Anyone know where the integrated powerfuse to the CGO3+ is?
- Thread starter Sure Bet Drone and Design
- Start date
Not sure I follow this exactly. There are 3 wires from the main board to the camera. Two are power and one is a signal wire. The camera translates the signal to operate tilt and pan. The gimbal servos are powered and controlled by the camera imu board. I'm certainly making lots of guesses here. I'm no expert on these cameras.
Trying a different rx/tx combo is risky and doubtful.
Trying a different rx/tx combo is risky and doubtful.
I will try to clarify, I don't have a decent camera on hand to take photos. I am trying to put together a useful way to test the camera connection/connectivity wiring/connectors all the way from the Main power board through the slide rail contactors down to the camera gimbal connection. I am finding 4 wires out of the Main board to the First connection board (drone side spring connectors rail) this board has 5 pins but only 4 are used. There are 6 contactors on the rails, but only 4 are actually used.
I took the rail connection off the drone and connected it to the camera and tested continuity from the rail chip through the camera to the connection on the side of the gimbal. There are 6 wires, but only 4 connections to the camera side rail circuit board.
So the take home is this, if the cgo3+ is connected to the H on the rail, and the wiring plug is disconnected at the power board and again at the side of the camera (the 6 wire multi colored connection), you can test continuity all the way through the circuit from Main board to the Camera to make sure there are no shorts in the wiring. Does this make sense now?
I took the rail connection off the drone and connected it to the camera and tested continuity from the rail chip through the camera to the connection on the side of the gimbal. There are 6 wires, but only 4 connections to the camera side rail circuit board.
So the take home is this, if the cgo3+ is connected to the H on the rail, and the wiring plug is disconnected at the power board and again at the side of the camera (the 6 wire multi colored connection), you can test continuity all the way through the circuit from Main board to the Camera to make sure there are no shorts in the wiring. Does this make sense now?
So I just discovered I put the pins back in the connectors upside down and they were loose on the camera connection after I changed the gimbal wiring.. Explains how I accidentally shorted the camera wires too. Switching the wires right way now, will let know if it was the issue.
Blown fuses are a SYMPTOM & RESULT of a problem in the circuit...
I did indeed accidentally touched two pins while checking voltage that caused the short. I was trying to troubleshoot the no pan no tilt issue that was the original problem. Pan and tilt had worked initially when I loosly connected the camera and tested before I reassembled the top of the camera, and then once when I was test flying (not the first flight, 3 or 4th flight in). Oddly enough the only time it worked was when the camera was out of level position (started it upside down) and got camera stuck doing a spastic maneuver trying to level itself, when I turned the drone upright and I had to gently assist it to where it could get level on its own and Pan tilt worked that one flight. Unfortunately pan and tilt hasn't worked since that time. I have tried to duplicate it but no luck since then. That is why this is so frustrating, It worked just enough to give me hope this is repairable.
I ended up taking a fuse off my bad power distribution board and soldering it onto the new power distribution board with the blown fuse, and it worked. well it sort of worked, it got power to the camera again, but I still had no pan or tilt, which is how I blew the fuse troubleshooting that issue... I started to tear open the H again to check the wiring, and in doing so I realized I had used the old original FC plugged into the new power board. Theoretically this should have made no difference whatsoever, but I decided to swap out the FC board and lo and behold, the pan and tilt worked finally! I can only speculate at this point, but I think the original "first" FC was bad from the start, which would explain my original fly away "crash" for lack of a better term... I have been flying my H now for about six months, I have probably 60-80 hours on her now, not a single problem since then from a flight operations perspective.. It was a eal buggar to troubleshoot..., I do know the internals of the H better than I ever wanted to....
I should add that I ended up replacing the gimal wiring too, as they had ripped during the fly away crash. and were not repairable.
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