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FPV - goggle recommendation

If you are using the HDmI out to the goggles then there really should not be any extra lag I would think.
 
I wonder if it will work with my Fat Shark goggles.
 
I fly predominately FPV with googles. Several years now and specifically closing in on one year with the H.

1) LOS is actually really boring.
2) I flew LOS yesterday at pre-dawn trying to catch moonbeams (failed). It is tough looking at the H, then the display, then the H, then the display to frame the shot, then the H, then the display .. and so on. It is to me disorientating and I really can't the frame the shot as well. I don't feel connected to the bird. I didn't loose the moonbeams due to LOS: they just did not want to play with me.
3) At 50 yards with LOS I can't tell the actual distance to the subject I am filming - 1 foot, 5 feet, 10 feet? With FPV, at 10 yards to 100 yards to 300 yards I know I am a few feet away.
4) WIFI in the H is awesome with FPV. The prior 5.8 analog was always like watching a 60's TV show where you can see the main characters but not a lot of detail and a lot of blurry edges. The WIFI HD with the H is terrific with the detail. I have no lagging effect - including 1 foot (or less) over ocean waves. I do not fly fast and do not race.
5) Lateral movements (rolling right or left) while looking ahead are difficult. There are no side mirrors. You have to know your area you are flying in and have a spotter for doing FPV.
6) Low flying over waves is incredible with the HD FPV on the H. It really is.
7) Knowing the shot you are getting with the feeling of the sitting in the camera is great. I am still 'slowing' down the shots and trying to hold on to the 10 second rule for video, but flying with the shot and adjusting to the immediate condition in front of you is compelling.
8) Another issue is not being able to adjust the ST16 touch screen. Pretty much once the googles are on, your video and photo settings and other touch screen options are off limits.
9) You have to know the position of the other control switches for camera tilt, rabbit/turtle slide, landing gear, RTH, etc., without looking. No kidding.
10) It takes a bit to get orientated to direction the H is relative to yourself. Be sure you are facing the H during flight and pointing the ST16 at it; sit up straight, don't get hunched over; don't get sea-sick as this happens initially; be able to rip the googles off and face directly the H and know the orientation and fly it back; be aware of people around you (really don't even try it in populated areas - FPV or not).
11) Work with the big green arrow to gain confidence in flying the H back to you based on that and not the actual view - i.e., trust the information the H gives you without actually seeing it. This includes altitude, speed, distance, direction. And especially voltage.
12) Actually get a practice drone and fly FPV in the backyard without overdoing it (no 200 foot flights, neighbors yard, chasing the cat, etc.) to get the orientation and sea-sickness out of the way.

Googles :
Headplay, but I will be purchasing the Avegant Glyph when I can as they allow a LOS and the FPV view. I am selling my old Fatshark googles as they do not compare at all.
 
Great input, thanks Windluv. I feel the same about trying to get the picture (video) right and looking at the H while flying, back and forth... I guess the most important thing is to have the ST16 display as is on the google display.
What is the 10 second rule?
 
I've been planing on using the Fatshark dominator HD3s with my H. Definitely overkill when it comes to just the H when the Skyviews are significantly cheaper and better resolution . But I already own the HD3s
 
Here's my solution. It's near FPV plus allows easy LOS and access to controls and touch screen. The cardboard shade is now attached to the Yuneec shade and clips onto the ST16 in the usual way. I added drugstore reading glasses to help my old eyes focus on the screen. Works great!
DSC08319-1-1.jpg DSC08321-1.jpg
 
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Great input, thanks Windluv. What is the 10 second rule?

Remember the original Star Wars "Stay on course, stay on course, almost there" when the pilot was on the attack run? Kind of the same : when you are on your planned video shot moving on the initial course (forward, laterally, backwards, circling) stay on course for ten seconds. Count it down. This is so you don't 'pull up' to quickly and miss the money shot. It seems much longer then what it is. When you get into post and edit it is often the last four seconds of that sequence that are the best.

I still have a hard time with this. Ten seconds can be a lot of ground covered by the H. I tend to plan a battery for exploring and flying, then a battery for the video sequencing. I still miss so many good sequences because I did not complete the pan, pulled out of a forward run to soon, was going along the beach and waves then turned out just missing the next wave coming in. It is complicated as we need to digest the flying information as well as maintain the shot. It is not 'still' photography at many, many levels.
 
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I totally see why publicity and add shots are done with a camera operator and a pilot, it´s like 2 professions need to be joined to get the right movements of the camera and the bird. Learning to fly and understanding the effects on video footage is quite a study and takes time and reviewing video and watching good footage and understanding what makes it good and and and . Having fun learning and love the quality of the H. Next thing to learn is editing and sound :)
 
Hi all,
would love to try flying my H with goggles, will any type work via HDMI or do I need to buy the Yuneec goggles?

Thanks
I've been using a modified welding helmet with a 7 inch monitor for years now and like it alot. (see photo). You can build one with an hdmi monitor that plugs into your tx with a cable for less than $100. You can also wear reading glasses if your old like me, to get a crystal clear image.

Tom
 

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I have the skyview goggles. They are good to use in team mode with two -16s. That is when I fly the drone the other guy sits down and operates the camera. I can also see what the camera sees, and the goggles aids in better viewing for the camera guy (especially in sunlight). Or, one also could use the wand, -16 and goggles in team mode also.
 
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I use the Eachine goggles two from Banggood. It's cheap and plug and play. The HDMI works flawless. Very immersive with it's 5 inch screen. It really helps to capture better footage. I never fly without it anymore.
 
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I also utilize the Skyview goggles, and I have mounted my
Gopro Session 5 on the TOP! That way, I have BOTH videos.
I have the headset just tight enough to not press my big nose,
and can FLIP them up to my forehead for Line of Sight. When
I do this flip, I have a two point stop (By Feel) on the Gopro
so I can keep IT directly forward. When I get better at both
flying the rig, and working Adobe Premiere Elements Video
editor - I will post a video or two! Its all good...
 
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