Of Batteries and the Typhoon H
- Thread starter PatR
- Start date
Ya gots ta have an arsenal, with a load out for every weapon, right?
You should have seen the battery “wall” at the place place I was working for, a 4’ long, 24” high stack of batteries. But they did things the smart way for their “in house” drones. They set them up so all of them use the same battery, either singular or in multiples, series or parallel. Same battery, same plug. Power supply inventory made easy.
You should have seen the battery “wall” at the place place I was working for, a 4’ long, 24” high stack of batteries. But they did things the smart way for their “in house” drones. They set them up so all of them use the same battery, either singular or in multiples, series or parallel. Same battery, same plug. Power supply inventory made easy.
- Joined
- Jul 4, 2017
- Messages
- 4,258
- Reaction score
- 2,025
Phaedrus
Premium Pilot
The snakeskin stuff is cool. Very popular in the heli world. I started using it on my planes and people acted like they were witnessing black magic or something.
When I'm building a lot I buy the stuff in bulk here: Techflex.com | Braided Sleeving Products A very wide selection of products for different applications.
Digikey and Mouser handle the stuff as well but you have to work harder reviewing their catalogs. Ain't none them cheap.
Digikey and Mouser handle the stuff as well but you have to work harder reviewing their catalogs. Ain't none them cheap.
I didn't get a chance to be involved with a cooling tower. I keep hearing about people wanting more venting. I only mentioned the vents being on the sides of the GPS module were openings that could release electrical interference.
But each time I think about cooling I wonder if we could add shielding all the way across under the GPS module area. This would cover the vent ports though. Next we could find a different cooling system.
I would want a cooling system that would use the air from the blades and not air from forward movement.
Last edited:
I suspect where you might be going with that question but I'm not going there. Short answer is highly likely with some hackin' and whackin". Bear in mind the battery connectors (2) had already been separated from the factory batteries before you inquired.
Last edited:
The guy that designed the cheap, crappy "cooling" mod that RPR and a few others have employed didn't have a clue.
An excellent product has already been designed, tested, proven, and available. Why re-invent the wheel? It would be some time before you completed enough testing to demonstrate consistent performance results. Some would think very poorly of you for trying to undercut the guy that put a lot of time and effort in designing a highly functional product. I would be among them for certain.
Think about your "air from the blades" concept for a moment. The propeller induced disturbed air column is well outside the body of the aircraft and that column isn't really a column, it's a cone. Second, take another look at the GPS/compass module. It's fully shielded regardless of the vent cut outs. Then again, perhaps you might try what another guy did and shield the entire GPS... His lamentations about crap positional stability were quite amusing.
There's a few different Chinese outfits that make them in various quality levels. Mine was obtained through Amazon a few years ago.
Amazon.com: ShareGoo Aluminum Welding Soldering Insulate Station Jig RC Tools for XT60 XT90 Deans Banana Plug Connector: Gateway
I have another I made from a scrap aluminum block for soldering bullet connectors and some pins. Just drill holes of the appropriate diameter and depth. The "handy little tool" has similar at the edges of the tool.
Phaedrus
Premium Pilot
Too funny. I buy from them as well. Hobby shops buy it bulk, cut it into shorter pieces and quadruple the price
Ya know, this thread, if for nothing else, should be helpful for people that haven't been exposed to this stuff to find out where to get different things.
Phaedrus,
Regarding that Tattu battery. As received state had cell IR's at 2-3-2-3. Voltage state was 15.something-v. Cell voltages were all even except for one and since I left the note pad out in the shop I'll have to give you the actual values later. Charging at 1C the battery took roughly 1:05:00 to reach 16.8v, all cells even. an hour after charging the IR's were 2-2-2-2. Total input was about 3200mA. That doesn't speak for what it will do under load but thus far there's no negative indicators. I'll check cell voltages and IR's again after discharging to storage tomorrow.
Regarding that Tattu battery. As received state had cell IR's at 2-3-2-3. Voltage state was 15.something-v. Cell voltages were all even except for one and since I left the note pad out in the shop I'll have to give you the actual values later. Charging at 1C the battery took roughly 1:05:00 to reach 16.8v, all cells even. an hour after charging the IR's were 2-2-2-2. Total input was about 3200mA. That doesn't speak for what it will do under load but thus far there's no negative indicators. I'll check cell voltages and IR's again after discharging to storage tomorrow.
