Why the "H" didn't my H land? Advice! :-)

[2lip]

I'm apparently having trouble posting like last night. I don't know how you accomplish what you do in this forum from a phone? Amazing!

You are (still) sweet to offer me kind words. I do believe you fellows here will have me up and flying (with or without camera) shortly - uhm....... after the sub zero temps and ice give a reprieve? (I would LOVE some snow footage though!).

2lip
I think this is the best forum I've come across! (cameras, crafts, art, photography, etc.) - Generous with advice and offers of help! What could be better? (my camera fixed!) LOL - in due time, sweet pea.

Sorry to learn you're having two bad experiences at the same time. I won't even try to guess how the first will turn out but this one will end up to the good.


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[2lip]

I follow the rules! Our state has the most strict rules!!!! - (and I'm in the group!) - off season - for nest inspections.
And yes, look look and look for eagles - and geese. Both like to take drones down. And they win.

I digiscope and have very long long lenses. I stay in my boundaries. I even have one sweet pair that I identified and have their complete histories on. I have followed them (not stalked them!) for 4 years now - I swear they know me, too.

Ask my own parrots. One is deathly phobic of even seeing a glimpse - (and that particular parrot is used to going out in loud traffic, noise and chaos and is not startled) - he has never even seen it go up in the air - but flaps furiously and has to get away when he sees it. I havne't yet figured out how or what or why has unnerved him.

2lip
If eagles are at the top of the food chain, where does the H come in..........?

Be careful with those nest inspections. You likely already know how territorial they can be. They have many times demonstrated a propensity to attack an RC plane or multirotor. They always win.

 

[PatR]

The inedible part

 

[Eagle's Eye Video]

I'm a geek. Full on tech geek. Tech junkie. And work in the arts field. Art nerd.
I've been told those 2 (tech/art) - are diametrically opposed, but it works for me.
I'm very much a 'girly girl'... not a tomboy, or a 'tom girl'.

I may be in love...

 

[2lip]

Snarkey! LOL

The inedible part

 

[2lip]

LOL - and yet so sweet - but I'm afraid you might have to work on my landing gear first

I may be in love...

 

[PatR]

I'm getting out now before it goes much further.

Note to all; If you want to see this thread shut down, just keep walking down the path you are currently on. I'm old enough to handle it but many may not be and the mods may not see any value in keeping it open if it spends much more time in innuendo land.


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[Christopher Philips]

A possible solution:

One thing I have noticed, is that if you attempt to calibrate the accelerometer and do it improperly, the blades will not power down on landing. It doesn't recognize the ground level as "0" and wont land. In the event that happens I just hold down the start/stop button when its an inch off the ground and pull down.

This happens every now and then when I prep machines for customers. But the fix is to just re calibrate.

 

[Steve Carr]

You referred to a gentle slow landing in you post. When you land and take off with the H you should do it with authority. Take off with full left stick until you get up to 10-15'. When you land you can't ease it to the ground. The ground effect of the prop wash will tend to make it bounce up and down when you get down low enough. You just have to hold the left stick back fully even after it's on the ground. Then hit the kill button.
As @Christopher Philips points out, you can also hit the kill button before touch down. I've done it many times if I'm forced to land in tall weeds or unlevel surface. I've never broken a prop from a tip over using this method. Seems like props don't break when the motors are shut down.

 

[Eagle's Eye Video]

I'm getting out now before it goes much further.

Note to all; If you want to see this thread shut down, just keep walking down the path you are currently on. I'm old enough to handle it but many may not be and the mods may not see any value in keeping it open if it spends much more time in innuendo land.

Noted... my apologies to anyone I may have made uncomfortable.

 

[CC Rider]

No harm, no fowl. Oh wait, there is: The H!

 

[Rubik]

Hi 2Lip, welcome to the forum.
The gimbal restraint pins are pretty useless. I've done what others have done and tied strong string (surveyor's line) through the rubber grommets to prevent the dreaded separation where the camera wires actually pull completely out of the gimbal slip ring. You will need to drill 2 small holes in the grommet cover. Make sure the string is NOT tight as that could limit free movement of the gimbal. Here's some photos. Note, use SuperGlue or equal to secure the knots.

 

[Eagle's Eye Video]

I disagree, Rubik...

The premise behind only having two restraint pins is, whatever is minimal to keep that camera
steady. In the event of a minor crash (which I have had), the mount will pull apart relatively easily...
I had also thought, well that should be shored up somehow. But if it was more securely attached,
it will be likely to transfer more kinetic energy directly to the camera, resulting in more damage.
With the camera being $500, and the replacement mount being $10, I'll blow through as many
mounts as necessary.

we be cuttin -n- paste postin...

