Do they ?! That was a surprise to me
I would have thought that was a mad idea, but what do I know !
Of Batteries and the Typhoon H
- Thread starter PatR
- Start date
I would have thought that was a mad idea, but what do I know !
Don't know I can't take my HTC apart, there sealed.Do they ?! That was a surprise to me
FlushVision
Premium Pilot
Nope. I tracked it and it says 'Processing'. I'll get in touch with them on Monday.
FlushVision
Premium Pilot
I ordered mine on 11th June. I've not tracked it for a couple of days. I'll do a track later after the 6 o'clock news...can't miss my Boris Johnson fix
FlushVision
Premium Pilot
For those that still wait for the first low voltage warning to sound before they land, some voltage info you may find useful, as I have been conducting some tests that uses the low voltage warning as a consistent stop point.
The first low voltage warning occurs at 14.3V. The time it takes you to get the bird on the ground and shut down reduces that further, amount depending on time.
Battery voltage always “rebounds” after the motors are stopped. Usually this works out to be around 1/2V. For conversational purposes the voltage actually remains the same as current is what was actually reduced and Ohms Law makes it pretty clear that as current increases voltage decreases. As one increases the other decreases with the process reversing as demand is removed. Of couse what had been consumed is gone and stays gone until the charge cycle is initiated. So don’t depend on that “rebound” to be a good indicator of remaining battery capacity and always remember that as voltage decreases the ability to provide higher amperage decreases as well. The voltage under a current load is what you need to pay attention to as the current (in Amps) is what the aircraft needs to turn the props.
After you’re done flying and the battery is allowed to rest and cool voltage increases a little further. Of importance for those that fly to the voltage warning and set their batteries aside for days afterward thinking they landed at storage level voltage; None of the batteries I’ve been testing with have achieved storage level of 15.2V after even after 24 hours of cool down. The highest voltage achieved thus far has been 15.16V. So the batteries need to be put on a charger to bring them UP to storage voltage and balance the cells before you set them aside for awhile. The cell balancing is a very important part of storing batteries and they won’t be well balanced after a flight.
The point of all that is to let people know they are not done with a battery after landing at the low V warning. There’s still some work to do to obtain the most life from your batteries.
The first low voltage warning occurs at 14.3V. The time it takes you to get the bird on the ground and shut down reduces that further, amount depending on time.
Battery voltage always “rebounds” after the motors are stopped. Usually this works out to be around 1/2V. For conversational purposes the voltage actually remains the same as current is what was actually reduced and Ohms Law makes it pretty clear that as current increases voltage decreases. As one increases the other decreases with the process reversing as demand is removed. Of couse what had been consumed is gone and stays gone until the charge cycle is initiated. So don’t depend on that “rebound” to be a good indicator of remaining battery capacity and always remember that as voltage decreases the ability to provide higher amperage decreases as well. The voltage under a current load is what you need to pay attention to as the current (in Amps) is what the aircraft needs to turn the props.
After you’re done flying and the battery is allowed to rest and cool voltage increases a little further. Of importance for those that fly to the voltage warning and set their batteries aside for days afterward thinking they landed at storage level voltage; None of the batteries I’ve been testing with have achieved storage level of 15.2V after even after 24 hours of cool down. The highest voltage achieved thus far has been 15.16V. So the batteries need to be put on a charger to bring them UP to storage voltage and balance the cells before you set them aside for awhile. The cell balancing is a very important part of storing batteries and they won’t be well balanced after a flight.
The point of all that is to let people know they are not done with a battery after landing at the low V warning. There’s still some work to do to obtain the most life from your batteries.
Last edited:
Only ever went to warning once on one battery, 14.9 the lowest I go, when I get home the batteries are somewhere in the region of 50% to 53% a few minutes on the charger to bring back to storage, if that regime can give me a better performing battery for longer I'm happy, better I cut the flight short, than continually push the battery beyond its comfort zone.
Received today Thursday, Dated 2017. So still older stock hanging about still, since I got late 2018 batteries from Yuneec UK. Seems the Typhoon pro came with 2017 batteries and the standard 2016. Here they did anyway.
