My first TH flew away after about 100 flights. Bought used Typhoon H Pro and it worked like new for 50+ flights. I then noticed that I could not perform any calibrations, esp compass. I had calibrated all many times before. On last flight, only went up about 15 feet, but drone slowly drifted to right and I could not get response from sticks. Since it was headed toward a tall bush, I killed the motors as it touched the bush. It fell to the ground, but branches slowed the fall so the only visible damage was a broken prop. After this crash, I again attemted to calibrate, but would not work. I had a spare ESC board and what I believe is called the flight control board which came attached. I replaced both in the TH. When I was ready to test, I was not able to bind the TH to the ST16 because the TH would not display under the "Aircraft Model" in the System Settings screen. I watched many vidieos and followed instructions to copy aircraft, put TH into bind mode, had blinking yellow light, and tried to update software. The cgo3+ camera would bind and even the tilt, pan, and rotate functions worked as they should. I also pressed Reset, Refresh, and Bind MANY times, but still cannot get TH to bind. There is no telemetry on main screens and motors will not start ( props off of course). I have not been able to find any thread or discussion that deals with my situation. Does the flight control board have firmware embedded from factory or do I need to down load. How can I do download if I can't get ST16 to "find" the TH since updates are started ftom ST16? I noticed that many updates and downloads were either gone or non-functioning so I tried from Yuneec Skins website, but not clear which ones I need to download. It seems that I am at least partially bound to TH since the rotate/tilt of camera works. I have also went into the android menus and cleared flight cache per several videos. Have also made sure wifi is enabled and have entered password into ST16 when attempting to bind. I apologize for such a long post, but I just wanted to describe all of the things I have tried. I don't know if this is a hardware or software problem. I do have Realsense installed if that matters, but I am not sure that it was working, even when I first received. Help please...don't know what to do to fix. Thanks in advance for your advice !!
Typhoon H Pro won't bind to ST16
- Thread starter CaptainDave
- Start date
I don't really think it is a binding problem. I suspect it is a problem with the controller. However, a thorough review of the binding could be used to either confirm or rule out the binding as the problem.
To look at Binding:
Run Attachment 33 (Typhoon H Binding Verification) of the PDF document attached to Way To Fix Drones project. This is not a just a great big set of binding directions. It is a verification of each step in the sequence. Perform ALL the steps, including the ones that you are convinced do not need to be checked. After the initial setup, the sequence enters a phase where it will tell you to take an action, then verify the results of the action. When you find a step where the results don't match, stop and report the step number and what you saw to the forum. Also, if you are uncertain if the result matches the action, do not continue. Stop and report what you see.
To look at a Controller issue:
The easiest way to rule out the controller is to attempt to bind to a different controller. You mentioned this is your second TH. If you have another ST16, or know someone who does, it would be great if you could attempt to bind to the other controller. Of course, the reverse is also true. If you bind your controller to a different TH, it's the same idea.
You mentioned several things, but did not mention doing a factory reset of the controller. You might try that if you have not already done so.
You also did not mention if you had checked "Hardware Monitor" or the "Final Output Display". Those are more related to signals being sent than they are to binding, but the mention of the uncontrolled drift suggests the transmitter was having an issue with transmitting signal. The "Final Output Monitor" is evoked by doing a rapid double tap on the Volts Icon of the main screen. Details on the Final Output Monitor, as well as the values you should see when moving the sticks, can be found in Attachment 36 (ST16 Signal Processing Overview) of the same document linked above.
To look at Binding:
Run Attachment 33 (Typhoon H Binding Verification) of the PDF document attached to Way To Fix Drones project. This is not a just a great big set of binding directions. It is a verification of each step in the sequence. Perform ALL the steps, including the ones that you are convinced do not need to be checked. After the initial setup, the sequence enters a phase where it will tell you to take an action, then verify the results of the action. When you find a step where the results don't match, stop and report the step number and what you saw to the forum. Also, if you are uncertain if the result matches the action, do not continue. Stop and report what you see.
To look at a Controller issue:
The easiest way to rule out the controller is to attempt to bind to a different controller. You mentioned this is your second TH. If you have another ST16, or know someone who does, it would be great if you could attempt to bind to the other controller. Of course, the reverse is also true. If you bind your controller to a different TH, it's the same idea.
You mentioned several things, but did not mention doing a factory reset of the controller. You might try that if you have not already done so.
