Two years ago, I paid £124, today £179 and it's the last one Leicester Drones have in stock.
Oh well, it never was a cheap hobby!
Oh well, it never was a cheap hobby!
Ouch! New battery prices!
- Thread starter PaulEden
- Start date
Take a look here...
www.batteryupgrade.com
Yuneec TYPHOON H + 4S battery (7900 mAh 15.2 V)
7900 mAh 15.2 V battery. Partnumbers: 35085, Power 4P, YUNH520105
www.batteryupgrade.com
Yeah, I keep seeing posts about these Gifi things, but none here in the UK. Import taxes would hurt me.
I don't see any H Plus GIFI in Amazon UK, but several GIFI batteries of other sizes are there. I wonder if you could contact a seller to see if they have the ones you want.
Yeah, I might do. For now, I bought the last one that Leicester Drones had in stock. Chris a a fine fella and am happy to use him while I can.
One of those has H520 batteries in stock. Is that the same battery that my Plus uses?
Right, cool. Thank you
I've got enough batteries that I can get by now. Just need to scour the classifieds for a second ST16S for team mode.
I've got enough batteries that I can get by now. Just need to scour the classifieds for a second ST16S for team mode.
You can also convert a standard ST16 to serve as ST16S. I have converted to take a look at it, but have not flown with it other than a quick test flight.
The conversion involves changing the ST16 (H480) to ST16S for H520 first, then changing from H520 to H Plus. Kind of a pain, but doable. I'll find the guidance if you want it.
The conversion involves changing the ST16 (H480) to ST16S for H520 first, then changing from H520 to H Plus. Kind of a pain, but doable. I'll find the guidance if you want it.
The double conversion is because ST16 firmware was arranged to be nearly unbreakable. But the H520 update firmware can break it (PDF attached below). Then you can convert to anything else in the series you want (image below). The PDF only extends to the H520 to H Plus conversion. Some of the other conversions are also available (Link Below). Others can be developed if needed.
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sorry don't agree, we wanted Brexit thank youEh...thanks to Brexit
DCH
Dr. FrankenPhoon
That's for sure! Especially if you are on a fixed SS retirement income. The price they demand for batteries these days are about to price me right out of the hobby! Next time I need to replace batteries I will most likely be forced to sell off my favorite hobby.Oh well, it never was a cheap hobby!
Have you tried looking at this:Two years ago, I paid £124, today £179 and it's the last one Leicester Drones have in stock.
Oh well, it never was a cheap hobby!
Batteries For Typhoon H - www.gifipower.com
I just bought 2 gifi packs from top chances at £94.99 via amazon listed as for 520 just the colour different
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Another option is to make your own packs.
You will need a reasonable wattage soldering iron (100W) for the thick wires, heat shrink 6mm and 3mm i think, 12 AWG silicon wire and 20 AWG for flying charging lead.
Both my batteries went, one causing a bit of a crash due to high cell resistance.
So this is what i've done:
1) split open the drone battery pack.
2) remove old cells and the BMS board, recycle the board and cells. BMS board is only needed for the Yuneec charger which is a basic charger and I've replaced that as well.
3) Buy a 8000 mAh 15.2 4S lipo HV from amazon Amazon.co.uk (£64.00)
4) strip the case off the new pack.
5) cut off balance plug with spare wire left on the plug for later use.
6) cut off main plug and bin it. **Important** I tend to cut then solder one wire at a time to reduce chances of wires touching and posible battery issues (fires) that may follow.
7) solder main wires and balance wires to the back of the connector in the drone battery housing. Ensure correct polarity. Heat shrink after soldering for insulation.
8) stick battery housing together, super glue or in my case insulation tape so i can get back in if needed!
9) strip down the Yuneec charger and desolder the battery connection.
10) throw the old Yuneec charger away
11) solder wires to the back of the charger plug to make flying leads with the 12 AWG wire for the main and 20 AWG for the balance. Heat shrink after soldering for insulation.
12) solder on the balance plug cut off the new pack to finish the balance flying lead. Heat shrink after soldering for insulation. shrink after soldering for insulation.
13) solder on XT60 plug to the main cables to finish these off. Heat shrink after soldering for insulation.
14) buy a good charger like one of these: Amazon.co.uk (its up to you what charger you use, however I do a lot of lipo charging so I splashed out a bit on this one)
You really want cell balance, cell voltages and cell resistance display on the charger. Internal resistance is a really good indicator of failing cells. I would rather know when charging that the drone may fall out of the sky!
This charger has a USB port so I use this for charging the ST16.
A batt storage function is good and with the cells linked above you need a high voltage capability (normal 4S lipo's are 14.8v, the typhoon H Plus is 15.2V however it will run on 14.8v)
I'm lucky I do quite a bit of other remote control stuff, so had most of the bits.
However the big plus the charging / battery management / monitoring. Also you can change the cells when they die at reduced cost.
I'm slowly working on a 3D printed charging plug and battery case. I do have a 3rd battery with a 3D printed housing (14.8v pack) but the balance plug is on a flying lead and I want to incorporate that into the battery.
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You will need a reasonable wattage soldering iron (100W) for the thick wires, heat shrink 6mm and 3mm i think, 12 AWG silicon wire and 20 AWG for flying charging lead.
Both my batteries went, one causing a bit of a crash due to high cell resistance.
So this is what i've done:
1) split open the drone battery pack.
2) remove old cells and the BMS board, recycle the board and cells. BMS board is only needed for the Yuneec charger which is a basic charger and I've replaced that as well.
3) Buy a 8000 mAh 15.2 4S lipo HV from amazon Amazon.co.uk (£64.00)
4) strip the case off the new pack.
5) cut off balance plug with spare wire left on the plug for later use.
6) cut off main plug and bin it. **Important** I tend to cut then solder one wire at a time to reduce chances of wires touching and posible battery issues (fires) that may follow.
7) solder main wires and balance wires to the back of the connector in the drone battery housing. Ensure correct polarity. Heat shrink after soldering for insulation.
8) stick battery housing together, super glue or in my case insulation tape so i can get back in if needed!
9) strip down the Yuneec charger and desolder the battery connection.
10) throw the old Yuneec charger away
11) solder wires to the back of the charger plug to make flying leads with the 12 AWG wire for the main and 20 AWG for the balance. Heat shrink after soldering for insulation.
12) solder on the balance plug cut off the new pack to finish the balance flying lead. Heat shrink after soldering for insulation. shrink after soldering for insulation.
13) solder on XT60 plug to the main cables to finish these off. Heat shrink after soldering for insulation.
14) buy a good charger like one of these: Amazon.co.uk (its up to you what charger you use, however I do a lot of lipo charging so I splashed out a bit on this one)
You really want cell balance, cell voltages and cell resistance display on the charger. Internal resistance is a really good indicator of failing cells. I would rather know when charging that the drone may fall out of the sky!
This charger has a USB port so I use this for charging the ST16.
A batt storage function is good and with the cells linked above you need a high voltage capability (normal 4S lipo's are 14.8v, the typhoon H Plus is 15.2V however it will run on 14.8v)
I'm lucky I do quite a bit of other remote control stuff, so had most of the bits.
However the big plus the charging / battery management / monitoring. Also you can change the cells when they die at reduced cost.
I'm slowly working on a 3D printed charging plug and battery case. I do have a 3rd battery with a 3D printed housing (14.8v pack) but the balance plug is on a flying lead and I want to incorporate that into the battery.
View media item 542
View media item 541
View media item 540
View media item 539
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