The wires on the eBay adapter are 14 AWG.What are those, 16AWG? The primary wires inside factory batteries are 14AWG while the main bard power supply wires are 12 AWG.
Thicker silicone insulation is not going to increase the conductivity. But the silicone material is not slippery, when insering and removing batteries, sliding against the silicone insulation. Repeatedly rubbing the battery, while insering and removing, will cause the silicone insulation to bunch up and tear apart.The primary reason for using silicone insulation, high count multi-strand wire is improved conductivity. An important consideration in battery powered devices requiring high efficiency. Secondary, a very close second, is flexibility.
It’s not cheap, but you already know that as you elected to use a less expensive, higher resistance, easier to solder type wire.
Thicker silicone insulation is not going to increase the conductivity. But the silicone material is not slippery, when insering and removing batteries, sliding against the silicone insulation. Repeatedly rubbing the battery, while insering and removing, will cause the silicone insulation to bunch up and tear apart.
Where the THHN insulation lets the battery slide past effortlessly with no wear from the battery repeatedly sliding past it.
Using wire with THHN insulation is not about cheaper and easier to solder, it's more about being the only option to make the adapter durable to handle repeated battery changes.
Like I said before, I've ordered the adapter and battery. I fully intend to swap out the smaller wire to 12 gauge. I think I will also run it to the outside of the adapter so there will be no chaffing issues. Remember that longer runs require larger wire.
During the course of the battery adapter mod work I’ve been seriously considering removing the OBS module to make use of the sonar openings as cooling air inlets.
What can make a difference is having a 12AWG wire exiting a battery that connects a 14AWG intermediary delivery wire which then connects to a 12AWG wire at the delivery end of the circuit. The 14AWG wire becomes a resistor.
Point well taken.Grumpy,
The length of the wire runs here are too short to be of significance. 14 or 12 won't make any differenc as long as the size is consistent from one end to the other. What can make a difference is having a 12AWG wire exiting a battery that connects a 14AWG intermediary delivery wire which then connects to a 12AWG wire at the delivery end of the circuit. The 14AWG wire becomes a resistor.
Grumpy,
The length of the wire runs here are too short to be of significance. 14 or 12 won't make any differenc as long as the size is consistent from one end to the other. What can make a difference is having a 12AWG wire exiting a battery that connects a 14AWG intermediary delivery wire which then connects to a 12AWG wire at the delivery end of the circuit. The 14AWG wire becomes a resistor.
That idea I really like. I have never felt I needed or am helped by the OA on the TH, and have never so much as turned it on other than once to check it worked initially.
Whereas I am rather consistently experiencing various anomalies with that craft's flight behaviour that could have a lot to do with heat build-up, so any extra cooling we could facilitate would be a very good thing in my book, and as you say, the holes are conveniently well-placed for that endeavour...
Presumably we'd need some sort of screen / mesh there to stop the ingress of nature without affecting airflow too much...
Strip 'em naked, no shell needed. Be as cool as a cucumber.I don’t see a screen or other device as much needed unless flying in a leafy environment. Far too many fully exposed systems have been flying without issue for a looooong time. However, none of them would trap and retain debris.
If you did screen the opening pretty much any non conductive material you could stick there with hot melt glue would do. I mention non conductive on the off chance it broke loose and ended up on the main board.
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