I now have checked the position readings of the controller before I try to start the H plus, and it shows no readings on any movements of my sticks, and even the switchs show no changes! I have gotten into the Flight Control folder in the apps. Is there a fix for this?
1st Post! Attempting to adj curve of rudder stick for ST16s. Not at all familiar with the controller.
- Thread starter kartflyr
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OK. There are a couple things of interest in your description.
1.) First, you mentioned you got into the Flight Control App. If I understand where you mean, that's mainly a bunch of test procedures. Do you remember exactly what things you did while you were in that folder?
2.) The second is you essentially described a "Dead Hardware Monitor" condition. That condition is normally associated with a failed 2.4 GHz RF module. Did you make any changes that might affect the functionality of the transmitter? I guess that could also happen if you were fooling around in the "Controller Test" and found some way to disable everything at once (Maybe got into "ch_test"?). I'm really curious about what you did. As a check on this, please put the H Plus in bind mode and see if the Drone and Camera ID's will show up on the bind screen.
Where to go from here:
1.) First, try deleting the current Model. Create a new model, and see it the controls return.
I realized that my st16s was getting no readings at all, so I shut H plus and ST16s down and restarted everything again. This time the ST16s was getting readings and when I checked the sticks and switches I was getting readings from them, but very little control on the left and right sticks. They were very glitchy and most of the throw showed little change in their output readings. Most of what I did in the folder was...it showed 1st page J-1thru 4, and k-1 thru k-3. Next...it showed failed for all the pots and switches. I got all the switches run thru their positions and turn them green, but the sliders and the sticks never got the the green stage. Your right, the Controler Test. I did look around in the 'ch_test" but I don't think I did much there.
Since they seem to be communicating I didn't try the bind mode. I couldn't understand much of the ch_test so I believe I entered and left wo doing anything, so hopefully no damage there!
I shud also point out that I have no camera attached, and I did try to fly by holding on to the H plus, since I have not throttle control, or any control, and it did start up and tried to rise, but I was holdg on to it so I simply shut it down. It did start with no problem, but of coarse with no control whatsoever. I have three fully charged batteries and I was going to try to bring them down to 50% since I only have the OEM charger and they've been fully chgd for 2 days now.
Messing up the controller test is easy to do. First thing to try is rerun the test correctly. It's called by a different name in other controllers. How you access the test is different, and some have fewer controllers on the main screen, but the following video is a good guide. Pay particular attention to the importance of getting everything into center position before exiting the first round of the test. That is the key to success or failure of this test.
Both of these videos are done correctly. Almost all other YouTube videos are WRONG!
Both of these videos are done correctly. Almost all other YouTube videos are WRONG!
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@WTFDproject I have on many occasions had PM's and conversations with members that have claimed having a Plus when in fact it turns out they had a 480 (possibly the Pro version) and picked up the 'Plus' name by mistake. This is crucial here, as the ST-16S does not have the ability to adjust settings of channels like the ST-16 does and in the title of this thread the OP states he was trying to 'adjust curve of rudder stick'. This might not be the problem, but if he does have an ST-16 (480) and not an ST-16S (Plus) it could help isolate just what may be the problem.
Good point. @kartflyer, just to be sure, please confirm you have the HPlus and ST16S.
ThankYou, ThankYou, ThankYou WTFD. This is the first time actually posting and It Was Well Worth It!!! That video showed me things about the Controller Test I didn't understand, and now everything is aligned and working like new!! That's Great!! ThankYou Again!!!
