See post 83. I compared these, oem, mayech and autel.. there are all the same, except the 2x vs 4x I already mentioned, do it's just a question of how much you want to pay and how long wait to get.
MAYTECH CF PROPS FOR H
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Don't trim the post, it'll weaken it. Cotter pin (unlike tape) is centered. Minimal if any impact. Jam nut okay if post taller, but heavier than a star washer or cotter pin... (and the taller post adds weight too)
Im thinking since i make them hollow down the center maybe run a m4 tap and stick an allen button head screw down the center.
It will be designed by tommorow ill post pics for you guys and upload it to shapeways for you to buy them if youd like. The request was to have them 1/4" taller, with no vertical offset.
That sounds workable... .25" is about 6.3mm. Others that have the current adapter version would have better visual, but I would think 6mm is a bit too high unless you intend on collar washers and the top allen head screw. Wouldn't 6mm extend much higher than prop hub surface? But, that would allow fitting to the hub with minimal filing. Great Idea... ver3.
6mm higher is for the people who want to run a cotter pin. The current design will allow the allen button screw as long as it is tapped.
Ralphy, sounds like you'd have a multiuser adapter. Trim it fully off and basically have current version, side drill for cotter pin and trim for allen head. Would you be tapping it all the way through or User would need to finish tap?
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I’m talking stock Yuneec quick release hubs. Plastic ones. I could see where the aluminum quick release and those maytechs would not go together without some filing and grinding carefully.
Thats a 1/4" extension to the top the center hollow core is now at .1164" diameter. Its to large to tap without shearing the adapter due to the wall thickness being to thin. The nut on top or cotter pin might be best. I can model a smaller opening down the center with the thread inside already made during the 3d printing process. Im thinking like a m3 will work .
Thoughts??
Ralphy, The nut would work, but I'd agree... a M3 center using a SS M3 x 4, 6 or 8mm allen "button flang" head screw, would be secure and clean appearance. I've seen this size in nylon too if weight was a concern.
Great idea. I like this a lot better than cotter pins or counter-nuts. However, I'm leery of the walls being so thin. How about an M2 center? Gives a bit more strength to the walls. Keep in mind all that rotational torque that'll be transmitted through them, and even more if it goes into 5-rotor mode...
I’d agree M2 works well, little more material retained in walls and a button flange Allen head is easily available. Like the button flange being surface dia of button head & washer but 1/3 height.
Ralphy, put me down for 1 set SS.
Ralphy, put me down for 1 set SS.
Doug, I asked Ralphy to make a set be 8x (4 of each), so there's be spares. If you don't want the spares, you might want to say so.
FePhoenix, 2 spares are great, thanks for covering that.
Ralphy, duplicate FePhoenix order.
Looking forward to experimenting with these adapters
Ralphy, duplicate FePhoenix order.
Looking forward to experimenting with these adapters
Another thing I must mention. I asked that my set have all the same height: no offsets. I shortened the blades of my DJI- intended rotors a couple millimeters so they will not collide, even on the same plane. Be aware of this and either shorten your blades accordingly or ask for offsets.
Kris
Wow talk about a coincidence....the current ones actually are tight enough to run a 3mm rod in there. It actually screwed in. With a little tweaking it will be a little thicker wall with m3 thread. Hopefully the 3d printer can print that resolution but if not a m3 tap will clean things up. How much height do you guys want on the threaded part?
Barely more than the height of the hubs I showed you. I'll go get one off my H and micrometer it shortly.
The total height of the hub is 14mm. The unthreaded part (where you have the non-helical "threading") is 7.65mm, so the upper threads would be 7.4mm. this is for my application. If others need them taller, no worries.
Doug, if you get a set of the tri-blades, here's a view of how it looks assembled. The dar-hubbed rotor is upside-down. It looks lighter because the undersides have been sanded for balancing. The silver-hubbed on is top-up, as you can tell from the "normal" looking blades. Note that the blade pivot screws go in from below.
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