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ST16 automatically comes up telling me my camera is not connected

You MAY be able to reset if you disconnect the two connectors shown in post #36 above. Disconnecting sometimes breaks the loop. You can then do a reset if you want to. I have no idea how well the system will work with only 2.4 GHz control WIFI working, even if the disconnect restores the ability. It may be risky.
Update: I ordered a replacement WiFi card from Yuneec Skins. I removed the old card and replace with the new. Immediately the same error came up and I am again stuck in the same "Camera Type is not match" loop.

I am open to suggestions and would appreciate any help in the matter.
 
I am having the exact same problem. Stuck in the "cannot connect to camera" loop.

This is after trying to do a compass calibration and successfully passing that, then trying to do a first flight. Wouldn't connect to camera and won't break the loop. Any advice?
 
I am having the exact same problem. Stuck in the "cannot connect to camera" loop.
Please understand careful wording goes a long way to ensure we are looking at the correct issue. Does your message say, "cannot connect to camera" or does it say, "Camera is not Match"?

Was your system showing the camera normally before the compass calibration?
 
It says "Camera type is not match! Please select right camera type."

Then when I go to select the correct camera type (either CG03 or CG03 pro) it says:

"Connection failed camera not connected!"

When I try to go to anywhere else in the device, it gives me the first message above, then kicks me back to the camera select screen and so on over and over.

This happens whether the drone is on or not.

When I turn the drone on and put it into binding mode, the drone shows up on the ST 16 as able to bind but the camera does not.

This was working just fine about 30 minutes ago.
 
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Yup. We've seen this one a lot, but not much recently. Quickest, cheapest way out might be a new controller.
It's usually one of three boards in the controller. Each is about as expensive as a new controller. And no good way to tell which it might be unless the controller is in the shop.
A shop repair might be cheaper than an Easter Egg Hunt. You might be able to get some result by unplugging connectors looking for corrosion. There is a lot of information on the Forum about the issue, and occasionally a remedy that worked for some specific case. This link leads to some of the historical episodes:

The relation to doing a compass calibration is different. That hints that maybe it's not such a lost cause. Did you notice anything strange during the calibration? Maybe we can look more in the morning (it's after 2 AM here).
 
Okay thanks very much. I am pulling the back off of the controller now to check the connections.

On the compass calibration, the only thing is that we were doing it on the top of a parking structure. It failed multiple times. The camera was not locked, I don't know if that makes a difference at all. Otherwise the controller was simply in my or a friend's hands the whole time. Nothing particularly surprising took place that I am aware of.

At the end it seemed like it was successful, solid green on the main indicator light (woohoo...) then as we were about ready to turn the motors on, the message and loop began.

Thanks for your help so far, hopefully we have a breakthrough. 2 AM sure is late!
 
This is a copy from a different thread, but what exactly do you recommend be done on the gold connection points? I haven't seen these before and don't know exactly how they come off. Clean.jpg
 
This is a copy from a different thread, but what exactly do you recommend be done on the gold connection points? I haven't seen these before and don't know exactly how they come off.
The gold ones are antenna cables. They pull off and push back on. For your purpose it would work well enough to wiggle them back and forth a little.
"Plastic safe" contact cleaner can be found at auto parts stores or places like walmart back in the automotive department.
 
the only thing is that we were doing it on the top of a parking structure.
You should always select an open grassy area when doing a compass calibration. Stay away from buildings, concrete, fire hydrants, electrical transformers. Any steel near the H will affect the cal.
When doing a cal on the H, I always remove the camera prior to turning on the H. And when you turn it on, it should be sitting on level ground and not disturbed until it finishes booting up.

Once you get a good calibration it isn't necessary to do it again. In fact, frequent compass cals increases the likelihood of getting a bad cal. So just avoid it unless there is a very good reason to repeat it.
 
You should always select an open grassy area when doing a compass calibration. Stay away from buildings, concrete, fire hydrants, electrical transformers. Any steel near the H will affect the cal.
When doing a cal on the H, I always remove the camera prior to turning on the H. And when you turn it on, it should be sitting on level ground and not disturbed until it finishes booting up.

Once you get a good calibration it isn't necessary to do it again. In fact, frequent compass cals increases the likelihood of getting a bad cal. So just avoid it unless there is a very good reason to repeat it.

Thank you. That is sensible.

Now in this scenario, any idea what may be the culprit to address?

Again in summary:

1) ST16, drone and camera connected up just fine.
2) Went to test the drone, binded all fine.
3) Before flight, the ST16 gave a warning to land immediately in Angle mode and do a compass cal.
4) Attempted that about 3-4 times with camera on (understood it should have been removed, and understood that the cal should be done in an open, grassy field away from all said items.) It also kept saying to redo it on the ST16.
4A) One thing that I found to be a bit strange and I don't understand is that after the calibration, when we angled the drone 2Xs to 60 degrees to put it into bind mode, it started rapidly flashing blue instead of the normal orange to indicate it was in bind mode. I couldn't find what that was.
5) ST16 then jammed up, saying the messages above of "Camera type is not match! Please select right camera type.", kicks me back to the camera select screen then says "Connection failed camera not connected!" no matter which camera is selected over and over. I cannot go anywhere else in the android device, besides the system settings screen. (As a note, originally when this started coming up, I was still able to control PTZ on the camera with the ST16 for a short time.)
6) Opened up the ST16, disconnected the black, orange and yellow wires from the wifi module and reconnected, nothing happened. Also tried keeping them disconnected and booting up the ST16 and no change. Same error. I did not try to really do anything with the gold connector as I was less familiar with that and did not want to break anything.


