The size it enlarges to when you click on it. That's usually the actual size when attached. It's 3960 x 1486 pixels.
ETA: it also says taken with a DJI? Or maybe you used that lens profile in post?
Is the camera as bad as people say? Take two!
- Thread starter Keith Harris
- Start date
ETA: it also says taken with a DJI? Or maybe you used that lens profile in post?
@ 3960X1486 I would never expect the image to hold up to anything larger than a 8X10 inch print. This is also a cropped image.
Did a comparison of the Bitrates Data wrappers, codecs and color space tonight between the DJI X3, the CGO3+ in each of its daylight modes and the GoPro Hero 4 Black
a few things the Yuneec frame rate will require transcoding to use in anything broadcast because its not at the correct 23.976fps and it seems that Yuneec is capping the variable bitrate to 50Mbps so no it will not go higher as some have suggested. they are also using an old codec that does have some decoding issues. The choice of format profile is also puzzling since its not optimized for 4K. It looks like one of the reasons that the exposures steps so bad is their choice in GOP frames, they are reading inter frames ever second where go pro is every half second and DJI is every 1/3rd second. Yuneec is also compressing their image more than DJI and GoPro
a few things the Yuneec frame rate will require transcoding to use in anything broadcast because its not at the correct 23.976fps and it seems that Yuneec is capping the variable bitrate to 50Mbps so no it will not go higher as some have suggested. they are also using an old codec that does have some decoding issues. The choice of format profile is also puzzling since its not optimized for 4K. It looks like one of the reasons that the exposures steps so bad is their choice in GOP frames, they are reading inter frames ever second where go pro is every half second and DJI is every 1/3rd second. Yuneec is also compressing their image more than DJI and GoPro
WOW! I have never seen this. No threads in the holder??? The len holder diameter is bigger than the lens itself and it just floats in its mount???
Ewwwwwwww . . . That's naaaaasssstyyyy
Fingers crossed I get an updated and focused version . . . Otherwise its "return to sender" for a corrected model. This is unacceptable inferior build quality . . .
Correct explanation Tuna.
Now, i´m in postpro working examples with several shots. Pushing the camera capabilities. I chose a scene from pre-sunset in a field of buildings. Sky and sun behind some white clouds. Very very bright up in the sky, and quite dark at the tree shadows down the street. Looking for Latitud, black blocking and super-whites that the cam can handle. All manual settings and allways selecting RAW.
Then converting the h264 original file to ProRes 422 HQ, 1:1.
Place in a FCP timeline and send to Color for detailed checks of color parades and bounderies.
HAVE TO SAY THAT THE RAW ENDS WITH A PINCH OF MAGENTA SHIFT. Corrigible easily with color channel gains and pedestals.
Have to say too, that this little cam (stock camera) makes a reasonably good work in this kind of difficult scene. The key is to target the right exposure. Having just 1 1/2 stops for mistake (dialing up or down)....then blocks blacks or blows whites in my opinion.
RAW is, in my opinion, flat enough for CC takeoff. Taking into account the limitations of the camera. Non sharppening at all. And not obvious moire or alliasing, its present but not distracting.....just under deep look i guess.
On location stuff: (the very basic to exist)
-Typhoon H
-ST-16
Next proof, i´ll build a modest "villa" with a HD monitor via ST-16 HDMI. To better judge the sweet spot exposure placement.
Keep learning...
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But how? you're still hanging around the forum? do not waste time....... your future is in the other brand
i think as a few people have mentioned, try some filters, i recently got the pack of three filters ND 4,8 &16 and what a difference it makes. good luck
Both the Phantom 4 and the Typhoon H use variable bit rates. The P4 limits the data output to 60Mb/s in all modes, meaning that it will capture as much detail as possible before hitting this ceiling in all picture modes, including DLog.
On the other hand, the H will only reach the 50Mb/s data limit on 'Gorgeous', on other modes it is actively dumping data where it has no need to except to make smaller video files. There's no reason it can't output 50MB/s on 'RAW', the sensor is capturing a lot more than this. The processor is compressing this data further and further, this is not a good thing no matter what claims are made here.
