Hello Fellow Yuneec Pilot!
Join our free Yuneec community and remove this annoying banner!
Sign up

What exactly does resetting the breeze do?

Think I have an answer to what A9S is. A search for Breeze Parts brings this up. Yuneec Breeze A9 Board
This is the board that has WiFi, SD memory, microUSB port, and reset switch. I suspect the camera is connected to this board also.

See if the A9S shows up in device manager or in connected devices. You can also see if it appears as a USB device on the connected USB devices on the right side of the task bar in Win 10. If you can see it you may be able to find a way to transfer the uncompressed firmware.bin to it and get it working again. See this thread for info on the firmware Help for Breeze WiFi and Firmware Issues.
 
Yeah. That would certainly make sense to be that board. Nice pirice huh lol. It really would be nice to get this one running as it looks like new. I could swap boards with another one of course but let's see if theres another way.
On ebay I see a few wifi boards starting at $25 but theres always parts drones that dont run too much also. Drone #4 is missing the 4 leg snap in covers that go in the inside of the legs and a bottom cover with the correct lenses would be nice or at least the real lens pieces. I am trying to spend as little as possible to keep the repairs as cheap as possible.
Where I'm at so far not including tax is drone #1 new $150 Walmart with controller, drone #2 new $0 Walmart with controller (did a few hours of work for my sister who paid for it). Drone $3 was supposed to be fully working for the $60 I paid but had issues and also came with nothing except the hard case. Because it had issues the seller sent me free another one (not in a case) that was supposed to be a parts drone and ended up just needing a new set of props to fly right and that's drone #4. Drone #4 is missing those internal leg pieces and I had to make fake plastic lenses for the bottom cover and epoxy some cracks in the legs themselves. The legs were cracked but not full length and could still work without the repair. Fixed a motor on #3 and we are just talking solder glue and shrink tubing.
Bought 2 sets of new props although one of the props was a bit too tight and had to fix it but the seller sent me another pack free when I only asked for 1 blade. Spent $10 on what turned out to be aftermarket blades that were a waste of $. DONT buy aftermarket props as they are VERY tight in both the thickness at connection and grommet where the pin goes through. I've modified them to fit better but who knows if they are compromised elsewhere. Saw review after review on them where people still tried to use them resulting in crash after crash.
I consider drones 3 and 4 cost to be divided between the 2 since they came from same seller. Figure if I split the cost between them so far I've got a little over $50 each due to the $40 spent on new props. I've got so much glue and solder and shrink tubing here that stuff adds up to maybe fifty cents worth used and what was supposed to be 1 working drone is now 2.
Drone #5 came with everything but the controller and even the props on it are workable. The battery appears to work like new and the motors seem perfect like the rest of the drone so even if its bricked it was a decent purchase adding up parts prices.
At this point I intend to try everything I can that DM suggested and maybe get lucky but I'm also going to be watching prices for another parts drone cheap as it would be nice to get the inside feet clips, a new bottom piece or at least the 2 round lenses and of course a working wifi board if I cant get it to work.
Stay tuned....

Before I forget is there a serial number anywhere on the drone itself? Drone #5 actually came in it's original box so I know it but drones 3 andc4 didnt. Would like to have all of them registered at yuneec but I dont know where to find the numbers. Is it maybe in software or the logs? I haven't tried registering #5 yet so it will be interesting to see if it says it's already registered.
 
Last edited:
You can get the serial number when you are connected to Breeze Cam. Go to Settings, About, and the Serial Number as well as version numbers for Client, FC, ESC, and Camera.
 
It's fine. I should try to get several parts drones and try to do some repair videos.

I have back surgery in three weeks, so after I recover I'll see about doing that.
 
