Smoke let out of wire

[Inknut77]

Hooked everything up on my DNF Q500K and a small puff of smoke rose above the drone. Now St10says no connection but when I turn off drone all 4 (blue,I think) corner lights stay on until battery is removed. Opening the top cover to see the board I see what looks a burnt component missing. Looking from front (camera lens end) to rear (gimbal end) , rear left beside the connector for 3 wire to drone. The outer component seems ok but the inner one is burnt, gone.
In the picture I'm attachingis 2 boards, the burnt one and another from the "drive by flattening" drone from a previous discussion.
I guess my question is what is the component and can I swap them from one board to the other? Some of you may remember the previous topic as being one about a car running over my drone.

Thanks,Ink

Sorry, tried to edit and circle components but don't think it let me either of first or last attempt

 

[WTFDproject]

Hooked everything up on my DNF Q500K and a small puff of smoke rose above the drone. Now St10says no connection but when I turn off drone all 4 (blue,I think) corner lights stay on until battery is removed. Opening the top cover to see the board I see what looks a burnt component missing.

I think the blown component on the gimbal board is a ferrite core noise filter on the ground. It can be replaced with one from the other board, or just jumpered without much issue. But you have a couple of bigger problems:

1.) What made the gimbal component blow? If something has malfunctioned upstream it will just blow again.
2.) Blue lights on the drone - Does this problem occur when the camera is removed? If so, you have a different issue in the drone itself. It will take more information to make much of a guess, buy if this issue began when the "noise filter" blew, it's a pretty good bet you have at least one damaged power chip on the main board.
3.) When you say "not connecting", is it the drone not connecting, or is it the camera not connecting?
4.) You mentioned you had just hooked everything up. Did you bind both drone and camera to controller before it blew up? Did you bind the drone to the controller after the camera blew up?

For what it's worth, you will need to create a circuit as marked in green on this extract from the picture of your boards. Best to do it by transplanting the component. I've jumpered the one beside it (hot wire) with no apparent effects, but I don't think I've ever seen the ground side blow out before.



Important note: You may be able to get the drone to bind with the camera removed. But don't try to fly it until you resolve the power issue. The damaged component in the DRONE is currently making up the power circuit in the drone, but is damaged. Under the load of flight, it will likely fail and the drone will fall out of the sky.

 

[Inknut77]

2.) Blue lights on the drone - Does this problem occur when the camera is removed?

Does not occur with camera removed. Goes out when camera is disconnected from drone.

Problem is something in camera. Hooked a different camera and everything works

3.) When you say "Not connecting", is it the drone not connecting, or is it the camera not connecting?

Camera not connecting, drone binds as normal

4.) You mentioned you had just hooked everything up. Did you bind both drone and camera to controller before it blew up? Did you bind the drone to the controller after the camera blew up?

When drone binded was when the controller said camera wasn't connected.

Next question, if one of the three wires on the camera gimbal board was loose then plugged into drone, could that have been the cause of filter blowing? And if so what next should be checked ?

This was going to be a second camera for the stand by Q I have, so I'm still good with a working, flying drone. This is the camera I was having problems with losing camera signal from back when. So apparently something finally got the best.

 

[WTFDproject]

Camera not connecting, drone binds as normal
When drone binded was when the controller said camera wasn't connected.

Next question, if one of the three wires on the camera gimbal board was loose then plugged into drone, could that have been the cause of filter blowing? And if so what next should be checked ?

Camera not connecting, drone binds as normal
When drone binded was when the controller said camera wasn't connected.
Does the "good" camera connect to the DNF controller? If not, what happens when you try to rebind it to DNF controller / model?

Next question, if one of the three wires on the camera gimbal board was loose then plugged into drone, could that have been the cause of filter blowing? And if so what next should be checked ?
If one of the "three black wires" was loose, and you plugged in the pigtail, that would be a big YES. That's what happens when you do that. But also, any loose wire would be a suspect if it got in the wrong place.

I also added some stuff and tried to clarify some other things in the first post. Please be sure to look at it again.

 

[Inknut77]

Does the "good" camera connect to the DNF controller? If not, what happens when you try to rebind it to DNF controller / model?

Good camera binds to both controllers. Pulled the DNF bird apart and couldn't find anything out of sorts. Only thing I find is two of the three black wires being loose so I have removed them to use connector wire.

