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BIG and frightening problem since last update

Could placing counter weight off set that lean. when does it start right off the bat at takeoff or mid flight.
It starts a few minutes after takeoff. It’s not persistent but happens occasionally and it’s very unpredictable. The camera view slowly starts leaning until it’s about a 45 degree horizontal shift. The problem does resolve it self but sometimes requires a reboot. Happens even when the camera is facing straight down.
 
okay wonder if something sticking the that place in the camera. with camera off how freely can you move the camera head horizontal wise .
 
I'm pretty sure you are saying the issue began after the update. Please correct me if the problem existed before the update.

A couple thoughts come to mind:
1.) An update/firmware issue? One thing that seems clear over the last few years is that not all kits respond the same to the same update. It might help to restore the previous version and try the update again.
2.) A hardware issue? If you did a compass/accelerometer calibration after the update, did you have the gimbal lock in place? The camera flopping around during calibration can damage the ribbons inside the camera. What you describe sounds a little like one of the four IMU conductors in the ribbon is having some resistance issues that change as the camera heats up/cools down. (And yes, there are also some issues that can arise if the lock IS in place. Seems like Yuneec presented us with something of a "choose your poison" situation.)
 
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I'm pretty sure you are saying the issue began after the update. Please correct me if the problem existed before the update.

A couple thoughts come to mind:
1.) An update/firmware issue? One thing that seems clear over the last few years is that not all kits respond the same to the same update. It might help to restore the previous version and try the update again.
2.) A hardware issue? If you did a compass/accelerometer calibration after the update, did you have the gimbal lock in place? The camera flopping around during calibration can damage the ribbons inside the camera. What you describe sounds a little like one of the four IMU conductors in the ribbon is having some resistance issues that change as the camera heats up/cools down. (And yes, there are also some issues that can arise if the lock IS in place. Seems like Yuneec presented us with something of a "choose your poison" situation.)
The gimbal moves freely. I’ve had an issue where the gimbal camera leans to the side before but it only happened once before. I also had it where it was spinning upwards as well, happened on the same day. After the update I noticed the lean but it went away eventually. I’m thinking hardware issue? Also, it happens on days when the weather is cold, usually below 35 degrees Fahrenheit. Didn’t think about the gimbal lock before but you make a great point. I’m gonna look into buying one or making one if possible. I should note as well that the camera leans to one side even when it’s facing straight down, makes it look like it’s hanging by a string on the screen.
 
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2.) A hardware issue? If you did a compass/accelerometer calibration after the update, did you have the gimbal lock in place? The camera flopping around during calibration can damage the ribbons inside the camera.

I had a problem on e90 after an update and it was hardware. Yuneec change the imu and all is ok now. Perhaps beacause of the calibration after update ?
I have a question for the calibration : how to process to avoid to damage the gimbal ? Is it possible to turn it off and to lock the camera ? thanks for your help !
 
I have a question for the calibration : how to process to avoid to damage the gimbal ? Is it possible to turn it off and to lock the camera ? thanks for your help !
@geoek,
The way I do it:
1.)Power up the drone
2.)Center the camera so that it is in the same position it is in when the gimbal lock is installed.
3.) Install the gimbal lock.
4.) Proceed with the calibrations.

Others have expressed a valid concern the motors will be stressed by trying to move the camera against the Lock. That is true. It is also true the motors will be constantly fighting to return to center if it is flopping around. I have found no information from the manufacturer to support either opinion. I can only go by my own observations. I have repaired a LOT of cameras with damaged ribbons. I have yet to repair any camera due to a burned out motor.

I would add that motors and gimbal boards are available if needed. One of the vulnerable ribbons is not available. The other two vulnerable ribbons are sometimes available, but sometimes hard to find.
 
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@geoek,
The way I do it:
1.)Power up the drone
2.)Center the camera so that it is in the same position it is in when the gimbal lock is installed.
3.) Install the gimbal lock.
4.) Proceed with the calibrations.

Others have expressed a valid concern the motors will be stressed by trying to move the camera against the Lock. That is true. It is also true the motors will be constantly fighting to return to center if it is flopping around. I have found no information from the manufacturer to support either opinion. I can only go by my own observations. I have repaired a LOT of cameras with damaged ribbons. I have yet to repair any camera due to a burned out motor.

I would add that motors and gimbal boards are available if needed. One of the vulnerable ribbons is not available. The other two vulnerable ribbons are sometimes available, but sometimes hard to find.
Thanks for sharing your experience. However, i don't have the gimbal lock. I always get off the caméra after each flight and store it in the package.
Do you know if it is possible to buy (or print) this item (gimbal lock)?
 
Thanks for sharing your experience. However, i don't have the gimbal lock. I always get off the caméra after each flight and store it in the package.
Do you know if it is possible to buy (or print) this item (gimbal lock)?
I don't see them listed on the Yuneec Skins website, but he has a LOT of stuff that is not listed. Contact John Mitchell at :
 
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I fully agree with you, but 14 satellites should be enough and GPS symbol was in green colour.
But it also has to do with the SnR (quality of signal) and that environment will cause issues. Depending upon where you are you need to maintain line of site with the main satellite paths. In Texas it is the southern horizon.
 
I agree, My eyes aren't that great at my age and my limit is about 350m (about 1200'). When I hear of pilots claiming they can see and manouver the H at distances over 3000' , 5000' or 8000'... I find it hard to believe..... Those pilots must have ocular implants from eagles!!!
 
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I agree, My eyes aren't that great at my age and my limit is about 350m (about 1200'). When I hear of pilots claiming they can see and manouver the H at distances over 3000' , 5000' or 8000'... I find it hard to believe..... Those pilots must have ocular implants from eagles!!!
Yep, the key is maneuvering immediately. I have about as good of natural site as you can have and I can 'figure out" the orientation of an H520 at 3500ft on the best days from a good vantage point. Basically meaning that I have to manipulate the controls in order to match right/left to know that it is pointing away from me or the opposite, but if a chopper came out if nowhere I'd be screwed.
 
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I have no need to do any further testing of the firmware on the first gen h520. This unit is more suitable for basic mission training in out in back country setting. Current payloads not suitable for edge of town or in low density suburbs. H520e radio system and revamp gimbal payload proven very effective in suburban areas.
 
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I have no need to do any further testing of the firmware on the first gen h520. This unit is more suitable for basic mission training in out in back country setting. Current payloads not suitable for edge of town or in low density suburbs. H520e radio system and revamp gimbal payload proven very effective in suburban areas.
Our v1 H520's are two versions back on pretty much all the firmware because they just work. DataPilot has stayed updated though.
 

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