I watched a ton of YouTube videos and cant seem to find one where someone actually takes apart a breeze. If I end up getting a replacement wifi board is there any guide for removing the whole assembly? Looking at it it seems to be pulling a bunch of molex connectors and then carefully pulling it all away from the 4 dampers.
I'm currently bidding on 2 parts drones that are actually only about an hour from me not that I would drive there especially as shipping is free. Think they both end within a couple days and i was top bidder on both last i looked. All comes down to how much they go up too. Probably wont buy both unless they are pretty low.
UGH, back surgery. I've had one so far getting a plate across C6-C7. My father has had a couple of major ones though and he was in really bad shape afterwords for quite awhile. Back surgery is usually one of those things you try to put off as long as you can. Let me know what day and I'll be praying for you.
One of the reasons I have time to post these long tales is because I have to lay down for awhile at times due to my left kidney pain. Gives me a distraction while its calming down. Let me know if you know of any teardown stuff even if it doesnt include a video or pics. Thanks
 
I have scoured the forums, YouTube, and the web to no avail. If I ever get any for parts I’ll do some tear down pics and videos and write guides. The biggest problem with buying boards is they cost more than buying the whole drone at this time.

My surgery is scheduled for Nov 5th. Need laminectomy from L5 up to T12 and a fusion of L3, L4, and L5. Recovery 8 to 12 weeks. I’ve been getting numbness in my legs for a couple of years and it keeps getting worse. I’m getting this done before I get any permanent nerve damage.

As you work on your drones take pics and/or video to document the tear down.
 
Last edited:
Wow, you are having major spine surgery. If you dont mind me asking what did you do for a living to get to this or was it from an accident? Mentioning my small fusion is a joke in comparison. I'll ask my sister (she is a physician) about your operation so I am informed better about your procedures. Might be able to find videos of them too.
Good idea on trying to document at least with some pics. I'm seriously tempted to perform "surgery" on drone #5 today as I'm going to have to do it anyways to swap the wifi board. Are we positive that's where the memory is? Hoping it's just screwed down and just has molex connections. Suspect this is actually going to be easy as long as theres no multi-pin solder connections. Looking at pics of that board I'm not expecting any issue. Think it's about being careful not to damage the rubber dampers and delicately pulling the molex connectors although it looks like they were smart and added some glue where the small wires enter them. Dont want to slip and mess up one of those wires. Danger is if the connectors are really tight.
Once I open her up I may be tempted to open I may be tempted to do the same with either drone 3 or 4 and use their wifi board. Depends on the likelihood of damaging one. It's just that #5 looks like new so it's the one out of the 3 that I want to work the most. #3 looks the worst (but not bad) as you can see the inch or so long crack on the top front right (looking with the front pointed away from you and front being the camera end) easily still although it is repaired from the inside. Thinking about how I can make it less visible but it's not coming to me as all my ideas so far would more likely make it more visible.
By the way, you know you have fake props from a seller if they dont come in the yuneek packaging by looking at the A or B markings. The real ones have the A or B inside a circle. It's really an absolute shame that the real ones are so expensive. Those props cost hardly anything to make and the lowest price I've found for legit ones so far is ebay at about $20 shipped (2) 4 packs. I also think the quality of the threaded pins should be higher because it's too easy to strip out the female ends. It may have more to do with the slightly off as in too big size of the t6 hole. I've tried at least 10 different tools to turn them and the fit is just a tiny bit loose so you really need to be aligned right or they will turn into a major pain to loosen/tighten. One was bad enough that I ended up using my dremal to cut a slot in the head to use a flathead for removal.
So when I was installing my new sump pump I realized that the primer would likely work on the drones plastic to soften it and you might be able to soften/melt to make a glue with it. Tried with a bad prop by letting a piece of it sit in it and it will melt it but I dont think it's going to dry back to full strength. I need to experiment more with it. Also, need to buy the clear primer as all I have is the purple.
Speaking of purple primer I'm tempted to do a lightly brushed purple primer prop set. As anyone knows who has worked with it that primer will stain practically anything so it would be easy to make some purple props. It wont damage the blades unless you soak them in it. Could stain a complete breeze purple or give it some purple markings lol.
Looking on ebay I believe one of the sellers of parts bought a few new ones from Walmart as hes selling new parts harvested as the parts are new but not coming in a yuneek bag. The pricing is OK for new parts and adding them up hes making a decent profit. The breeze may be on it's way out at this point although we dont know for sure and it shouldn't be at the current price, people are snatching them up while they can so I would expect more members. I've really looked around and for what it can do I cant find any comparable drone anywhere near the current price. Most of the comparisons are from when it came out and are vs the DJI spark which in my view is an upgrade but quite an expensive one right now at current pricing. Dont know if it's enough of an upgrade to spend $400 on it. Would want to mess with it myself before blindly committing to it. Issue is pricing starts jumping quite a lot higher moving up from there in their product line.
Yuneec has some interesting units and I wonder what kind of an upgrade going to a q500 is plus more interestingly ebay has lots of typhoon h around the cost of a fly more spark package for used but cared for ones. I think I would take the chance on a used Typhoon H for that kind of $ as I'm not seeing a better bargain out there. I'm definately not looking to move up anytime soon but it's interesting to check it out anyways. Having a great time restoring cheap used ones anyways. Most people dont have the skills or are bothering to attempt fixing them after a fault or crash so it's our gain:)
 
