Ajusting the throtle
- Thread starter Peter Fly
- Start date
Ouch.......Please don't use Channel Settings to check sticks. That can be dangerous. Use Hardware Monitor which is designed for that purpose. Open it up and recheck the sticks. Move them slowly and watch the graphs for smooth operation. If you see sluggish, jerky responses or the sticks are inconsistent when returning to center, they need cleaned. In fact, nearly all problems with the sticks require cleaning. After they are clean they must be rechecked in Hardware Monitor. If they work smoothly but still don't center correctly then you will need to do the ST16 calibration. Never do the calibration first. It's always the last step.
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NO,
i did a reset of my st16 and the stick was like that? ( I cant adjust anything in hardware monitor)The stick look ok now ....
but what about that
I did a gimbal calibration and it still turning around after 10 minutes ? what the ......
Helppppppppp please!!!
i did a reset of my st16 and the stick was like that? ( I cant adjust anything in hardware monitor)The stick look ok now ....
but what about that
I did a gimbal calibration and it still turning around after 10 minutes ? what the ......
Helppppppppp please!!!
Last edited:
Reboot the H and the ST16 and check it again. If it still rotates when both camera switches are in the UP position, tap the camera with a pencil to see if it will stop.
With both switches up it should not rotate. Is this what you mean? Wish I could tell you in French, but sadly I cannot.
Murray Martz
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This is really odd. My ST16 worked flawlessly up until yesterday, and then my gimbal kept rotating as well. After everything else was tried, I finally had to go to the calibration menu and calibrate it several times before it corrected the issue. I'm not too sure why at this point it was happening, but yes, the calibration was a last resort and did finally work.
We have had a lot of unusual heat lately, so I am thinking the heat from outside and then coming back in caused condensation and debris to be deposited on the sticks.
I am going to look at it again in a few days to see if the sticks are dead on or if the are messed again.
Curious Murray,
What do dirty sticks have to do with a gimbal that keeps rotating? No, I am not being sarcastic. I am trying to understand the correlation as I do not remember reading about this condition previously.
I can understand if the whole craft rotated on its own, the yaw stick would be suspect. Isn't the only thing controlling the gimbal rotation, when not forced forward, the gimbal pan knob?
Just trying to learn a perspective on this condition.
Jeff
I think he is referring to post #3 above. The OP had 2 issues. One was a stick and the other was the gimbal rotation.
Murray Martz
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Steve was correct
I could have been a little more clear about it. One led to the other. First was the gimbal that required to be calibrated through the hidden menu, the second may have been caused by the weather, but was also corrected in the hidden menu.
The weather outside was hot and dry with a lot of wind and dust. Inside, it was nice and frosty with the A/C on. Having not blown out the motors before I went inside, I most likely left a lot of dust on them. The rapid change in air temperature would have caused mild condensation which when mixed with the dust was just the right combination to create dirty dead spots.
The only problem with jumping to the hidden menu before looking at physical causes is that the hidden menu in some ways is only a band aid to a possible larger issue. The hidden menu is for tweaking the software portion of the ST16, and with only looking to this as a solution, you can easily overlook what can turn out to be a problem with the physical part of the ST16.
When you use the hidden menu to tweak/calibrate your ST16, you are not repairing anything. What this actually does is this.....
The calibration looks at the areas that are not registering, then it creates a path in the software that it feels should be correct by either slowing down the software and signal, or speeding it up to give the appearance that the corresponding control is working properly.
The actual hardware itself will still have the underlying problem that at some point in time will need to be repaired. This becomes evident as you start to notice that a dial or control stick does not need to move as fast as it once may have to achieve the same result any more.
Think of it like this. A nice winding road with a lot of scenery goes from A to B, a pleasure to drive. Eventually the scenery becomes older and the trees start to die. A new temporary road is built between A and B but now has less curves as the new route still needs to have nice scenery or people won't want to drive it. End result is the same destination, slightly shorter and different route. Eventually the old route will have new trees planted to be re-opened and enjoyed again.
That in a nutshell is the ST16 hidden menu for calibration. As a last resort it will in most cases band aid the problem, but if the problem is physical, it still needs to be addressed in time.
