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Bat Talk

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Hello gang,

Just wondering if it is possible to calibrate the end points of the H+ battery? I would like to drop the voltage to 0% and then charge back up to 100% (cycle)
 
Hello gang,
Just wondering if it is possible to calibrate the end points of the H+ battery? I would like to drop the voltage to 0% and then charge back up to 100% (cycle)
Discharging below 3.7 volts per cell will shorten the life of the battery. I would consider that as 0%. Better still would be 3.8 volts.
 
Discharging below 3.7 volts per cell will shorten the life of the battery. I would consider that as 0%. Better still would be 3.8 volts.

True for storage.

LiPo batteries can be brought down to 0% - 10% (not for storage) and charge back up (at room temp) to 100% to calibrate the battery’s end points.
 
I do not know the actual voltage of a LiHV battery at 0% as indicated on the controller. It most certainly isn't 0 volts. It's possible it may be around 3.5 v.
I'm also unaware of the need to calibrate Lipo battery end points which are used with Li-ion batteries. All the literature I've seen cautions against discharging Lipo's to any low state since that results in damage to the battery and shortens the battery life.
It will be interesting to see your results.
 
The only time I have seen the need to cycle a battery like that is if it was a smart battery. Seems over time the smart arthrogram gets shorter and shorter so you need to basically give it a new memory start to use the whole battery. Even then its maybe once every 3 months.
 
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Lipos generally do not need, nor do they benefit from, cycling.
For those that want to do it anyhow, the drop dead voltage on a LiPo, including LiHV, is 3.0 volts per cell. I would use 3.1 to add in a little buffer.So a cutoff voltage of 12.4 volts for our packs.
 
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Lipos generally do not need, nor do they benefit from, cycling.
For those that want to do it anyhow, the drop dead voltage on a LiPo, including LiHV, is 3.0 volts per cell. I would use 3.1 to add in a little buffer.So a cutoff voltage of 12.4 volts for our packs.

When cells haven't been used for a while, or when new, less performance the first flight/drive. LiPo needs a cycle to get back to full, looking back at my battery logs, I went beyond 20 charges. I have the DY5 charger and love how it spoiled me, when it comes to the ease of charging and storage.

Deep cycling t's not really needed, but if you want the best performance after storing, a cycle check if beneficial to wake up the batteries. Or a good habit after 10-20 flights.

3.1v? Good to know, because, I was thinking 3.3v. I might do a lightbulb dyi to get the cells down to a safe voltage.
 
venom has a charger for the h plus and h520 that has the ability to cycle the batteries.

I sent them an email and will call them this morning of how low their cycling capacity. I honestly, I not see this charger, when I was in the market for one. Thank you [emoji1431]
 
The only time I have seen the need to cycle a battery like that is if it was a smart battery. Seems over time the smart arthrogram gets shorter and shorter so you need to basically give it a new memory start to use the whole battery. Even then its maybe once every 3 months.

Yep! The downfall of smart batteries, and the cycling methods learned from flying DJI products, and it’s a headache [emoji856]
 
When cells haven't been used for a while, or when new, less performance the first flight/drive. LiPo needs a cycle to get back to full, looking back at my battery logs, I went beyond 20 charges. I have the DY5 charger and love how it spoiled me, when it comes to the ease of charging and storage.

Deep cycling t's not really needed, but if you want the best performance after storing, a cycle check if beneficial to wake up the batteries. Or a good habit after 10-20 flights.

3.1v? Good to know, because, I was thinking 3.3v. I might do a lightbulb dyi to get the cells down to a safe voltage.


Good enough. Just passing along my opinion based on a few years of running lipos in a large variety of applications.
 
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