The back problems are genetic from my Dad’s side of the family. My job may have contributed a bit. I was an electrician at AC Sparkplug, construction, maintenance, and high voltage crew. I maintained a lot of high tech equipment for toolrooms and circuit board manufacturing.

I’ve been a computer geek since the days of Atari, Commodore, and Apple. Learned a lot as an Avionics Tech in the USAF before returning to AC and becoming an electrician. Have loved nature photography since junior high and the camera drones are a great extension and blend of both fields of interest.
 
Got it apart and it's not that difficult. Took pics. Need to take your time and do your best not to stress wires and stuff but you can do it in about half an hour even taking pics. If I worked fast now that I've done it I could do another in about 5 minutes if I just pulled on wires but that's not me. 10-15 minutes being careful now that I know what's what.
So here's a description of how you do it up to not removing the battery connection in the case which looks like just removing 2 screws. The battery end wires are just the 2 outside connections as the middle ones are not used for lower voltages anywhere because the charger is doing the balancing and not a board in the unit. Those 2 power wires are hard soldered up through the top main board next to the dual lens range sensor. The rangesensor says Yuneec TOF Rangesensor V2 20160615 which I'm assuming is a part number as another drone has the same #.
IF you have to change out the camera you NEED to know that it is NOT a press-in ribbon cable! You clue is the plastic holder that clips down over where it connects to the wifi board. It presses straight down into the female end so DONT try to slide it out or you may damage it. You CANT change out the camera assembly without removing the complete circuit assembly though because the camera also has another molex connector that connects into the wifi board underneath unless you cut the 3 wire line and then solder it together again. No reason to do it though as it's easy to get the whole thing up.
As DM has mentioned, if you are hearing that straining noise when you aim the camera straight down it's because the cable is tight and really just needs to be a couple mm longer because it's what is preventing it from reaching its final position. I have personally exercised the servo at this position and also used a little spray silicone on the ribbon cable but to be honest I haven't checked to see if it still does it yet.
If you use spray silicone dont just spray it as it will get all over everything and you DONT want it on your lenses for sure. Spray it into something and then use a little brush careful to stay away from any camera lens. To be clear I'm referring to the water like clear silicone and not some kind of grease.