On the other hand, the H will only reach the 50Mb/s data limit on 'Gorgeous', on other modes it is actively dumping data where it has no need to except to make smaller video files. There's no reason it can't output 50MB/s on 'RAW', the sensor is capturing a lot more than this. The processor is compressing this data further and further, this is not a good thing no matter what claims are made here.
I too am concerned with all the talk about the CGO3+ on many levels... In the end, I'm not sure it's "fair" to compare this camera to a GoPro. GoPro is in the camera business and Yuneec is in the drone business -- YES, would love to have the perfect combination... And DJI seems to be doing pretty well with their camera/drones -- And of course their Osmo. And perhaps we can criticize GoPro with their yet to come to market drone -- Wonder how good their drone will be when it comes to market?
My first drone was the DJI Phantom 2 specifically without the camera since I wanted to use my GoPro because I had faith in their background as action cam manufactures.
I probably will upgrade the lens in my CGO3+ and, at least open it up and redo the focus to make sure it is sharp.
I look forward to seeing if there are any upgraded cameras we can look to in the future that will mount on the Typhoon H with ease....
My first drone was the DJI Phantom 2 specifically without the camera since I wanted to use my GoPro because I had faith in their background as action cam manufactures.
I probably will upgrade the lens in my CGO3+ and, at least open it up and redo the focus to make sure it is sharp.
I look forward to seeing if there are any upgraded cameras we can look to in the future that will mount on the Typhoon H with ease....
I'm behind some filter kit like yours, ND16 for sure and a pola too. BCos the idea for me is try to compensate exposure against SHUTTER speed.
In Video mode we just have Iso and Shutter.....then in sun/bright scenes even keeping at ISO 100 demands 1/800 - 1/1000........AND FAR FROM CINEMATIC motion so quested.
Which brand do you bought and gradation #?
I bought polar Pro yuneec typhoon filter 3 pack
Polar Pro ND Neutral Density Filters for Yuneec Typhoon 4K / H - 3 Pac – Marionville Models
Sent from my SM-G925F using Tapatalk
ND filters are very important in bright sunny shooting situations. As has been mentioned many times, when shooting at 100 ISO and 30FPS during a very sunny time of the day,your only option to to get a correct exposure is via a higher shutter speed. Going that route does work,but makes the video look unnatural. The use of the proper ND filter will correct the need for high shutter speeds and capture video @ as close to the fixed F stop on the H camera lens. Mind you this applies to video capture as in the still photo settings increasing shutter speed corrects for the over exposure,hence not the constant need to have an ND filter in place.
The H lens has a fixed aperture of F 2.8. Shooting video as close to that F stop will result in the best video images the lens can produce. ND is your friend!
FREEWELL YUNEEC, CHROMA, CGO3, CGO3+ VARIABLE ND2-400, 10 IN 1
Shooting in bright daylight, oftentimes it can be nearly impossible to shoot wide open without blowing out your exposure. Its easy to do so though, when you have a Variable Neutral Density or Variable ND filter.
A Variable ND filter is so useful because it is variable you can adjust in different level from ND2-400 which is equal to 10 normal ND filter function.
You can also use it as a substitute for something pros call riding iris, which means adjusting the exposure while you shoot as your scene changes in brightness. To do this, you rotate the filter and smoothly adjust the exposure as the lighting changes, like when panning from a darker area to a brighter one, all the time keeping the same f/stop and the same depth of field.
Whats Included
Variable ND 2-400 1PC
- Includes 10 in 1 function Variable ND 2-400 (Equals to 1 stop to 8 2/3 F stop )
- Easy installation
- Protect & suitable for Blade Chroma 4K / Typhoon Q500-4K / Typhoon H / CGO3 / CGO3+
Shooting in bright daylight, oftentimes it can be nearly impossible to shoot wide open without blowing out your exposure. Its easy to do so though, when you have a Variable Neutral Density or Variable ND filter.
A Variable ND filter is so useful because it is variable you can adjust in different level from ND2-400 which is equal to 10 normal ND filter function.
You can also use it as a substitute for something pros call riding iris, which means adjusting the exposure while you shoot as your scene changes in brightness. To do this, you rotate the filter and smoothly adjust the exposure as the lighting changes, like when panning from a darker area to a brighter one, all the time keeping the same f/stop and the same depth of field.
Whats Included
Variable ND 2-400 1PC
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