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worn props and mounts

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Hey all...I just went to change my props on the H as I noticed some play in them and I discovered some of the 2 small locking tabs on the spring loaded buttons are worn...do I have to get these through Yuneec and would anyone have a part #...any help would be appreciated...thanks in advance
 
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Hey all...I just went to change my props on the H as I noticed some play in them and I discovered some of the 2 small locking tabs on the spring loaded buttons are worn...do I have to get these through Yuneec and would anyone have a part #...any help would be appreciated...thanks in advance

I am not sure if it matters or not - - but I bought some awhile back
Installed them and found
that when I went to remove the prop .
I litterely had to hold the
Motor with a rag and channel locks to remove
the prop.
Manufac defect I dunno.
 
I am not sure if it matters or not - - but I bought some awhile back
Installed them and found
that when I went to remove the prop .
I litterely had to hold the
Motor with a rag and channel locks to remove
the prop.
Manufac defect I dunno.
Aftermarket props and adapters do not fit well. I have seen this myself. Always be sure you get OEM Yuneec parts from an authorized Yuneec dealer for that perfect fit, and that perfect "Click".
 
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Aftermarket props and adapters do not fit well. I have seen this myself. Always be sure you get OEM Yuneec parts from an authorized Yuneec dealer for that perfect fit, and that perfect "Click".

Yes out of 3 I had only
1quick release fit well
Thanks
 
As one that rarely removes props I’ve found that switching to different props can end up quite a bit of effort getting them to lock in or release. Something I’ve found that makes it pretty easy is applying half a drop of 3 in 1 oil to the base of opposite sides of the release button where it meets the top of the prop.
 
I’ve found that makes it pretty easy is applying half a drop of 3 in 1 oil
How in the hèll do you split a drop in half? Do you use a special drop splitting tool? Where does one find such a tool?
A good tip nonetheless, however oil is a dust & grit magnet, I like using a wax based lube because it doesn't attract contaminants or get gummed up. There are many to choose from, Boeing make a great product called Boeshield T-9
 
It’s all in the squeeze[emoji6] Graphite would prolly be better but I was limited to using what I had on hand and within arm’s reach. The amount was so little there was no threat of the stuff running down into the motors and cleaning any accumulated gunk out later takes only a blast of contact cleaner.

So essentially I was in a “run whatcha brung” type situation and wanted to see how it worked. It worked great, which sort of surprised me. I’ll say it’s only for those willing to dare though.
 
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In the military we called that "Field Expedience"! I would have done the same. I've been known to steal a half a drop from the vehicle engine's dipstick when in a pinch.:cool:
 
As one that rarely removes props I’ve found that switching to different props can end up quite a bit of effort getting them to lock in or release. Something I’ve found that makes it pretty easy is applying half a drop of 3 in 1 oil to the base of opposite sides of the release button where it meets the top of the prop.

No oils of any kind worked for me,I even tried lightly sanding some areas.
PS Does Yuneec Pilots have a voice recognition keyboard ? So I don't have
to type all this.
Thanks
 
Use your home laptop or computer for voice recognition conversion to text. Depending on the model, your phone might convert voice to text in the messaging app where you could copy and paste to a forum post afterwards.
 
Use your home laptop or computer for voice recognition conversion to text. Depending on the model, your phone might convert voice to text in the messaging app where you could copy and paste to a forum post afterwards.


Thanks
I thought the keyboard on my phone for Yuneec Forum used to have it built it.
Keith
 
Check the settings menu in your phone. For iPhone, speech related stuff is found in settings>general>accessibility.
 
It’s all in the squeeze[emoji6] Graphite would prolly be better but I was limited to using what I had on hand and within arm’s reach. The amount was so little there was no threat of the stuff running down into the motors and cleaning any accumulated gunk out later takes only a blast of contact cleaner.

So essentially I was in a “run whatcha brung” type situation and wanted to see how it worked. It worked great, which sort of surprised me. I’ll say it’s only for those willing to dare though.
My preference would be a silicone lubricant
 
Silicone is “sticky”. PTFE, or Teflon lubes would be better but they don’t hold up well.
 
All need to used sparingly as to minimise dirt sticking to components.
 
Silicone is “sticky”. PTFE, or Teflon lubes would be better but they don’t hold up well.
Pat it depends what silicone grease you are using.
And I cannot understand what your statement means ie "would be better but they don't hold up well". That is a contradiction in terms.
Also Teflon is PTFE. Not to mention that many silicone greases have PTFE in them, like this:
For clarity I was suggesting using a silicone PTFE grease
 
When I said PTFE, or Teflon, I failed to add a comma which might have helped clarify that mention of Teflon was a trade name for PTFE. There was no attempt to make a distinction between them as they are the same[emoji6]
 
When I said PTFE, or Teflon, I failed to add a comma which might have helped clarify that mention of Teflon was a trade name for PTFE. There was no attempt to make a distinction between them as they are the same[emoji6]
OK that explains the teflon ptfe thing. But what about your contradiction in terms "would be better but they don't hold up well"? Can you explain that?
 

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