Saving this before I write more in case I lose what I'm writing so hang on as I write more

Well lucky me. I finished the write up and when I tried to post it I lost all the rest as it had to be less than 10000 words and instead of hitting the x I pressed the back button. ARGH!!!!!!!!!!!
Need a break before I try and write that all up again:(
 
Last edited:
So I will now attempt to finish my teardown post but first some potentially useful information:
Make sure you use locktite (I prefer red) on all screw ends when reassembling the drone. Keep in mind that this is a vibration machine and wants to fall apart. I ran into a couple of problems with the parts drones coming apart because the screws were either not tightened properly or locktite wasnt used. Theres a reason why those extra screw pins that come with the extra props are there as they have some kind of coating on the ends to keep them from backing out. I am not just talking about those though but ANY/ALL screws you remove need it reapplied. I know that the red and blue locktite have a working time of 10 minutes but require 24 hours for full strength cure just like most epoxy.
See the po previous post about using clear spray silicone on the camera ribbon cable. Brought it back up because I forgot to mention that you dont want the silicone to hit and smooth floor because the floor will become incredibly slippery and you might get really hurt walking on it!It's a good practice to use non metallic screwdrivers or whatever when theres a possibility that you could slip and potentially damage something on a circuit board or wire. You also want to avoid using something sharp for the same reason. Of course you can ignore all that but take your time and dont be in a rush even if a connector is being stubborn.
Be VERY careful when removing the bottom drone cover as it is way too easy to break the male clips off. Drones 3 and 4 both came with 2-3 clips already broken and drone 5 was all good until I took the cover on and off a few times and broke one of the side clips. Either drone 3 or 4 has a missing end clip which is more important than the side ones but I personally haven't broken any as I put the bottom cover on by attaching one end and then closing down from the opposite end pulling it out a bit so I'm actually over the female clip holes rather than just snapping it down. If an end clip doesnt sermon to hold check that the little center tab on the female end hasnt pushed inside slightly as you may need to give it a little pressure to hang straight again so it will clip properly.
I recommend using a small piece of regular scotch tape across any spot that doesnt clip and not something stronger like packing tape. The reason why is I would rather have the parts come off in a crash than be locked in place so theres more give rather than a hard solid and have it snap or crack. The plastic cant take much trauma without cracking but it's less likely if it give a bit. My opinion.
Saving this again so hang on while I write more in the next post.
 
Last edited:
Okay, how to take it apart:
Take pics as you go along before and after any changes so you wont have any questions about the layout and where to use hot glue (or silucone) during reassembly.
Unclip the bottom piece and out it aside. The way I do it is start on the battery end and gently pull it away with a fingernail so it unclips and the rest will come off easily. If you need to get to the other side of the circuit board you will also need to unclip the 2 front leg inserts and twist the legs out so you can pull out the wifi antennas. You can wait to do that when you are at the point of lifting out the whole circuit assembly. Put it aside where it cant fall and potentially break a clip or the lens pieces.
Speaking of lens pieces, they are just lightly glued or stickied in place and are rigid so when you flex the bottom cover they can start to come loose. I know this as it happened to drone 3 and I had to secure them. Dont push too hard on them from the inside or they will detach.
What I would do next is pull out the 4 moles connectors for the motors. First you should remove what appears to be the hot glue that is holding 3 of the 4 wires in place. You can either carefully cut it with a razor or try and grab it with small needle nose and twist it around til it comes off. Just pay attention so that you are not stressing the wires.
I use a ceramic screwdriver to get between the seams where the connectors attach and you can also do the same thing on the sides of the connectors to work them out. I would use minimal pulling of the wires as you dont want a wire to come loose.
You should be trying to keep the whole assembly from moving around too much with your other hand as it's going to be moving all over because of the 4 silicone damping feet holding the entire assembly. Makes it harder to remove connectors believe me.
After that carefully do the same with the power switch ends 3 miles connectors where they plug into the main assembly. Theres 2 that go up and one that is a bit harder to get at under the end. You will notice an unused one on the board and I'm guarding that's a port they use to check things or load software or adjust the camera position. Looking over all the boards I dont see anything you can adjust.

Saving again so hang on....
 
Next step is you need to press all the silicone vibration dampers back through the holes and it's really easy just dont use anything that could cut them or poke through them. It's pretty easy to pull them back through when reattaching also. Those long ends are for pulling them back through but I would use a combination of pulling on them and gently pressing the rubber back through. You definately dont want to pull the entire silicone pieces out as I'm betting they are a huge pain to get the other end back in place.
So now you can kind of pull the whole assembly up but not really as the 2 wifi antennas are not going to let you unless you let them carefully pull through the drone arms which is pretty easy. There's also power and gps connection restricting movement.