 

[Rubik]

I disagree, Rubik...

The premise behind only having two restraint pins is, whatever is minimal to keep that camera
steady. In the event of a minor crash (which I have had), the mount will pull apart relatively easily...
I had also thought, well that should be shored up somehow. But if it was more securely attached,
it will be likely to transfer more kinetic energy directly to the camera, resulting in more damage.
With the camera being $500, and the replacement mount being $10, I'll blow through as many
mounts as necessary.

we be cuttin -n- paste postin...

See, we can disagree civilly!
I've had both kinds of failure. One where the camera mount fails at the attachment to the body. That was an easy fix with a cheap part, as you stated. The other failure is where the rubber grommets pull out, the little pins failed and the camera pulls the wires out of the vertical axis slip ring. That required a trip to Yuneec and $72 for repairs. That's the type of failure I hope to prevent with the strings. The strings just keep the gimbal and camera together so if the landing (crash) is hard enough, the cheap part fails, releasing the camera/gimbal as an assembly.

 

[PatR]

The purpose of the stop pins is to prevent a suspension system camera from falling off in flight, period. The flanges of the dampers can pull through the mount, they are not designed to be a structural support, so the pins are there to prevent that. They are not designed to save the day during a crash. It's not possible to "crash proof" anything and still leave it light enough to fly. The pins do not "stabilize" the camera in any way.

When adding extra security the best you can hope for is to see the entire gimbal mount tear away from the bottom of the fuselage without taking the wiring inside the fuselage with it, leaving the gimbal assembly securely attached to the lower mount, requiring that a new lower fuselage shell be obtained to repair the damage from that event instead of repairing wiring damage at the gimbal. Thinking that through, it's unlikely the gimbal assembly is going to tear away from the 4 screws securing it to the bottom of the fuselage without also experiencing damage to the fuselage shell.

The secret to making the work is simply not to crash.


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[Rubik]

The purpose of the stop pins is to prevent a suspension system camera from falling off in flight, period. The flanges of the dampers can pull through the mount, they are not designed to be a structural support, so the pins are there to prevent that. They are not designed to save the day during a crash. It's not possible to "crash proof" anything and still leave it light enough to fly. The pins do not "stabilize" the camera in any way.

When adding extra security the best you can hope for is to see the entire gimbal mount tear away from the bottom of the fuselage without taking the wiring inside the fuselage with it, leaving the gimbal assembly securely attached to the lower mount, requiring that a new lower fuselage shell be obtained to repair the damage from that event instead of repairing wiring damage at the gimbal. Thinking that through, it's unlikely the gimbal assembly is going to tear away from the 4 screws securing it to the bottom of the fuselage without also experiencing damage to the fuselage shell.

The secret to making the work is simply not to crash.


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Actually, the guide rails failed on the cheap part that screws to the lower body. This allowed camera/gimbal separation at the sliding contacts leaving the the gimbal and lower body undamaged. In my experience, this is the "preferred" failure point, not the rubber dampers which can lead to wires pulling out. Hence, my strings.
Okay okay, Pat. I'll try not to crash again.

 

[PatR]

Lol


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[2lip]

Hello!

My sentiments exactly. Why I wanted the H. I'm glad you posted that (even though I mentioned it somewhere else)....but felt some weren't happy (or satisfied) with my response. Two different drones completely.


2lip

 

[2lip]

Morning,

I have seen some videos where it looked like fishline (or equivalent) was used - threaded up thru the dampers and down thru the next. I assume 2 dampers on one side, and the other two. Is that what you are referring to? When I ordered my parts (needed 2 dampers and the pin washers) - so many places are out of stock which makes me think those kits are a popular item. Should I stock up? LOL

2lip

I disagree, Rubik...

The premise behind only having two restraint pins is, whatever is minimal to keep that camera
steady. In the event of a minor crash (which I have had), the mount will pull apart relatively easily...
I had also thought, well that should be shored up somehow. But if it was more securely attached,
it will be likely to transfer more kinetic energy directly to the camera, resulting in more damage.
With the camera being $500, and the replacement mount being $10, I'll blow through as many
mounts as necessary.

we be cuttin -n- paste postin...

 

[Eagle's Eye Video]

Vertigo Drones currently has the mount set in stock...

Mount Set: Yuneec Typhoon H CGO3+

A couple of weeks after I had my minor crash... I ordered a second mount (and landing strut)
to have on hand... only $10 and that way I will not have to be grounded for a week waiting on
shipping, or pay additional for UPS/FedEx. After all, we all have a spare tire in the trunk, right?