Hello. I'm in need of help. I bought a q500 from a friend who hasn't flown it in a while and still can't get it to fly. The problem I'm having is the drone led just keeps blinking red. Iv doen plenty of reading of people's issues so I've done everything everybody has said. I have connections, plenty of sat, volts and batteries are good, mode is READY, Iv tryd both on Angle and Smart, Iv DELETED the model did the rebind, tilted the drone I have literally done everything and still not able to take flight... PLEASE HELP. THX
Typhoon Q500 led keeps blinking red
- Thread starter Bobba1208
- Start date
Does the rear LED also flash red if you start the drone with the controller turned off?
Are the red flashes at about 3 per second or faster (at about 5 per second)?
Can you connect the Q500 to the GUI to see what errors might be present?
Is there any history of the shell being removed and re-installed?
Are the red flashes at about 3 per second or faster (at about 5 per second)?
Can you connect the Q500 to the GUI to see what errors might be present?
Is there any history of the shell being removed and re-installed?
Yes it does.
. No the flashes are a steady blink but there is beeping sounds .. Yes I did connect it and it showed all 4 motors were red .. I have no info of its history .
Check the SD card slot under the battery in the controller. If there is an SD card in it, upload any flight logs it contains.
A screenshot of the GUI sensor information page might help.
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If everything is exactly the same as in the image above, it probably means you do not really have a connection to the GUI. There are lots of possible reasons, but this most often means a pin or two is pulled out on the GUI connector in the battery bay.
There are two types of connectors used. The original Q500 was a double-sided connector. You unplugged the two parts of the connector and plugged in the GUI cable. On the Q400 4K, it is a one-sided open connector all the time.
The wires are seldom pulled all the way out. If you can see any part of the metal pin outside the connector, it is backed out and will not make contact.
That makes sense I will try that tonite. My other problem is the drone just keeps blinking red and according to the manual that means it's in RTH mode, when the switch on the controller is in Angle and it Smart . Now I ain't all that smart but I'm confused and can't figure it out
The Q500 uses flashing red for two different things.
One is the "RTH", which flashes at about 5 times per second.
The other is "Failure to Initialize", which flashes at about 3 times per second.
One is the "RTH", which flashes at about 5 times per second.
The other is "Failure to Initialize", which flashes at about 3 times per second.
You can try running the GUI as Administrator and running in compatibility mode for Windows7.
Mostly it sounds like you will have to pull the top shell off and look for burned components on the main board or crushed/broken wires anywhere.
Ask your friend if he remembers anything that might give some clues.
Mostly it sounds like you will have to pull the top shell off and look for burned components on the main board or crushed/broken wires anywhere.
Ask your friend if he remembers anything that might give some clues.
The yellow is only blinking cuz it's hooked up to laptop and after binding is done it's keeps blinking red.... Umm I'm not tech savy at all so I have no idea what it talking about .... And I did ask my friend he had no info he got it same way he gave to me
Can somebody plz tell me how to get the drone led stop blinking red so I can actually fly the *** thing?!?!?! Thx
Remove the top shell and start looking. The things you may be able to see are:
1.) Things that are not plugged in. There are normally no loose connectors on the ends of any wires. If you find one and it is not obvious where it goes, take a picture or describe it.
2.) Broken wires, especially at soldered joints. Same as above. There should be no loose wires dangling around.
3.) Crushed wires. Q500 is notorious for this. It is full of wires routed everywhere, and it has a whole lot of screws that hold the shell together. Each screw hole is a flat bottom on both sides. The flat bottoms become anvils if a wire happens to be there when the screw is installed during shell assembly. This drone model is about 10 years old now. To find one that has never been opened would be pretty rare.
4.) Burned spots. Mostly around the mosfet near center/left side of the main board, at any of the capacitors (little brown cubes), the large row of heavy wires at the front edge of the board, or anywhere else.
5.) Contamination/corrosion. Anything that does not look like it should be there. Especially any white, dried puddle looking stuff.
6.) If there is no obvious damage found by the first visual, we can provide some images to look at the wire order at various connections. Again, the Q500 has been around a while, and the probability of prior repairs gone wrong exists.
And the harder reality is that things go bad with absolutely no visible signs. For those, you need a bucket full of spare parts as part of the best home solution. The more practical solution at that point might be to send it off for repair.
If the GUI can be made to work things may get a lot easier. The current information suggests the board damage is preventing the GUI from working. It would still be a good idea to look one more time to be sure the GUI is properly connected.
1.) Things that are not plugged in. There are normally no loose connectors on the ends of any wires. If you find one and it is not obvious where it goes, take a picture or describe it.
2.) Broken wires, especially at soldered joints. Same as above. There should be no loose wires dangling around.
3.) Crushed wires. Q500 is notorious for this. It is full of wires routed everywhere, and it has a whole lot of screws that hold the shell together. Each screw hole is a flat bottom on both sides. The flat bottoms become anvils if a wire happens to be there when the screw is installed during shell assembly. This drone model is about 10 years old now. To find one that has never been opened would be pretty rare.
4.) Burned spots. Mostly around the mosfet near center/left side of the main board, at any of the capacitors (little brown cubes), the large row of heavy wires at the front edge of the board, or anywhere else.
5.) Contamination/corrosion. Anything that does not look like it should be there. Especially any white, dried puddle looking stuff.
6.) If there is no obvious damage found by the first visual, we can provide some images to look at the wire order at various connections. Again, the Q500 has been around a while, and the probability of prior repairs gone wrong exists.
And the harder reality is that things go bad with absolutely no visible signs. For those, you need a bucket full of spare parts as part of the best home solution. The more practical solution at that point might be to send it off for repair.
If the GUI can be made to work things may get a lot easier. The current information suggests the board damage is preventing the GUI from working. It would still be a good idea to look one more time to be sure the GUI is properly connected.
Thank u for all that info cuz I will b opening it up. I can say for sure sometime has happened to this drone cuz around motor #3 on the shell does have some repair done but motor does spin freely. Ye I was wondering about the GUI cuz when I plug white cord into laptop it does blink blue so seems to be reading but said disconnected. Thx again will see how it looks after getting shell apart .
h-elsner
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If some repair on ESC or motor was done a complete Motor-assignment is absolutely needed. But for this you need the GUI working.
First step is to check if driver are correct installed. If you plug in the white cord (this is a simple serial to USB converter by the way) to th PCs USB in Windows Device Manager should appear a new device for COM&LPT.
A virtual COM port should be assigned to this device, a COM number (here COM3). If so, all is OK. The GUI should recognize this COM port by itself but can also force it to connect to it.
The problem may then be the tiny connector inside the battery compartment. Please check if no pin is bent (4 pin in total) and wires are OK.
First step is to check if driver are correct installed. If you plug in the white cord (this is a simple serial to USB converter by the way) to th PCs USB in Windows Device Manager should appear a new device for COM&LPT.
A virtual COM port should be assigned to this device, a COM number (here COM3). If so, all is OK. The GUI should recognize this COM port by itself but can also force it to connect to it.
The problem may then be the tiny connector inside the battery compartment. Please check if no pin is bent (4 pin in total) and wires are OK.
h-elsner
Premium Pilot
- Joined
- Mar 23, 2016
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- Bavaria / Germany
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- h-elsner.mooo.com