Before I forget when using locktite if it's possible only put it on the screw end if it's for the blade pins! If you put it on before you put it through the blade and yoke it will flow into the inside of the yoke and on the grommet in the prop and cause binding issues. The blades MUST freely move within the yokes or you are seriously risking a crash. I've found that even the new in package yuneek props have slightly raised plastic above the grommet and you should use something like a nail file to sand it down for free movement. Also had a package where one blades grommet wasnt quite right and I had to polish the inside of it to get free movement. Seller sent me another 4 pack for free so I swapped it out when they arrived.
Taking a break...
 
Last edited:
So I'm back again after writing most of it and once again losing it all. Somehow I hit so.ething else on the screen and google came up. VERY frustrated after spending another 45 minutes on this.

Where we left off is the next step is to let feed the wifi antennas down the front arms at least enough to give you room to tilt or wiggle the entire assembly to lift it out. I would recommend you just feed them all the way thru as it's easy enough to feed them back the other way during reassembly.
There are other things holding the assembly in ace though. You have the 2 power wires that are taped down to the shell with the power connector help in place by 2 screws. I didnt bother removing that as I found theres plenty of room to leave the tape in place also.
The other connector is the gps molex which runs from the top of the housing to the board and that's easy to pull out. Unless you have to replace th gps board theres no reason to do any thing but disconnect its molex.
The camera assembly can be removed by disconnecting the molex that powers the servo, removing the 4 screws and pulling out the plastic hold down for the ribbon cable pulling straight up on the ribbon cable. This cable is actually plugged into the wifi A9 board.
Now that ribbon cable is the only cable that connects by pushing it down and it's not hard to push it back in place but you need to study the alignment before pushing it down. It doesnt take much pressure to snap it back together so DONT try and force it. If it's not pretty easy you have the alignment wrong.
I haven't tried messing with the camera position yet and I dont know if I want to risk messing something up. DM and I would appreciate if the camera could tilt up slightly and we think even just a 1 tooth change might be enough even though we would lose it adjusting to straight down.
This brings up the issue that many have noticed about aiming the camera straight down and getting that straining servo sound. As DM noted, its do to the ribbon cable being a tiny bit too tight as it isnt the most flexible thing. His solution is to exercise the servo at that position maybe 20 times or so to loosen it just enough so it stops.
I tried this on one of mine and it does work but would like to suggest further action as I think it may come back after not using for awhile or when it's a cold day. I cant prove that this will fix it for good but I would suggest buying some clear spray silicone that comes out of the can looking like clear water. I'm not talking about silicone grease. You can buy it at any auto place or walmart. What you do is spray some into a little cup and apply it with a brush on both sides of the cable especially where it goes into the camera housing. It will make it super slick and help with the issue. I tried it on another camera without exercising it and it worked. The silicone is supposed to stay on it so it may be fixed now. I would still exercise the servo though with the camera assembly back in place.
Saving it....
 