I'm not sure we are on the same page.
Are you saying I am undercutting someone?
Maybe when I said I mentioned the vents, you may have thought I was referring to being involved in a thread about a cooling tower.
To be clear. In this thread I mentioned the vents near the GPS module may be source for some electrical interference. But I don't know anything about the cooling thread.
I'm in no way trying to undercut something to do with a cooling tower from another thread that I was never involved with.
Btw. What is this "excellent product has already been designed". Is this the cooling tower you are talking about?
I just now searched cooling tower and found a thread with photos of a tube coming out the top of the drone, that is inflating a bag. I have limited time and haven't yet had a chance to read through it.
What I have in my head is to remove the shell and use a Dremil to make openings in the top and bottom and see if the natural draft of the propellers will provide enough ventilation.
So I can cover the vents near the GPS module with shielding. Covering the vents near the GPS module with shielding could eliminate the need for a GPS adapter all together. The only thing we would need to buy would be the shielding tape.
Last edited:
There have been two modified cooling designs. One by Johnno Hennessey who expended the time and effort to perform a lot of thermal and color testing while designing an elevated GPS tower to relieve both heat stress and potential radiated EMI. The design also incorporates a cooling fan. The second design came from someone that half arsed a GPS cut out for extra cooling while doing something or other with the GPS. Alleged to cool better and eliminate GPS "interference". Dirt cheap but over priced at half the cost.
So getting back to things, I don't understand a sudden interest in coming up with a new aux cooling arrangement. It would be interesting to see what your results demonstrated though.
So getting back to things, I don't understand a sudden interest in coming up with a new aux cooling arrangement. It would be interesting to see what your results demonstrated though.
I do sell a typhoon H battery adapter on eBay and it includes a GPS adapter because it is the only way to make the battery adapter work. The GPS adapter does not help cooling at all. Without the GPS adapter some batteries cause the drone to lose Its position. With the GPS adapter all types of batteries work perfectly. Its my theory the vents on both sides of the GPS module are the problem.
I don't know why we would need more ventilation. But if I cover those vents with shielding there would need to be another way to vent I think?
No disrespect, but I don't think anybody likes an 18MB Jpeg !!
Why so huge ? And do they need to be full size ? With even a little reduction, and optimizing of the jpegs you should be able to get that down to under 2MB a pic without having to compromise any detail... I'm guessing these are very high DPI. If you make them 72 dpi that will help a lot...
No disrespect perceived.
I started out setting them as thumbnails but the site’s upload process would do one in a post as a thumbnail and do any following as full.
Never thought about dpi but I like as much clarity in a picture as I can get, and not having a macro lens for this camera left me short and cropping a lot. I’ll make some changes.
I started out setting them as thumbnails but the site’s upload process would do one in a post as a thumbnail and do any following as full.
Never thought about dpi but I like as much clarity in a picture as I can get, and not having a macro lens for this camera left me short and cropping a lot. I’ll make some changes.
Last edited:
If you take pics on a proper camera (as opposed to a phone for example) you will usually get pics (even jpegs) at 300 or even 600 /1200+ DPI so that they are suitable for printing. But this file size is way too large for screen display, which is still fine at 72 DPI even in 2019 where a lot of screens can do more than that.
If you pop into an image editor, do any cropping required, and then edit image size, you can reduce DPI to 72, then alter dimensions to what you consider ideal for screen viewing (typically in the range of 1000 to 4000 pixels along the longest edge). By then saving as an optimized jpeg with some compression you should be able to get very reasonable file sizes AND large clear images. And now I'll shush about that because I don't want to derail this excellent thread
Last edited:
AeroJ,
I see your point. There's little difference between the smaller test images when viewed in the post. Thanks for the head's up.
Adding a GPS photo for general purposes, but note how the shielding/ground plane adhesive has melted onto the Captan tape over the back up battery and the component just above it. Just how hot is it getting in there?
Anyone know how to change out the back up battery?
I see your point. There's little difference between the smaller test images when viewed in the post. Thanks for the head's up.
Adding a GPS photo for general purposes, but note how the shielding/ground plane adhesive has melted onto the Captan tape over the back up battery and the component just above it. Just how hot is it getting in there?
Anyone know how to change out the back up battery?
Last edited:
