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Advice on custom typhoon h build

Joined
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Hey everyone so I'm making a custom typhoon h and I have a couple questions I need help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks in advance

Refer to pictures regarding questions

1) obstacle avoidance sonar sensor placement. Do you think I'm going to have any issue with the motor arms or landing gear to the right and left of the sonar sensor?

2) does anybody have a labeled diagram referring to the power pads on the mania ESC board where I can tap into to run wire light or an FPV video transmitter and camera?

3) What is the voltage supplied at the stock motor arm LED ports?

What would be the best placement for my antennas? Facing down at 90°from each other? Or can I just face them out at 90° from each other?
 

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You designed and printed your own H series replacement frame? Very nice work
 
You designed and printed your own H series replacement frame? Very nice work
No I can't take credit for the frame it's a hj550 I'm just utilizing the frame but making my own custom sensor brackets from extra fpv frame carbon fiber I have laying around ect
 
I have no idea what the operating FOV is on the sonar sensors. That said, the arms on the Typhoon H are angled upward and the sensors are mounted below the mounting points in the original design. I would suspect that you would get false positives with the sensors mounted as you show in your first photo.

Since the arms on your frame go straight out I suggest mounting the sensor below the level of the arms and angled down 10° to avoid getting false triggers.

You can pickup 5VDC from the mainboard connector that supplies the RealSense module.
 
I have no idea what the operating FOV is on the sonar sensors. That said, the arms on the Typhoon H are angled upward and the sensors are mounted below the mounting points in the original design. I would suspect that you would get false positives with the sensors mounted as you show in your first photo.

Since the arms on your frame go straight out I suggest mounting the sensor below the level of the arms and angled down 10° to avoid getting false triggers.

You can pickup 5VDC from the mainboard connector that supplies the RealSense module.
Ok thanks
 
IMG_1861.jpeg
This shows the power connections for the RealSense module at the mainboard of the H480.
 
Yes, two 5V pins and two ground. The other two are comms for the RealSense.
 
The 5V connection of RealSense is protected by a SMD fuse on the mainboard (same as camera). That's why it is a smart idea to use that one for external load. This avoids possible problems with on-board power supply on the ESC board due to external equipment (also during flight).

I would set the GPS module to a tower. Experiences from others done this are very good.
 
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The 2-wire to motor arm LED connector has 16V (battery voltage) without LED and ~10V (depending on color of the LED) with LED connected. None of the two pins have direct connection to ground or battery plus. So, this is not really a power supply but part of the LED driver or switch.
The LED itself consists of 3 LED on one chip + a 200Ohm resistor. If the LED is on 3.3V are on the resistor. Remains around 6V for the LED. That's why I think the LEDs are in series.

The antennas could be mounted where you want. It's only important that they are 90° to each other and not covered by the frame if it is carbon. Let it stay away from wires with high current (Battery, motors).
 
View attachment 30326
This shows the power connections for the RealSense module at the mainboard of the H480.
Hey thanks for the information regarding this. Do you know if I will be able to turn on and off that circuit by turning on and off the real sense, in my case accessory power? I'll do a little testing when I get home just figured I'd shoot you a message see if you reply before I get home.
 
Hey thanks for the information regarding this. Do you know if I will be able to turn on and off that circuit by turning on and off the real sense, in my case accessory power? I'll do a little testing when I get home just figured I'd shoot you a message see if you reply before I get home.
There is no switch for the power for the RealSense. Power is applied at startup and stays supplied until shutdown.

The switch for obstacle avoidance only enables or disables the use by the flight controller.
 
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Hey everyone i have some battery questions. On my custom build would it be possible to run 2 Typhoon h batteries with a splitter or would the system freak out? Also is that going to be too much weight?
 
You may encounter weight issues with 2 batteries if your new frame weighs more than the original H framework and shell.

If you use 2 at once make sure they match in capacity and run them in parallel.

From experience with capacity and weight the increase in capacity has only slight gain in flight time due to the increase in battery weight.
 
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You may encounter weight issues with 2 batteries if your new frame weighs more than the original H framework and shell.

If you use 2 at once make sure they match in capacity and run them in parallel.

From experience with capacity and weight the increase in capacity has only slight gain in flight time due to the increase in battery weight.
That's pretty much what I was thinking my response would be 🤣 thanks I appreciate the advice
 
If you plan on using a lightweight FPV camera on this custom build then you have the weight of the CGO3+ that you can use elsewhere.
 
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