Last edited:
Cautions with the silicone are I would not spray it right from the can because it's going to get on everything and you dont want it anywhere else especially on any camera lens and theres 4 in the unit. Dont know how you would get it off the lenses.
Dont spray it do it goes on your floor! Its unbelievably slick and you could very easily be walking across the floor and next thing you know you fell and hurt yourself. I had to look up how to remove it as both my wife and I almost had separate slips. If you want the slickest floors for sock sliding go for it:) Dont blame me for your broken limbs or concussion though;)
Moving on to the wifi module pull out the molex connector going to it and the 4 screws holding it. You will see the 2 wires fro. The wifi antennas connected to the board in 2 spots. These are easily removed by pulling straight up at the connectors and just snap on/off like a snap button. Make sure you have it nice and straight aligned before snapping back in place they take a but of force to snap back in. Theres really no reason to remove them unless you have a replacement board that doesnt come with the antennas. I just bought a used board and it's coming with the antennas attached. Cant help but wonder if I would get better reception if I added the 2 antennas from my failed board to those and fed the up the rear legs. Because they are simple 1 wire antennas I would expect much better wifi reception. Any comments on this? Could solder them to the other wires and try it. Would just need to change out the wires for longer ones or lengthen what's already there. Seem like regular wire to me and not anything special.
At this point you will be scratching your head as the wifi board seems to still be attached somehow and that's because there are 4 pads of varying sizes that have a bit of sticky to them that are still keeping it in place. From what I can tell they dont appear to be anything more than space makers to keep the board from touching the aluminum frame. No way they are thermal pads. You will just need to gently pull on the board to get it to separate from the frame. I did this whole disassembly twice as I decided I was going to take the wifi board from #4 to #5 as #5 looks like new.
When I pulled both boards away #4 left all the pads in place on the frame which was really nice and # 5 had the largest one stay on the board and it was easy to take it off and out it back in place on #4 frame as I'm going to replace that board. Happy to report #5 flew normal and was quite impressive with gusts just over 20mph yesterday. I have a vane annimometer to measure it myself. Just happened to have one from when I was working my commercial/industrial refrigeration job.

So where I am at this moment with my breeze drones is the only one not currently working is #4 but I have a used $25 wifi board coming by weeks end and it's already taken apart so it will take maybe 10 minutes to put back together. Seller claims it was fully working and I dont think they easily fail on their own.
On top of that I won an auction for another parts drone that just comes with the drone and the case for $36 free shipping that will likely mail today that's less than an hour away. I can see in the pics the bottom cover has a crack in it that I can repair and unfortunately is missing the ir glass piece. Drone #4 was missing both the ir and flow lenses but I was able to find a glass one for the flow in my Las ER r stuff and made a plastic one for the ir one. Looking around more I found 2 very slightly smaller clear glass pieces that I could replace the ir ones with as the ir sensor hoods are within the glass and a slightly larger one that I dont know if I can somehow dremel down without cracking that would fit perfect. I'm wondering about the coating on the original ones and if it's just an ir coating so I could buy a couple of cheap lenses on line to replace the clear ones with (plastics or glass depending on price) or not. I. Guessing yuneec wants lots of $ for them when I could just snatch up more parts drones for less $.
The reason why I paid the $25 for the used wifi board rather than waiting for the $36 parts drone #6 is everytime I buy a parts dtone they were easily repaired and if #6 comes easily repairable like #3, 4 and 5 then I wont still need a wifi board. What I'm finding is the average person purchasing a breeze has either no idea what to do for repair or doesnt have the skills or doesnt care yo even try or yuneec tells them it's going to be expensive to fix or just returns them or......
It's obvious that many larger ebay sellers are buying "lots" of things in "lots" for cheap and then reselling with minimum testing as they dont have the time or skills for repair. All about the $ and moving stuff quickly. A couple weeks ago right where I live maybe 15 minutes from me one of the pl places that I know that buys big lots of electronic stuff was selling something like 16 breeze for parts/repair for just over $300. If I knew then what I know now i could have likely repaired a lot of them or made quite the profit selling off the parts. No interest in selling stuff on ebay and for all I know they bricked all of them. Best reason not to buy them is I wouldnt sleep until I worked on all of them. I cant stand having things around that I know I can repair myself.

IF anyone wants me to replace a part for them I will do it for nothing more than maybe a set of OEM props as in just a 4 pack or $10 or nothing if your hurting for $. Only stipulations are I cannot be blamed for anything such as parts not working (I'm taking a chance myself on a used wifi board) and you obviously need to pay for shipping both ways. What I'm obviously saying is I cant be held accountable for what's wrong with your drone or the repairs it needs. Just because the 3 parts drones I've worked on so far were repairable doesnt mean that if you buy one on ebay it is also cheaply repaired. Going to be interesting reporting on what's actually wrong with the 6th one when it arrives. I give 98% chance that the used wifi board for drone #4 works and I already know that's all it needs.
Still thinking about some add on squishy feet for the breeze but dont like any of my solutions yet....