A) I have trouble understanding how a compass cal would damage the wifi module in the ST16.
B) I could imagine that possibly there was trauma to the camera itself by doing the compass cal, but I have no real evidence of that and no way that I know how to check it. I can't imagine that any real damage was done if the drone is supposed to fly around.

Now when I try to put the typhoon in bind mode, it flashes what looks to be 3 blue 2 orange v fast. (anyone know what this means?)

Okay correction, I am able to put it into bind mode and connect to the drone and receive telemetry data, battery voltage, # of sats, altitude, etc.

When I go to update the ST 16 (in the about controller screen) it doesn't find any nearby wifi...


Next thought is if there is any way to reset the device manually?
 
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Again in summary:


A) I have trouble understanding how a compass cal would damage the wifi module in the ST16.
B) I could imagine that possibly there was trauma to the camera itself by doing the compass cal, but I have no real evidence of that and no way that I know how to check it. I can't imagine that any real damage was done if the drone is supposed to fly around.

When I go to update the ST 16 (in the about controller screen) it doesn't find any nearby wifi...


Next thought is if there is any way to reset the device manually?
Wow. So that's a "summary"?
You're gonna fit in well here. :)

A) I have trouble understanding how a compass cal would damage the wifi module in the ST16.
It's probably not directly related other than firmware is at work.

B) I could imagine that possibly there was trauma to the camera itself by doing the compass cal,
Not likely to be related unless something really wierd happened on the WIFI.

Next thought is if there is any way to reset the device manually?
Sort of. If you are a big-time android guy and know how to use ADB and Fastboot, it can probably be done in it's current condition. If not, it probably not worth learning how to install and use that stuff.

When I go to update the ST 16 (in the about controller screen) it doesn't find any nearby wifi...
This is probably going to be the one. This hints the WIFI module is damaged or there is a firmware issue. Corrupted firmware might have happened. The key is whether you can access the test menus. I tried to get an ST16 stuck in the loop earlier, but failed to do so. The next easiest way is for you to try this guidance on your ST16.
I have no idea if it will let you activate the secret menu, but if it does it may give us a clue. Please try to use this:
 
Okay well I can get to the secret menu.

This is what I get for the Transmitter Version: st16_transmitter_mcu_app_main_v00.27

This is what I get for the Radio Version: sr24_transmitter_rf_v01.10

Anything else I should check for or use this menu for?

"I tried to get an ST16 stuck in the loop earlier, but failed to do so."

Statistically I could probably help you with that if you want to trade. ;)
 
Okay well I can get to the secret menu.

This is what I get for the Transmitter Version: st16_transmitter_mcu_app_main_v00.27

This is what I get for the Radio Version: sr24_transmitter_rf_v01.10

Anything else I should check for or use this menu for?
Probably not. Those are the correct revisions. I am away from the house for the next couple of hours. It might be worth refreshing the firmware. But I don’t have access to the files or guidance until I get Home. You may be able to find it by searching the forum for the file names you listed above.
 
Updated firmware and that changed nothing.

dismounted the wifi module, connected the micro usb to a mac and it detected it. Put it back in and it took the controller out of the perpetual loop for a short period of time, maybe 5 minutes. I could access any and every menu.

Camera didn't connect, meaning it was red and white flashing. I was able to do a gimbal calibration, then it returned to the straightjacket perpetual loop. Doing more tests. Any advice is appreciated.
 
When I check the voltage on the black,red,yellow cabes it's 5 volts, when I plug in the wifi module it goes down to about 2.5.
Just checked mine. Red to black is 5 volts whether plugged in or not. Black to yellow is about 5mV unplugged, about 2.5 mV plugged in. Black to orange is ~6mV out, 1.5 mV plugged in. Are you sure all your readings are in volts or are the ones other than the red in milivolts?
 
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Just checked mine. Red to black is 5 volts whether plugged in or not. Black to yellow is about 5mV unplugged, about 2.5 mV plugged in. Black to orange is ~6mV out, 1.5 mV plugged in. Are you sure all your readings are in volts or are the ones other than the red in milivolts?

Thanks. That seems to settle it then. Mine is 2.5 volts when plugged in. Not sure what's faulty about the board but seems like the problem is with the board. Unfortunate that a new wifi board costs so much.

Has no one figured out how to integrate a regular run of the mill $10-20 wifi board with this controller? (I figure not, but worth putting it out there.)
 
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You should not measure voltage on data pins. Result is very much dependent on if and what data are transferred and also the measurement unit (internal resistance and capacity, frequency response). With other words, DC voltage says nothing on yellow and orange wire.
I'm still trying to understand, what interface it is, UART, I²C, CAN, USB or other. Red is ground, black is +5V (typical Yuneec color coding :D), orange seems to be clock (has very short pulses every 125µs) and if so yellow should be data.

br HE
 
Has no one figured out how to integrate a regular run of the mill $10-20 wifi board with this controller? (I figure not, but worth putting it out there.)
The biggest issue would be matching the drivers that are part of the system files as we cannot change them. The other would be mounting a different board within the same physical space.
 
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