You also did not mention if you had checked "Hardware Monitor" or the "Final Output Display". Those are more related to signals being sent than they are to binding, but the mention of the uncontrolled drift suggests the transmitter was having an issue with transmitting signal. The "Final Output Monitor" is evoked by doing a rapid double tap on the Volts Icon of the main screen. Details on the Final Output Monitor, as well as the values you should see when moving the sticks, can be found in Attachment 36 (ST16 Signal Processing Overview) of the same document linked above.
Thank You for your prompt and thorough response ! First of all, there are 2 additional items to report. I do have 2 ST16 transmitters as you suspected. I have tried to bind with both ST16s, but get the same results. Camera will provide video and gimble responds as it should. Both ST16 TXs are the 3 antennae models. The other item I failed to mention is that I also replaced the GPS/Compass Module at the same time that I replaced the ESC Board and Flight Control Board. I reasoned that my problems started with not being able to calibrate, so this might have been the cause. Plus, it was all apart and I had these spare parts on hand.
I did download the files you suggested and printed attachments 33 and 36.
I carefully followed each step on attachment 33 and all was going fine until I got to step #34. I examined the lower vents on both sides and could not see any orange light. I also looked into the top vents and could see a solid blue light in the FRONT vents. I could also see the flashing blue main led (rear) through the top rear vents.
So...what does the lack of orange light from step 34 mean?
I did download the files you suggested and printed attachments 33 and 36.
I carefully followed each step on attachment 33 and all was going fine until I got to step #34. I examined the lower vents on both sides and could not see any orange light. I also looked into the top vents and could see a solid blue light in the FRONT vents. I could also see the flashing blue main led (rear) through the top rear vents.
So...what does the lack of orange light from step 34 mean?
You are actually failing at step #35. The receiver is not functioning. Most likely a cabling problem.
@WTFDproject will have to verify.
@WTFDproject will have to verify.
I think you meant step 35, but the lack of the orange light in the vent means the RF module is either dead, or was not correctly plugged in during assembly. Unfortunately, if the RFModule was installed with the LED facing the frame, you just can't see it. But that was pretty rare.
Remove the battery, turn the drone over. You may be able to see the connector plug well enough to tell if it is at least plugged in.
Yep, you are right. I should have said step 35. I took battery out and can see the connector you pointed out quite clearly. It appears to be properly seated. I was very careful about making sure that all connectors were tight when I replaced all parts. Do you have a picture of the RFModule so I know what part to replace. Sounds like this could well be source of problems. Any advice about easiest way to replace? Do I need to remove camera mount and top and bottom covers? Thx !!
I found this one on ebay:
NEW Yuneec Typhoon H 2.4Ghz RECEIVER Antenna Module Drone Hexacopter Hex | eBay
I did not see one on the Yuneec Skins website, but if you contact John Mitchell, he probably has them, and is definitely my preferred vendor for anything he has.
Yuneec Skins - Yuneec Drone Parts, Yuneec Parts | Yuneec Skins
It's stuck to the outside of the battery frame in the same location you were looking for the orange LED. You will have to take off top and bottom shells, and loosen the ESC board screw enough to access the plug and route the wires.
It's also the same actual module as used on pretty much all Yuneec drones since first introduced on the Q500. Other models often have longer wires and several variations in the less significant features (wire color, wire length, etc) but the connectors and the actual modules are either exactly the same or fully interchangeable. I have an H520 here that is flying with a salvaged receiver from an old Blade Chroma.
NEW Yuneec Typhoon H 2.4Ghz RECEIVER Antenna Module Drone Hexacopter Hex | eBay
I did not see one on the Yuneec Skins website, but if you contact John Mitchell, he probably has them, and is definitely my preferred vendor for anything he has.
Yuneec Skins - Yuneec Drone Parts, Yuneec Parts | Yuneec Skins
It's stuck to the outside of the battery frame in the same location you were looking for the orange LED. You will have to take off top and bottom shells, and loosen the ESC board screw enough to access the plug and route the wires.
It's also the same actual module as used on pretty much all Yuneec drones since first introduced on the Q500. Other models often have longer wires and several variations in the less significant features (wire color, wire length, etc) but the connectors and the actual modules are either exactly the same or fully interchangeable. I have an H520 here that is flying with a salvaged receiver from an old Blade Chroma.
So I have now removed top shell and it appears that the connector you pointed out in photo actually plugs into what I believe is called the ESC board (the largest round board ). Is the RFModule part of that large round board ?
How can I test ?
If you have a multimeter check the wire continuity from the RF module to the connector. Check that the pins in the connector did not get pushed back in the connector housing. Also look for pinched wiring.
Follow the wire, of course, to be sure. But you will find it on the left side of the battery box section of the frame, stuck on by some heavy two sided tape.