So about that irs board. I've seen multiple issues on that board on YouTube. I would say one of the problems is it should have had 3 screws to keep in place. There are in fact 3 screw holes but they only use one of them relying on the 4 pin solder connection to the board below it to keep it in place. This was a very poor decision on their part as solder connections are not supposed to be used for this purpose.
What I believe is happening with most of the issues you see when the irs warning comes up is those solder connections (or at least 1 of them) has intermittent contact due to the poor folder job. Either vibrations or impact has cracked the connections. I've seen many breeze videos where the irs glass has broken and it may be because the irs sensor metal that almost touches the glass has hit it. Drone $6 may one tomorrow may have this issue as that glass is gone. It can be repaired by desoldering the 4 posts and removing the board and soldering pins to the main board and resoldrring the irs board to it I would say but this shouldn't be happening to begin with.
IF you get the red irs error and you cant lift off because of it my bet is this is what has happened. Dont see how you are going to resolve the connections between the board as there isnt enough room. Its possible that you might be able to reflow it with a hot soldering iron but while knows. Dont think you will actually need a new board unless you really hit hard and manage to crack it or damage another component.
Watch out for the irs error when you fly when you shouldn't get it as it could indicate you have the solder connection issue. Intermittent irs errors would be a good indication of this.
I was just thinking you may be able to prevent the issue with some hot glue at the other corners although something like gorilla 5 minute epoxy would probably be better as it will still stick after shock.
 
Last edited:
Appreciate your rolling description of the disassembly process. I would like to work with you on this, to add photos and clean up the wording. I feel this could be a great How To for the Breeze. I want to keep you as author, and I’ll just edit the work. I think it would be nice to put it into a downloadable pdf in addition to being in the Breeze How To.
 
I hopefully sent you the message back privately but absolutely yes.
I think I just realized I forgot to mention something about the irs board. Need to take a shower break and then I'll add it. This whole thing is probably in the wrong section anyways.
By the way I know I'm writing poorly. I'm just letting it flow the way it's coming out of my head so I dont miss anything lol

Just added my 2 cents on the irs board problem to my last post.
 
Last edited:
Always appreciate your input.
My wife is currently driving us to my grandsons up in the adirondacks and we have a couple hours to go still so I figured it was a good time to fill in where things are at with the used drones since i did receive the second parts drone.
So, here's what I did and this has nothing to do with the second one I received:
Took it to church on Wednesday as there is a very large open area of about 1/4 paved and 3/4 grass. Let it countdown and liftoff to hover over grassy area from a marked flattened box and let it stay that way for maybe 10 seconds and did the standard land. And everything seemed fine.
So, decided to do it again with all parameters set to minimum again (using the controller as in the first time) but now test all the functions.
It hovers normal so I start testing functionality and it looks good when maybe 25 seconds in it starts doing weird stuff and goes up maybe 25 or so feet and it's obviously vibrating bad because 3 of the 4 prop protectors come off and something else looked weird. Motors stop and of course it comes straight down to the grass.
It's now got a couple cracks (but repairable) but most telling is one of the motors is hanging there to the side and all 3 screws that hold the motor in place are right in the position they would be in if the motor was still attached. All I can think of is either the motor female threads are stripped or they weren't screwed in properly with locktite. It's really really odd because I had spun all the motors and replaced the blades and they all were in the same position. In other words no way would I have expected that to happen.
So, i take out the motor screws and try each one in the motor threads and theres no indication at all that the threads on the screws or motors have any issue. Tried pulling hard on them and they dont move.
Packed it up at this point, went home and repaired everything including taking all motor screws out and back in using standard red locktite. Changed all blades again and gave it a rest to really let the epoxy and locktite set and haven't touched it since other than downloading the short crash video and making sure it all operates normal while connected but not flying.

