New Yuneec User - Setup ST16 Pro for use with Typhoon H480 - Which FW ? Any Dangers ??

[DMR - H480]

Just getting started with the Yuneec Typhoon aircraft, the price of used units is reasonable.

I have an ST16 Pro (3 antennas) that I want to use with a Typhoon H.

I don’t want to screw up the process so I am asking for some help on which FW is needed in the ST16 Pro and how to avoid any mistakes in setting it up for the H.

Thanks in advance

 

[DoomMeister]

You should check System Settings, About Controller and it should match the upper part of this screenshot.

To bind to the aircraft and camera follow this video.

Once you are bound to the aircraft and camera you can check their firmware versions in System Settings, About Controller in the lower portion of the screen.

 

[WTFDproject]

I don’t want to screw up the process so I am asking for some help on which FW is needed in the ST16 Pro and how to avoid any mistakes in setting it up for the H.
Thanks in advance

The firmware is the same between the original ST16 and the ST16 "Pro" version. The original had two antennas on the outside, one on the inside. The hardware is the same except the other antenna was moved outside to make it look like it has one more antenna. It doesn't.

Avoid mistakes?
Yeah. There are some mistakes that new folks often make. Some by doing. Some by NOT doing. Here are the biggies:
1.) Do a factory reset, create a new Model and bind to it. You have no idea what the previous owner has done to that controller. The previous owner might not even know. Do yourself a favor. Play it safe, clear out everything, and set the thing up as if it were a new controller.
2.) Channel Settings. The Channel settings were carried over from previous systems where the controller was purchased separately from the aircraft and had to be adaptable to an infinite number of aircraft. The ST16 flies the TH. That's all it flies. It's already set up to fly the TH, with no further need (OK, maybe some special cases. But that's a whole other thread.). The problem is this system is very easy to mess up. It is easy to change things without having any idea you even touched them. If you are not experienced in adjusting channel outputs, leave it alone. This is another area where the forum has a lot of sad history that did not need to happen. Channel settings can be turned off by disabling "Advanced Options" in the System Settings.
3.) Stay out of the "Hidden Menu" and especially the stick calibrations. That would be the third tale of woe related to big troubles caused by trying to do things that did not need to be done. The Hardware Monitor and the Final Output display will tell you if the sticks are working properly. If not, do the required maintenance. Do not try to calibrate around a maintenance issue.
4.) Firmware updates: The fourth tale of woe. Don't do them unless you have a need to do them. If the controller is working normally and doing everything you need it to do, leave it alone. This forum is loaded with sad stories of controllers that got bricked during failed updates. And most were being done just because they were available.

 

[DMR - H480]

The firmware is the same between the original ST16 and the ST16 "Pro" version. The original had two antennas on the outside, one on the inside. The hardware is the same except the other antenna was moved outside to make it look like it has one more antenna. It doesn't.

Avoid mistakes?
Yeah. There are some mistakes that new folks often make. Some by doing. Some by NOT doing. Here are the biggies:
1.) Do a factory reset, create a new Model and bind to it. You have no idea what the previous owner has done to that controller. The previous owner might not even know. Do yourself a favor. Play it safe, clear out everything, and set the thing up as if it were a new controller.
2.) Channel Settings. The Channel settings were carried over from previous systems where the controller was purchased separately from the aircraft and had to be adaptable to an infinite number of aircraft. The ST16 flies the TH. That's all it flies. It's already set up to fly the TH, with no further need (OK, maybe some special cases. But that's a whole other thread.). The problem is this system is very easy to mess up. It is easy to change things without having any idea you even touched them. If you are not experienced in adjusting channel outputs, leave it alone. This is another area where the forum has a lot of sad history that did not need to happen. Channel settings can be turned off by disabling "Advanced Options" in the System Settings.
3.) Stay out of the "Hidden Menu" and especially the stick calibrations. That would be the third tale of woe related to big troubles caused by trying to do things that did not need to be done. The Hardware Monitor and the Final Output display will tell you if the sticks are working properly. If not, do the required maintenance. Do not try to calibrate around a maintenance issue.
4.) Firmware updates: The fourth tale of woe. Don't do them unless you have a need to do them. If the controller is working normally and doing everything you need it to do, leave it alone. This forum is loaded with sad stories of controllers that got bricked during failed updates. And most were being done just because they were available.

Thank you, your information is very helpful.

 

[revedit1]

Avoid mistakes?
Yeah. There are some mistakes that new folks often make. Some by doing. Some by NOT doing. Here are the biggies:

3.) Stay out of the "Hidden Menu" and especially the stick calibrations. That would be the third tale of woe related to big troubles caused by trying to do things that did not need to be done. The Hardware Monitor and the Final Output display will tell you if the sticks are working properly. If not, do the required maintenance. Do not try to calibrate around a maintenance issue.

Edit: Just a question on this one because I did exactly what you're saying to stay away from here.

So, I seemed to successfully debug that neurotic beeping sound due to the ST16 being out of calibration with the Typhoon H by doing the cal in the secret menu. The only adverse reaction that I noticed is that I probably did not fully have the left scrolly tilt knob/switch in the exact middle, as the camera does not look all the way down now when the scrolly is all the way down.

But other than that all looks just fine. Anything else that I should be worried about at this point?

Thanks.

 

[WTFDproject]

Yes. The pot has corrosion in it. Your calibration hid the problem, so all looks fine now. But if the corrosion suddenly breaks away while in flight, you can have some unexpected issues.
The best thing to do now is clean the pots. It will be impossible now to tell if you get them clean, because the calibration replaced the original values. The best bet is to spray the pots with contract cleaner and stir them a lot. Then redo the calibration being sure to center everything before going to the second stage of the calibration.

 

[revedit1]

Yes. The pot has corrosion in it. Your calibration hid the problem, so all looks fine now. But if the corrosion suddenly breaks away while in flight, you can have some unexpected issues.
The best thing to do now is clean the pots. It will be impossible now to tell if you get them clean, because the calibration replaced the original values. The best bet is to spray the pots with contract cleaner and stir them a lot. Then redo the calibration being sure to center everything before going to the second stage of the calibration.

Thanks. First I wasn't able to calibrate them at all. J3 was stuck as a fail. Then I had a technician pop open the controller and sprayed a sort of cleaner on the pots and the calibration was a success.

Does this still seem risky?

Thanks.

 

[WTFDproject]

Not really. It's always a good idea to check the stick movement before each flight. If the sticks continue to look good, there seems to be little risk.

 

[revedit1]

Not really. It's always a good idea to check the stick movement before each flight. If the sticks continue to look good, there seems to be little risk.

Someone mentioned somewhere that DJI didn't have this problem so much with their sticks.

Has anyone considered swapping out the ST16 sticks with DJI sticks? Would they be compatible with the ST16?

 

[Vaklin]

https://www.analog.com/media/en/technical-documentation/application-notes/an-1150.pdf

A good starting point to prepare a "must-have" improvement on your controller.

 

[h-elsner]

Of course Hall effect gimbals are better choice than pots. But also with good pots a reliable stick is possible. Example: ST10(+). I never hat those problems with much older ST10/12 that comes with ST16. Not checked yet, but I think the gimbals are interchangeable.

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