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If my ST16 doesn’t connect to my WiFi am I (Out of luck)?

Went to the yuneec website and when I click downloads it goes to the different models and then to a sales page with no clickable update information.
 
Thank you for your help @DoomMeister I was able to download the update the st16 using the SD card then I formated the card and loaded it with the H’s update and went back to it... it seems like the gimbal isn’t connect with the typhoon. It’s limp and lifeless. In the settings it doesn’t show the camera or gimbal. I made a video

Can I flight it without the camera linking up. Before I updated the firmware it I weighted it down and it went crazy with the beeping and almost lifted 10 pounds off the ground.
 
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Thank you for your help @DoomMeister I was able to download the update the st16 using the SD card then I formated the card and loaded it with the H’s update and went back to it... it seems like the gimbal isn’t connect with the typhoon. It’s limp and lifeless. In the settings it doesn’t show the camera or gimbal. I made a video

Can I flight it without the camera linking up. Before I updated the firmware it I weighted it down and it went crazy with the beeping and almost lifted 10 pounds off the ground.
You can remove the camera to make a flight. In fact that is advisable when doing a test flight.

I don’t understand why you are changing the camera selection to a CGO3 from the CGO3 Plus when you have the CGO3+ mounted on the aircraft. When you power on the aircraft what colors and sequence do you get on the camera status LED?

It sounds like you downloaded the v3.0 firmware update. You should follow the instructions seen in this video

 
I don’t know what to do about the camera as I’ve tried over and over to test the contacts out.
If the camera front LED lights up, then you have both voltage and continuity, and there is no need to check further.
However, if the Camera LED is NOT lit, we need to discuss two items;
1.) Not sure what you did to test the contacts out. Are you simply doing visual inspection? Have you checked either for voltage or for continuity?
2.) Also, you mentioned using a 3D printed mount. But you did not specify whether the 3D is the part of the mount on the Drone, the part of the mount that is on the Camera, or if it is both. This is an issue because the use of any aftermarket mount brings added suspicion of failed continuity.
 
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“Rick Sanchez you son of a *****” IT WORKED. AT 12:30 last night I had lift off. Thank you for your help and time everybody. I think it was the calibration that sealed the deal. The first time I try to fly it it took off sideways luckily no damage was done after I updated the ST 16 and calibrated the lights were different and the blinking stopped. Now for the camera. The mounts on the gimbal were broken when I got this H. purchased amount that goes on the camera which I replaced and did not touch the mount on the drone. Visual inspection only shows me nothing wrong with the Contacts or the mount. what are the numbers for continuity and voltage check or are there any schematics to help me with this issue
 
Also the right side landing gear has gone wet noodle, i ordered a new one as what looks like pivot joint is broken. Here’s a picture IMG_1591212227.710262.jpg
 
what are the numbers for continuity and voltage check or are there any schematics to help me with this issue
This drawing is Attachment 53 (Typhoon H / CG03+ Continuity) of the Document attached to the link below. It may help locate the issue. There are other articles in the document to help you with whatever you find wrong. See "Way To Fix Drones project"
CGo3+  TH Continuity-small.jpg
 
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Coming from the H
1&2 nothing
1&3 .3v
1&4 3.3v
Pulled the gimbal mount and its connects read the same. Do I need to take the whole shell off to get to connection source?
 
Yes. Sounds like the fuse is blown. Attachment 52 of the same document shows where the fuse is located, and the part number for ordering.

The blown fuse suggests you got some slipring damage when the camera mount came off. Be sure to check for shorts between the contact points as well as looking for continuity down through the camera.
 
Do I need to take the whole shell off to get to connection source?
Not the WHOLE shell. Just the top. 10 screws around the edge, and unplug the GPS as you lift the top. There are snaps at each shell opening where the arms come out. You'll probably have to squeeze in on the upper half while you push the first couple off, they get easier after the first one or two.
 
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I think I saw a video where someone took the top off to get inside. I should order the part now and hope it gets here before I want to fly it again.lol... I got a gimbal steady grip to test the gimbal not knowing it wasn’t made to fit the cgo3+ has anyone made modifications to make it work. If there is a contact schematics for the steady grip or cgo3 I should be able to do it
 
I think I saw a video where someone took the top off to get inside. I should order the part now and hope it gets here before I want to fly it again.lol... I got a gimbal steady grip to test the gimbal not knowing it wasn’t made to fit the cgo3+ has anyone made modifications to make it work. If there is a contact schematics for the steady grip or cgo3 I should be able to do it
The steady grip will fit well enough to see if the camera powers up. If it doesn't, you also need to worry about the slip ring or other camera damage.

If you mean the contacts between the SteadyGrip and the camera, they are the same as the Typhoon H, except the Steadygrip does not have the front set, so the green wire (Yaw PWM) does not get power.
Steady grip-small.jpg
 
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Nothing happened with the steady grip. I tested the contacts on the steady grip and I got good readings. I pulled the camera contacts and it looked fine but the red and yellow wire aren’t connected. Not sure if they were broken before or if I broke it taking it apart cause I wanna think that if the black and red are still connected then something should happen. I guess I’ll find out after I solder it.
 

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