I have further disassembled the drone by removing camera mounts, top & bottom shells, and then removing the 4 screws that hold main board to frame. I was now able to trace the 4 wire connector that was in the first pic you sent. I think I found the RFModule which has 4 wires from the plug/harness ( yellow ,gray, white, & black). These connect to a module that has 2 antennae wires (black wires attached to gold-colored cylinder which is about an inch long and 1/4 inch in diameter. There is a silver bare wire that comes out of the end of each of the 2 gold cylinders. These silver wires go down the legs of the landing gear. Good news is that if this is the suspect part, I have a spare! I have known this part as the antennae module and hope that means it is the same as the RFModule. My replacement part looks a little different from the original (new module gas silver metal plate that covers the printed circuit board and attachments). Is there a way to test these components individually to determine what is causing the problems? I tried to check connectors with my multimeter as you suggested, but I was unable to get reliable readings since pins are so tiny.
Since I now have the drone mostly apart, I would like to know if I can test these modules. It seems that I have a spare part for most electronics ( have been buying for several years from E-Bay...just in case). I also have another main board (yes, I have 3 in total). How do you think I should proceed now? Swap "antennae/RF module" and see what happens ? I still have an uneasy feeling that I may have software issues as well because I replaced so many parts. When I go to "System Settings" and then click on "About Controller" where updates are done, I see that my ST16 is running System Version:st16_system_v03.01.b30.
However, under "Aircraft", all 4 categories say "Version: N/A". So...I am still wondering if this can also be a software/firmware issue. any suggestions as to where to go from here are welcome !
thanks guys...next step will be to replace the antennae module which I happen to have. will probably try tomorrow...I will report on results. Any suggestions regarding my previous questions concerning firmware or updates? would be wonderful if I knew exactly what firmware and/or updates I should do. Specific files and order of installation would be appreciated...or...will things go back to normal once I replace antennae module? Thx again for your help and wisdom. I hope that others can benefit from this thread ! Thx again !!
You get the N/A because the aircraft is not bound to the controller. You are on the right track replacing that module.
You need a set of needle point test leads to work on these small connectors. I suspect you have a problem with the wires supplying power to that module (it is a Zigbee SR24 transceiver) that binds with the same module inside the ST16.
You can leave the top shell off while you test to see if the unit will bind. It doesn’t save much work, but you know nothing will short out.
The controller is up to date on its firmware. I would suspect the same on the aircraft and camera as the most recent firmware for all is 3 1/2 years old.
You need a set of needle point test leads to work on these small connectors. I suspect you have a problem with the wires supplying power to that module (it is a Zigbee SR24 transceiver) that binds with the same module inside the ST16.
You can leave the top shell off while you test to see if the unit will bind. It doesn’t save much work, but you know nothing will short out.
The controller is up to date on its firmware. I would suspect the same on the aircraft and camera as the most recent firmware for all is 3 1/2 years old.
Here are pics of both modules. The new one is on the left. The biggest difference is that the new one has a metal plate that covers the circuitry on the side that has the plugin connector. In one reply it was mentioned that perhaps the module was installed with wrong side facing out & that may be reason I could not see orange LED from bottom-left vent. My question now is which side of new module should face out (side with metal plate or the one without plate). I want to make sure its right so LED will be visible. Thanks again !
If it was mine, I would plug in the new module and turn on the drone to give the new module a quick test. You don't have to route the wires or assemble the shell for that.
I followed your advice and plugged the new module in. Got Orange light !! Also got telemetry back on ST16. I then plugged the old module back in and no light or telemetry, so that hopefully was problem. I put it all back together. I knew things were going TOO smoothly. The GPS will not work (acquiring displays), Obstacle Avoidance doesn't work (Msg: OBS Avoidance is not available), and finally, motors will not start. Camera video and gimble work as they should. Checked "Update Screen" and it appears that everything is up to date.
Any ideas what may be causing these issues? i think I will go back to attachment 33 and start over from the beginning. At least I feel we are making good progress ! Thx
Any ideas what may be causing these issues? i think I will go back to attachment 33 and start over from the beginning. At least I feel we are making good progress ! Thx
The new problem is not in the binding. GPS acquisition problems are almost always in the FC board, and I think you installed a different FC board when you were doing the earlier work. If so, put the original FC board back on the main ESC board, and the problems will probably go away.
("OBS not available" is normal until you are in flight. Just turn the switch off, and I THINK it will go away.)
("OBS not available" is normal until you are in flight. Just turn the switch off, and I THINK it will go away.)
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Oops. Should have said "GPS acquisition problems that occur under good conditions" I assume you were outdoors with a clear view of the sky?
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