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Exposure Testing

Joined
Nov 25, 2016
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Hi all, I just thought I would create a short post about the camera and how to really get the best results.

We produce a Television program here is Australia and quite often have issues with footage shot on cameras using electronic shutter due to its progressive nature.

When used in an interlaced environment (50i sometimes referred to 25i) we experience jerky footage especially in panning motions as the image draws in lines when interlaced.

Our second issue is with noise in the images, whites strobing etc.

Well after much trial and error I think I can honestly say I have the settings to use.

First thing with the CGO3+ turn of gorgeous mode, this produced so much strobing and noise for me.

I also tried RAW mode but this seems to be jerky, maybe a data rate issue writing to the card, I honestly don't know, but Normal works great!

Secondly lock the white balance, it is easy enough to do and makes a huge difference. To do this select your white balance, for example sunny, and click the lock.

In Australia as I mentioned we are 25 fps or 50i, so turn that camera to 50p. This gives double the frame rate required and can easily be converted to 25 fps interlaced or 25p for that matter as you have the data.

Last but not least learn the 180 degree shutter rule, that is to say if shooting at 50fps you need to shoot at 1/100 sec. To achieve this you will probably need ND filters, believe me they are worth the money.

The 180 degree shutter will give you far smoother footage with a natural look to movement and remove any jitters and also seems to help with noise and strobing.

Here is a couple of very short clips to show what I mean and the one with the ND16 filter I should have shot with the ND8, it is about 1 stop under.

I think it will grade up ok though.

If you do only use the standard UV filter knock -0.5 of a step off the exposure to keep some detail and minimise the noise and strobing.


 
Gekko, thanks for the tips:). I'm already doing most of these, but also juggling ISO to lock exposure at '180 degree shutter', but I do like gorgeous especially when things are so drab in mid-winter. I'll try Normal and guess I'll have to do more work in post! Ah well, it'll soon be the solstice and after that the days get longer:).
 
Yeah Graham I think it is better done in Post and keep the noise out. We have material submitted by other operators and the images are just to "live" or "hot" to do anything in post. My colourist prefers it slightly under than over as you have the data to work with, hence if on auto exposure go 1/2 a stop under (-0.5) we work on Sony grade A monitors so I get the most accurate of vision to judge from rather then a computer screen which hides a lot.

Good luck!
 
Yes, about a half stop under; never thought I'd use the exposure histogram, but it's more reliable than my eyes. You have a colourist? Maybe I should train the wife up:D?
 
As an afterthought, do you think there would be any benefit from changing the in-camera sharpness of the image in the Normal setting? This can be done by altering a code in the software; viz, (from an earlier posting) you can check your sharpness setting by entering this into a web browser and it should return a number between 0 and 10. 0 being the lowest and 10 being the highest.

http://192.168.42.1/cgi-bin/cgi?CMD=GET_SHARPNESS


Now to change the value you can enter this. Just change the last number to the value you want. Most people choose "8"

http://192.168.42.1/cgi-bin/cgi?CMD=...RPNESS&value=5
 
Is that using the GUI?

Have never used and am on Mac?!@&$

Maybe I would build a virtual machine
 
I gleaned this from a post from somebody who knows more than I do (not difficult). My laptop doesn't do 5.8, and I have the impression sharpness has improved with the updates, so I haven't tried this.

Connect to the camera with your smartphone or Ipad or computer. Your laptop or desktop computer MUST support 802.11a or ac (5.8GHz).
If it only supports 802.11b/g/n, it's 2.4GHz only and you'll need an adapter. If your computer does not support 802.11ac, you can buy a USB adapter that will allow it to.

You can check your sharpness setting by entering this into a web browser and it should return a number between 0 and 10. 0 being the lowest and 10 being the highest.

http://192.168.42.1/cgi-bin/cgi?CMD=GET_SHARPNESS


Now to change the value you can enter this. Just change the last number to the value you want. Most people choose "8"

http://192.168.42.1/cgi-bin/cgi?CMD=...RPNESS&value=5
 
I've also heard that increasing an IP camera's default sharpness in this way can also increase the bandwidth requirements of the camera so keep that in mind when playing with these settings.
 
I gleaned this from a post from somebody who knows more than I do (not difficult). My laptop doesn't do 5.8, and I have the impression sharpness has improved with the updates, so I haven't tried this.

Connect to the camera with your smartphone or Ipad or computer. Your laptop or desktop computer MUST support 802.11a or ac (5.8GHz).
If it only supports 802.11b/g/n, it's 2.4GHz only and you'll need an adapter. If your computer does not support 802.11ac, you can buy a USB adapter that will allow it to.

You can check your sharpness setting by entering this into a web browser and it should return a number between 0 and 10. 0 being the lowest and 10 being the highest.

http://192.168.42.1/cgi-bin/cgi?CMD=GET_SHARPNESS


Now to change the value you can enter this. Just change the last number to the value you want. Most people choose "8"

http://192.168.42.1/cgi-bin/cgi?CMD=...RPNESS&value=5

I'm not understanding how to use these links. I entered them on my Win10 PC and nothing happened.
 
Unless you have 5.8 WiFi on your PC it will not work. Use your smart phone and connect to the cameras WiFi and type the commands or copy and paste them into your web browser on the smart phone
 
Thanks. My modem/router has 5.8 WiFi but not the computer itself. I assume I need the CGO3 app on my cell phone to connect to the camera. I'll give a try.
 
No you just need to go to settings and look for the CGO WiFi. You might need to input the password to connect. 1234567890
 
First of all, your laptop or desktop computer MUST support 802.11a or ac (5.8GHz).
If it only supports 802.11b/g/n, it's 2.4GHz only and you'll need an adapter.
You can find out if it does by checking the wifi specs on your computer.
Another way is to turn on your quad, look for new networks and check to see
if it can find the camera. For example, my camera shows up as "CGO3_610A42".
If your computer does not support 802.11ac, you can buy a USB adapter that
will allow it to. You can get a tiny one that looks like the type for wireless keyboards

Something like this. This one is out of stock but I just used it as reference.
Rosewill RNX-N150UBE Wireless Adapter (1T1R) IEEE 802.11b/g, IEEE 802.11n Draft 2.0 USB 2.0 Up to 150Mbps Wireless Data Rates 64/128-bit WEP (Hex & ASCII), WPA/WPA2, WPA(TKIP with IEEE 802.1x)/WPA2(AE-Newegg.com
 
Just quick update, we flew for 1 hour today and tested every sharpness setting from 5 to 0, 6 is standard. We have decided that raw is the best as we get very little moire effect or aliasing. We lift the saturation in post and looks great.
 
Most cameras come to the user set to 5 or 6. Depending on what you are shooting 8 works out pretty well. In reply to an earlier question, it does appear sharpness has been improved in later cameras set to 6.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
Sharpness introduces moire and aliasing. Lower the better we thinking here. Can sharpen in post
 

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