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Typhoon H plus no take off

Does anyone know how to get to the secret menu in this controller? I need to calibrate it, the two scrolly knobs that control speed (rabbit / turtle on the Typhoon H) and camera tilt are stuck at half-way, meaning when you put them all the way up, the camera still points down and the speed of the drone is slow.

I checked the mechanical check screen and those knobs only go to half. Starting at the bottom and moving all the way up on the physical device takes you from 0 to 50% on the mechanical check screen.

In summary, I'm trying to get to the calibration screen so I can fix this but not sure how on this firmware.
 
Clear them. A known problem in ST16S. Not necessary to calibrate them before cleaning, after that you'll say.
 
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Does anyone know how to get to the secret menu in this controller? I need to calibrate it, the two scrolly knobs that control speed (rabbit / turtle on the Typhoon H) and camera tilt are stuck at half-way, meaning when you put them all the way up, the camera still points down and the speed of the drone is slow.

I checked the mechanical check screen and those knobs only go to half. Starting at the bottom and moving all the way up on the physical device takes you from 0 to 50% on the mechanical check screen.

In summary, I'm trying to get to the calibration screen so I can fix this but not sure how on this firmware.
Do you also have an H Plus/ST16S kit? The H Plus discussed in is this thread has a different answer than the Typhoon H you have mentioned most often in the past.
But mostly, @Vaklin is right. Cleaning pots should be attempted before calibration.
 
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.. the two scrolly knobs that control speed (rabbit / turtle on the Typhoon H) and camera tilt are stuck at half-way, ....
Please clarify what you mean by "stuck at half-way".
Do you mean both scales read 50% regardless of the position of the sliders?
Do you mean both scales have a range of 0% to 50%? (Or 100% to 50%)
 
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Please clarify what you mean by "stuck at half-way".
Do you mean both scales read 50% regardless of the position of the sliders?
Do you mean both scales have a range of 0% to 50%? (Or 100% to 50%)

Sorry for not being clear.

When the position of the slider is at 0, the scale is at 0

When the position of the slider is at full throttle--all the way to the top (Ie 100) the scale is at 50.
 
Sorry for not being clear.

When the position of the slider is at 0, the scale is at 0

When the position of the slider is at full throttle--all the way to the top (Ie 100) the scale is at 50.
That is the description of a controller that was calibrated with the rate slider (K3) at full bottom position. That really does sound like a calibration issue rather than corrosion.
There is a document for accessing the "Secret Menu" on the H Plus, but the secret menu is pretty useless on an H Plus. (I'll attach a link below so you can check it out later.)
For now, the page that contains the stick calibration is accessed via the pad APP menu. Open the "FlightContrallModeTest" icon. Most of the ICON name is off-screen, but it is the green robot looking thing that is normally in the upper right corner. Then tap "Controller Test" on the page that pops up.
If you've run the calibration on ST16, it's the same on ST16S. If you have not run the calibration before, be sure to watch a couple of the very few correct videos out there. (Link also attached below.)
The main error in calibrations is NOT getting all three pot related control devices (K1, K2, and especially K3) in center prior to changing screens at any stage of the calibration.

Post script: Youtube at one point had DOZENS of ST16 calibration videos out there. All except the ones linked above were either lacking the key feature or actually stated the wrong position. The videos in the link are correct but you still have to pay attention.
 
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As impossible as this may sound, I cannot access dropbox. I'll give it a go this evening based on the text directions you gave above. I agree, I am pretty certain it's a calibration issue and has nothing to do with the pots.
 
Step 1 says to ensure the controller and drone are powered on and bound.

For the ST 16 and Typhoon H I did not have them bound to do a remote calibration. Do I really need to bind them for the ST16S and Typhoon H + for a RC calibration?

(Much appreciated on attaching the documents.)
 
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Step 1 says to ensure the controller and drone are powered on and bound.

For the ST 16 and Typhoon H I did not have them bound to do a remote calibration. Do I really need to bind them for the ST16S and Typhoon H + for a RC calibration?

(Much appreciated on attaching the documents.)
The document that instructs how to access the Sscret Menu is generalized due to the multiple functions where some require the aircraft to be on and bound.

The ST16S calibration does not require the aircraft to be on and bound.
 
Step 1 says to ensure the controller and drone are powered on and bound.

For the ST 16 and Typhoon H I did not have them bound to do a remote calibration. Do I really need to bind them for the ST16S and Typhoon H + for a RC calibration?

(Much appreciated on attaching the documents.)
Added a note and some additional words to Step 1 in an attempt to clarify the intent. If it just makes things worse, let me know.
 

Attachments

  • ST16S Secret Menu Access (HPlus).pdf
    8.1 MB · Views: 3
I'm kind of lost here on exactly what you were try to achieve. Are you doing a standard calibration of the ST16s ??

Let me un-lose you, but rest assured when you finish reading this it's not going to be very exciting:

1) I was trying to do a standard calibration of the ST16S. -----------DONE
2) I encountered the keyboard not showing up on the screen. (But clicking where the keys should be did result in an input, as if there was a keyboard.)
3) When the screensaver in the background changed locations, the keyboard briefly showed up for about .5 seconds but it was "ghostly" and transparent.
4) I took a photo of it with my phone.
5) I referenced the photo on the phone to guestimate where the letters and numbers were
6) After looking like a ****** for about 20 minutes, I managed to type in the password and click "OK"
7) I successfully calibrated the ST16S.

8) I posted the above message, asking if anyone knows how to fix the non-displaying (while existing) keyboard.

9) This really is not that important at this point, but if in the future I need to calibrate it again, it'd be easier having the keyboard actually show up on screen to type in the password.

P.S. --Wow, that previous message really was confusing. I'm just deleting it for everyone's benefit.
 

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