Yes, I have and H plus and an ST16s. So what ur sayg is that I can't adjust the rudder curve on the
st16S? The rudder is very slow to turn the ship and I was hoping to get faster turning, but I am flying in my backyard, its half acre lot and plenty of room, but I'm keepg it below fence level so as not to disturb my neighbors and I'm flyg @ tortuse speed in sport because the Realsense freezes the ship too much. Its about 150 ft x maybe 15 ft wide area between the bushes. Anyway, haveg lots of fun practicing control, and now I might be able to continue###Thanks again! ...Ray PS- I appreciate the input from Ty Pilot also
st16S? The rudder is very slow to turn the ship and I was hoping to get faster turning, but I am flying in my backyard, its half acre lot and plenty of room, but I'm keepg it below fence level so as not to disturb my neighbors and I'm flyg @ tortuse speed in sport because the Realsense freezes the ship too much. Its about 150 ft x maybe 15 ft wide area between the bushes. Anyway, haveg lots of fun practicing control, and now I might be able to continue###Thanks again! ...Ray PS- I appreciate the input from Ty Pilot also
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BTW the reason I am flyg wo the C23 as U might hve guessd, I did do a very soft crash into a tall bush. My cam was slightly hanging where I cud see the wires, but only one boot gave way, but did not seem to be damaged, so I removed it from the plane. I used the trick of wrapg a small twist tie over the boot end and easily pulled it thru, but now its flush with the bottom plate, where the other three are each, the flat tops are about half the thickness of the plate recessed. I chkd my parts bag from OEM that came with the ship, and it contains three boots and one pin in the bag. But I don't see any pins on any of the 4 boots for this C23. And shud I just shove this boot in deeper to match the other three? I have seen videos and pic of the CG03 and the plate and gimbal while its being worked on but I can't find pix of the C23 being worked on to see what the bottom plate looks like in relation to the boots. Anyhow, any advise on this wud be much appreciated...Ray
No, not exactly. I had already been there so I knew how to get to those screens, but how I got there was, I had to leave the main screen and go into the android screen where lots of files are stored and find the one called Controller Test. I open that one and about 3 pages in I found a screen that looked like the video. From there I was able to pretty much follow the video and finish the process.
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This is my point 'those screens' (in the video) do NOT exist on an ST-16S (Typhoon H Plus)
I have owned, and extensively used (and documented) both the Typhoon H 480 and Typhoon H Plus and they simply are not similar - especially in the context of this thread. There is no way a Typhoon H Plus has any screen similar to those shown in the videos above posted by @WTFDproject and I only stress this because; to get you up and running requires us to know exactly which system we are talking about.
I'm not sure what you are describing. The mention of the pin makes me wonder if the three extra dampers were the same as originally used by the C23. The C23 originally came with gel filled dampers that did not use retainer pins. They leak Gel all over the place, and many folks replaced them with the hollow type dampers used by the CGo3+. Does the damper you replace look like the other three? Which damper type are you using?
Note the "Hollow Dampers" is an example type. Yuneec used a couple versions on the CG03+, but all were hollow, and only two of the four dampers used a plastic retainer pin.
Why not upload a picture of the camera, that'll confirm your model or even the top cover of the copter.
I have never posted pix or videos online and I don't have any idea how to go about it. I do know the difference between a C23 cam and a CG 03 cam and an H and an H+, including an ST16 and ST16s. The damper was only removed and reinstalled. I did not open the OEM bag which came with 2 gel filled dampners, one with a hole thru it, and a pin with a C clip. My C23 cam and gimbal did not have any pins, and was suspended by 4 gel filled dampners and of coarse no pins.
Yesterday, I forgot to ck postings. I have six bats and since I have prepared them all for storage, dischgd to ~30%, I spent the day recharging them after I had ckd the condition of the H+ and cam for flight worthiness in my backyard.
Everything was good, so today I am taking it out to the park for some flying. I did push the one boot (dampner) that I reinstalled down to even with the other 3. I am off! Thankyou all. I'll ck back if anyone else has further comments.
I'd still like to see some pix of the bottom plate of the gimbal showing the condition of the recess of lhe dampers.
Everything was good, so today I am taking it out to the park for some flying. I did push the one boot (dampner) that I reinstalled down to even with the other 3. I am off! Thankyou all. I'll ck back if anyone else has further comments.
I'd still like to see some pix of the bottom plate of the gimbal showing the condition of the recess of lhe dampers.
Hi, all! I flew again yesterday at a local park here in Simi Valley, Ca in Ventura Co, near LA. I flew late so I only flew one battery and the video came out fine. I don't know how to post it but I saw no evidence of shake. It seemed to be as good as it has always been. I viewed it on my Visio P 75 inch and as usual, the moving cars have a slight halting as they move down the street, but not nearly as bad as it was when the earlier videos were run on my 2016 HP17" HP laptop. The videos have much improved on my latest 17" GRAM LG laptop even though it has no dedicated video processor. It runs an Intel i-7 @1.8G with 16GB ram. Its a 64-bit OS. But my pans, both using the ship to rotate, and raising the landing gears and pang the camera, although I did both very slowly, were both a little jerky. Which was always the case. I shoot in the highest rate, 4K @ 60 fps. as I always do. Anyway, I am satisfied with the Hplus and C23 performance, so I am off again today for some more flying and videog. I will post some vids if I can figue out how to...Ray
