of a stop from a 18% grey card.

Slightly more relevant side note... no alternate means of metering exposure? Adjust shutter speed until image on ST-16 looks good. Then reduce exposure a further 2/3 to 1 full f-stop.
 
Might have known it wouldn't be as easy :oops:. Guess I better go digging through my storage loft, I think I might even have an exposure meter buried in there somewhere from back in my 35 mm days. In the meantime, I guess I'll focus on white balance and hope the rest of it takes care of itself. Later, and thanks!

Dave
 
For what it is worth, both the Typhoon H and H Plus series have a histogram. And keep in mind that with a UAV, you are always moving, turning and tilting the camera so conditions that were set on the ground can, (but not always) be thrown out the window when aloft. ;) Also, what we are shooting (photo or video) is going to have a big impact on the settings, if I am shooting photos - DNG's for maximum quality, I will want to slightly overexpose because there is a lot more data in the highlights than in the shadows and also I want the shutter speed as fast as I can get it so no ND filter for photos. But if I am shooting video, and I want to control the exposure for the best picture, I'll set the shutter to twice that of the FPS and ND accordingly, trying to get a neutral exposure.

My experience with WB on the Typhoons has been; the initial settings chosen by the camera upon start up are pretty dang good. I will usually just lock it right from the start, granted I don't do a lot of indoor or night flying and usually am in daytime bright sky conditions.
 
I’ve found that with modern camera systems, Auto White Balance is really reliable, and it’s the only auto setting I use. Keep in mind I shoot RAW and everything I keep is run through Lightroom, so the temp is a minor tweak if any at all. I also shoot a frame or two of the white card, under the lighting I’m using, for reference in later processing. I’ve never used a grey card for exposure as I spot meter or center weight, and I can dial in pretty fast. I even have one of those gadgets that you put in front of the lens....opaque plastic thingy supposed to help with exposure....never used it.
 
I used to use cards to set up my camera but gave up having gotten fed up with loosing my settings because of the (UK firmware) intermittent issue with loosing video link on retracting the landing gear. Nowadays I usually use the same method as AH-1G uses especially if I'm on a commercial gig. (when flying hobby I'm just a lazy so and so and often just don't bother...leaving everything to auto)
 

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