9 8 9 10. Voltage in cells very close, but that's only storage charge, not fully charged yet, see how it performs. I don't have anything lower even on brand new 2018/ 19 batteries from yuneec than 2 or 3 per cell, some 7 6 8 7 for 2018 batteries.
Last edited:
Just about all the aftermarket batteries I receive have IR values ranging from 1 to as high as 4 both before and after charging.
Not casting any aspersions but I expect lower than high single digits in new batteries.
Not casting any aspersions but I expect lower than high single digits in new batteries.
Lipo Killer
For those that have one or more old batteries in bad shape laying around, I came across a product named “Lipo Killer” at GetFPV.
There are lots of ways to fully discharge a battery for disposal, with this one being a take off of the light bulb discharge method, but this little device is cheap, ranging from $3.99 to $7.99 at various websites, pretty safe, and effective. It’s not fast, requiring a couple days to discharge a 7000mA battery. My checks established it discharges at only ~0.08A but it gets the job done safely, leaving a battery at end of discharge in a state of charge of less than 1V for the entire pack.
The downside is it is fitted with XT-60 and XT-30 connectors, making it incompatible with Yuneec connectors. However, those that use aftermarket chargers probably have aftermarket charge adapters laying around. A little brainstorming reveals a person can obtain a couple female banana plugs and an XT-60 connector to link an aftermarket charge adapter to a Lipo Killer.
If you don’t already have a favorite battery discharge for disposal method the Lipo Killer is worth considering.
For those that have one or more old batteries in bad shape laying around, I came across a product named “Lipo Killer” at GetFPV.
There are lots of ways to fully discharge a battery for disposal, with this one being a take off of the light bulb discharge method, but this little device is cheap, ranging from $3.99 to $7.99 at various websites, pretty safe, and effective. It’s not fast, requiring a couple days to discharge a 7000mA battery. My checks established it discharges at only ~0.08A but it gets the job done safely, leaving a battery at end of discharge in a state of charge of less than 1V for the entire pack.
The downside is it is fitted with XT-60 and XT-30 connectors, making it incompatible with Yuneec connectors. However, those that use aftermarket chargers probably have aftermarket charge adapters laying around. A little brainstorming reveals a person can obtain a couple female banana plugs and an XT-60 connector to link an aftermarket charge adapter to a Lipo Killer.
If you don’t already have a favorite battery discharge for disposal method the Lipo Killer is worth considering.
Been on other forums and read original Yuneec batteries aren't as low as expected, either an inferior battery construction or incorrectly stored, or they just deteriorate quicker.
I sort of attribute that to Yuneec going with the lowest bidder...
They did the same thing with their switch supplier. Don’t tighten the outer locking rings too much. If you do the locking ring will pull the top of the switch off the main switch body.
They did the same thing with their switch supplier. Don’t tighten the outer locking rings too much. If you do the locking ring will pull the top of the switch off the main switch body.
Ok guys, the adapter kit and the zop power 7500 mah pack have both arrived. Due to weather conditions I wasn’t able to do any testing yet but I did get some weights with some interesting results, see the attached photos below.
The first is the new battery alone
The second is the ultrax 6300
The third is Yuneec stock
The fourth is the new battery plus the adapter
(All measured in grams)
Flight test results to be posted soon
The first is the new battery alone
The second is the ultrax 6300
The third is Yuneec stock
The fourth is the new battery plus the adapter
(All measured in grams)
Flight test results to be posted soon
Nice weights!
The weight of the Yuneec battery suggests they have a much wider range of battery weights than I saw with the six I weighed. All of mine were over two years old and yours is >30g lighter than my lightest one.
The weight of the Yuneec battery suggests they have a much wider range of battery weights than I saw with the six I weighed. All of mine were over two years old and yours is >30g lighter than my lightest one.
That is very intriguing, makes you wonder what the difference is. Is it density of lithium material? Is it internal construction components?
Not definitively. All manufacturers try to find ways to improve their processes over time. Making the battery lighter means they may have found a way to reduce manufacturing costs with different components or assembly processes, which increases their profit margin.