Looking at your ground.jpeg pic , the green line circuit, does it jump from dot to Dot or does it need to jump with 4 connections, two middle being the filter,? Hope my question makes sense

 

[Inknut77]

Looking at your ground.jpeg pic , the green line circuit, does it jump from dot to Dot or does it need to jump with 4 connections, two middle being the filter,? Hope my question makes sense.

Blue dots are my circuit question

 

[WTFDproject]

Green Dot to Green Dot. Only two connection points, one at each end of the wire. But again, it's taking a chance.
Can you tell us more about the loose wire?
Was it on the pigtail, or was it one of the three black wires.
Was it only one wire?
Where was the wire(s) re-attached?

 

[WTFDproject]

Next question, if one of the three wires on the camera gimbal board was loose then plugged into drone, could that have been the cause of filter blowing? And if so what next should be checked ?

I just realized I missed an important part of one of your questions:
"And if so what next should be checked ?"
The next thing to check is the resistance and continuity between the "hot" contact and the ground point just upstream of the blown component. Both must performed with out power. (Powered contact between these points would be exactly the same as whatever caused the damage to start with.)

A "continuity" check between these points should show as a functionally "open" circuit (No beep from the multimeter). It's not really an open circuit, but normally has high enough resistance to read like one on most multimeters.

An actual "resistance" check shows about 400 to 600 ohms resistance (on my uncalibrated multimeter). If it is much LESS than this, it indicates something upstream is shorted out. If it is much MORE than this, it implies something upstream is blown out.

 

[WTFDproject]

Did some experimenting today with a spare camera. The test camera is standard except "The black wires" are completely removed, and the camera is powered by pigtail only. (the mod has no effect on results of the experiment) The Drone is a standard Q500 4K.

Stage One: Removed the equivalent damaged component.
Camera - Shows no direct evidence of power up. No visible lights, no movement.
Q500 - Powers up normally. When powered down, the four blue ESC power indictor LEDs remain lit up. Blue LEDs remain lit until the battery is pulled. Note the blue LEDs are not the same as the Red/White "under motor LEDs. They are small LEDs on the ESC itself. You don't normally see them because they are hidden by the much brighter Red/White "Under Motor" LEDs. The Red/White LEDs will be flashing while you have power on. If you happen to turn power off while the normal Red/White LEDs are lit, they will also remain lit up until battery is pulled. If the battery is re-inserted, all lights remain off until the power switch is turned on.


Stage Two: Installed jumper between pigtail ground leg and connection point as shown in picture in previous post.
Camera - Normal behavior. Roll, Yaw and Tilt bench test all appear normal. Video on screen was normal. Flight test at about 100 yds. Snapshots and video have level horizon. Noticed a slight jerk when doing video pans. This camera is not normally used. The slight jerk may be normal for this camera. Otherwise, clear, stable video and snapshots.
Q500 - Powered on, bound to controller, responded to flight controls, and powered down. All normal. All lights turned off when switch was turned off. Note: "RED" wire was used for visibility in the picture. The wire used is the same gauge and type as 'The three black wires" if you still have them available.


Stage Three: Removed jumper and reinstalled normal component.
Camera - All functions the same as when jumper installed, including the slight jerk when video panning.
Q500 - All functions the same as when jumper installed.

 

[Inknut77]

Why am I not being able to see pictures d/l on this forum now?

 

[WTFDproject]

Were you able to see them earlier? On the same device?
I can see them normally on my PC. On my smartphone, I can only see them one at a time by touching the Icon.

 

[Inknut77]

Same phone. Had been able to show pics w/o having to click link, but now even clicking the link does nothing but select window as for copy paste. Haven't tried the laptop yet. Maybe later tonight.

 

[Inknut77]

Opened top of gimbal and loosened the board. Found a red/black twisted set of wires not connected to anything also found 3 black wires not connected to anything. Should these be connected to each other? Or do they need to stay separated? Enclosing picture, in red circle.

 

[WTFDproject]

Opened top of gimbal and loosened the board. Found a red/black twisted set of wires not connected to anything also found 3 black wires not connected to anything. Should these be connected to each other? Or do they need to stay separated?

The red/black wires are the camera's microphones. If you look at the connector closely, you will see the two ground wires are crimped together into only one pin of the four pin connector.
The other side is similar, except there are only three wires. Both sides are four pin connectors that only use three pins. Go figure.
A microphone on a drone is pretty useless. They are mainly there for when the camera is mounted on a steadygrip.

 

[Inknut77]

So just leaving it unplugged, one less thing to go wrong