St16 transmitter right stick issue

[raw191]

My buddy and I bought this Typhoon H from Amazon and it got to us on Nov 13. We haven't really messed with it much because of the weather but today we got it out and the transmitter has an issue with the right stick. Basically backwards is all or nothing and there is no forward at all. Ive cleaned, moved, everything i can find to do and still nothing. Any ideas? Who works on these for warranty work in the US? Thanks!

 

[WTFDproject]

....Any ideas? Who works on these for warranty work in the US? Thanks!

There is no warranty in effect, and no authorized service centers in the US even if there were.
If you have exhausted the cleaning and calibration techniques in the post linked below you may want to contact @MobileTechSpecialists for a shop repair.
"Typhoon H will not bind to st16 controller, I followed you tube website to the T. It's hard to get the drone into binding mode."

 

[Stephen1988]

My buddy and I bought this Typhoon H from Amazon and it got to us on Nov 13. We haven't really messed with it much because of the weather but today we got it out and the transmitter has an issue with the right stick. Basically backwards is all or nothing and there is no forward at all. Ive cleaned, moved, everything i can find to do and still nothing. Any ideas? Who works on these for warranty work in the US? Thanks!

When u say u cleaned do u mean u cleaned the white block with contact cleaner located inside the controller, from my understanding this is where the common issue is . I’ve also been told you can bypass this failure point by removing that block completely and soldering the wires directly to the board. I’m referring to the wires that are connected to the stick. I need to explore this myself more myself also, if they are carbon tracks maybe they need cleaned if that’s how this system works, it’s certainly not Hall sticks if u know what those are.
steve carr has a video on the cleaning process if it’s not the type of cleaning u referred 2. Next option would be get a replacement controller or just some new thumbsticks if ur confident in the replacement yourself, id try the replacement thumb sticks if all else fails, u cant make it worse and the skill will serve u well for future ownership of yuneec. A fantastic modular design that is easily worked on for hobbyists
. I’d second the recommendation for mobiletecspecilists if u send for repair , I’m hearing good reports

 

[WTFDproject]

When u say u cleaned do u mean u cleaned the white block with contact cleaner located inside the controller, from my understanding this is where the common issue is . I’ve also been told you can bypass this failure point by removing that block completely and soldering the wires directly to the board. I’m referring to the wires that are connected to the stick. I need to explore this myself more myself also, if they are carbon tracks maybe they need cleaned if that’s how this system works, it’s certainly not Hall sticks if u know what those are.
steve carr has a video on the cleaning process if it’s not the type of cleaning u referred 2. Next option would be get a replacement controller or just some new thumbsticks if ur confident in the replacement yourself, id try the replacement thumb sticks if all else fails, u cant make it worse and the skill will serve u well for future ownership of yuneec. A fantastic modular design that is easily worked on for hobbyists
. I’d second the recommendation for mobiletecspecilists if u send for repair , I’m hearing good reports

The white block (connector) can be the issue, but the common issue is the potentiometer itself. There is a very small hole on the exposed surface and some limited clearance at the shaft that allows enough cleaner to get inside if you spray enough all over it.

 

[Stephen1988]

The white block (connector) can be the issue, but the common issue is the potentiometer itself. There is a very small hole on the exposed surface and some limited clearance at the shaft that allows enough cleaner to get inside if you spray enough all over it.

Can u use 99 percent ipa for this process if u don’t happen to have contact cleaner. Also on that same point if u have batteries that have become corroded on the connectors is it worth cleaning them for use . I have got many used batteries in the past few months with zero swelling and it would be disappointing to dump them if all they needed was a clean. My worry is even though the outside could be cleaned and what I’m seeing is like a green colour corrosion could this have spread inside the pack potentially falling when flying. I’d much rather dispose of a battery than risk a power cut mid flight. My previous h480 had it battery fitted correctly but still had a power cut and i suspect a dirty connector. The taught of my other models falling out of the sky still haunts me every flight , especially from an altitude of 120m . I’d hate it to drop and hit an unsuspecting cow or sheep grazing in the local fields

 

[DoomMeister]

Removing the connector and soldering directly to the circuit board at the stick gimbals gets rid of 99% of the issues with the “dirty stick” issues. The bad part of this is the soldering is a very touchy job. The wire has a coating that makes tinning it a chore.

I have done this on one of my ST16’s and have not had to “clean the pots” since. So it is worth the effort as long as you are patient and don’t damage anything in the soldering process.

 

[Stephen1988]

Removing the connector and soldering directly to the circuit board at the stick gimbals gets rid of 99% of the issues with the “dirty stick” issues. The bad part of this is the soldering is a very touchy job. The wire has a coating that makes tinning it a chore.

I have done this on one of my ST16’s and have not had to “clean the pots” since. So it is worth the effort as long as you are patient and don’t damage anything in the soldering process.

Excellent, it’s one thing hearing a recommendation but getting the results of someone like yourself who has done this confirms it’s a good option, taking what u said into consideration.

 

[DoomMeister]

@h-elsner was the one that originally gave this a try with good results and shared it with the community.

 

[h-elsner]

Each connector is a potential source of problems. There is no need to have two of them. You can still exchange stick modules having only one. Why having two sources instead of one?

A strong indicator you have oxide problems with connectors is when the progress bar in the HW monitor reacts slowly on fast stick movements. Or with other words, when you flip the stick back to middle position and the value in HW monitor slowly/delayed moves toward zero.

 

[Stephen1988]

Each connector is a potential source of problems. There is no need to have two of them. You can still exchange stick modules having only one. Why having two sources instead of one?

A strong indicator you have oxide problems with connectors is when the progress bar in the HW monitor reacts slowly on fast stick movements. Or with other words, when you flip the stick back to middle position and the value in HW monitor slowly/delayed moves toward zero.

This is exactly the issue with the slow return. I also have a stick that won’t reach the full travel on the rc monitor, so if u put the stick to top or bottom say for throttle the rc monitor will show the travel not reaching the full travel

 

[DoomMeister]

This is exactly the issue with the slow return. I also have a stick that won’t reach the full travel on the rc monitor, so if u put the stick to top or bottom say for throttle the rc monitor will show the travel not reaching the full travel

There are two possibilities for not reaching full extent.

The first is that the potentiometers are not fully secured in their mounts and slightly shift with stick movements. This can be resolved by placing thin plastic shim underneath the pot (see Stick Gimbal Maintenance in this thread
Thread 'Way To Fix Drones project'
Way To Fix Drones project) for instructions.

The second is that the sticks need to be calibrated after ensuring that they are clean. There are instructions for the calibration of the ST16 and ST16S in the Table of Contents referenced above.

 

[Stephen1988]

There are two possibilities for not reaching full extent.

The first is that the potentiometers are not fully secured in their mounts and slightly shift with stick movements. This can be resolved by placing thin plastic shim underneath the pot (see Stick Gimbal Maintenance in this thread
Thread 'Way To Fix Drones project'
Way To Fix Drones project) for instructions.

The second is that the sticks need to be calibrated after ensuring that they are clean. There are instructions for the calibration of the ST16 and ST16S in the Table of Contents referenced above.

I’ll definitely be looking into this, thank you for directing me to the correct location for the procedure