Second parts drone came just in a bubble wrapped packing envelope so the blades were not in their perfect shape. I did try and get them back to normal as best I could but knew they weren't perfect. Keep in mind I was sent this one free because the first had issues.
Now the issues i could see with it were all of the plastic pieces that snap into the legs were missing but not that big a deal as the antennas were fine.
The bottom large plastic piece that has the windows for the indoor sensors were partially in place but broken and a couple tabs missing which frankly isnt surprising. I did "repair" the broken glass pieces with 2 clear plastic pieces from old flashlights that I had taken apart in the past when i was building lots of handheld lasers. They are both clear but I've seen a video that showed it flys just fine with the whole bottom piece off. The actual sensors looked normal and theres no visible damage to any board or the camera. When I'm checking this stuff I am comparing to one of my brand new breezes so I know how things should look and feel.
Of course being me I put a battery in it and everything hooks up normal so I run through resetting it and then calibration. All appears good to go and I wrap a layer of clear packing tape around each leg after repairing the cracks in them. It must have landed hard straight down since all 4 were damaged.
Will interject at this point and say that both of the used drones still had 5 or so videos and a couple pictures in them for downloading from the original owners. I think they both drones dates on the stuff were about a year ago but I'll have to take a look again. Kind of weird as you can see family members in some of them but be honest and ask yourself if you wouldn't look at them before deleting.
The first one seems like Christmas time and only has indoor flights that dont show a crash. The second ones I've downloaded but not looked at yet. Haven't deleted them yet from the drones but obviously going too.
Well I only have the 2 original sets of props that came with my new ones and decide I dont want to take a chance and mess them up before I go on this grandson visit so I'm going to test it without changing them all out after my attempted straightening job.
Now you may think that's not too smart but I've seen many vids with people flying fine and stable when their blades weren't the greatest. All I want to try is liftoff to hover and back down in my house and believe me, I've learned my lesson about verifying the GPS is off.
I'm in the smallish kitchen where I've taken off many times before with no issues with my new drones as the floor is bright. Unit starts and begins to lift but I can see that its wanting to lean to the left of me and before i can do anything as theres only about 2 feet max to the bottom cupboard which starts maybe 2-3" off the floor and it gets between that space managing to hit 4 blades up before it shuts down. At least I had the prop protectors on.
I honestly believe it would have been fine if I had just changed all the props. Knew I was taking a chance and at this point I'm changing them all before trying again.
That was yesterday and decided that I was done messing with them until I get back late Monday. Good time for a break.
So, that's my story so far...

Would like to know where everyone buys their OEM props from. Yuneek price is ridiculous as it's something like $48 for a complete set shipped in US to US.

Dont know if I get a reward for longest post but I've still got 45 minutes to destination. While writing I've been encompassed by the staggering beauty of fall in the adirondacks! Beyond amazing!!!
Pete

Props from eBay are very inexpensive...https://www.ebay.com/itm/8Pcs-Foldable-Propeller-Props-Main-Rotor-Blades-Yuneec-Breeze-4K-Camera-Drone/143181992355?epid=9030072962&hash=item21564fd1a3:g:NLkAAOSwDXxcbKzc
 
Props from eBay are very inexpensive...https://www.ebay.com/itm/8Pcs-Foldable-Propeller-Props-Main-Rotor-Blades-Yuneec-Breeze-4K-Camera-Drone/143181992355?epid=9030072962&hash=item21564fd1a3:g:NLkAAOSwDXxcbKzc
These do not appear to be Yuneec OEM blades for the Breeze. The listing says compatible with the Breeze 4K. This forum and other Yuneec forums are filled with the woes of pilots using non OEM props that failed in flight.

You also hijacked an ancient thread that was not really dealing with replacement props.
 

New Posts

Members online

Forum statistics

Threads
20,954
Messages
241,586
Members
27,284
Latest member
csandoval