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MAYTECH CF PROPS FOR H

Until someone categorically proves aftermarket props are better I can't see a reason to buy them. For those trying out new stuff, thanks for your efforts and please keep a detailed record of your observations.


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Well said, pointless gadget accessory victims...
 
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It would be a lot simpler if makers dumped the "twist lock" propeller mounts and returned to a basic flat mounted prop using a couple of m3 screws to secure them to the motor. There's a wide variety of those to choose from. Unfortunately people are lazy and love the "convenience" of a push button prop lock that costs them more money, generates wear to the locking mechanism every time it is installed or removed, and severely limits performance alterations. A lot is sacrificed for convenience.
Nope, that would destroy the portability of the H and make it more likely to be damaged in transit.
 
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Okay, here goes. I tested 4 types of props. OEM, Maytech, Autel Xstars and the tri-blade folding carbon fibers. Sound readings were taken with the H motors running (duh), but NOT in flight. I took two readings, one with the sound meter in the center of all the props at prop level, and another from right in front of the RealSense. Temperatures given are the range found on each motor within 30 sec of landing, using a laser thermometer. Note that all flight times are from 16.6v to 14.4v, and in similar wind. No manuevering other than take-off, minor adjustments to compensate for GPS drift (wasn't using RS), and landing. No landing skid retract. Just minimal hover, about 2-5' off the ground. All in similar breeze of 5-10 (checked with hand anemometer), and similar temp (75-78 deg). Same battery was used each flight, so you know there was some time between.

Times may seem rather short. Keep in mind I had prop guards in place, since I wasn't going to be far from the ground, and I stopped at 14.4v, not at a warning.

OEM: 80.2/76.4dba - 58-67F - 7:40
MT: 80.6/77dba - 67-74F - 8:08
Autel: 77.8/73.6dba - 57-62F - 8:32
TB: 74.1/66.3dba - 70-80F - 9:10

Something I think is worth mentioning: If you use DJI-style props, they need to be very snug. The H motors STOP when they stop, and 2 of my Autels went for independent flight. Keeping that in mind, I tightened the tri-blades down further and FIVE of them took off when the motors stopped. That may be because they were stopped mid-air rather than on the ground though, so they went from flight power, not idle (odd, it wouldn't land, so I killed the motors and let it drop the last 6-8 inches to the grass - in hindsight, RealSense may have been accidentally on and I didn't notice it).

Ralphy, you might want to make the ones with vertical offset more offset. No bumping at idle, but heard it in flight. Most people likely wouldn't hear it as the H would be too far away, but I had it hovering within about 10' of me throughout the hover testing, so I heard it as it compensated for wind (both with the Autels and the tri-blades).

IMG_20170415_121647_551.jpg

IMG_20170415_125155_869.jpg

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Very thorough test there is only one more category that you might have missed: Thrust.
The three blade props may have been generating more thrust and that's why it could not land.

Good testing though. Thanks.
 
Very thorough test there is only one more category that you might have missed: Thrust.
The three blade props may have been generating more thrust and that's why it could not land.

Good testing though. Thanks.

Welcome. Thanks all for being patient...

Thought of the possible lift delta, but I had no problems with the slight maneuvering I did while trying to land (after the timing was done). It dropped from 10' to 1' no problem, it just wouldn't drop those last few inches. Pretty sure the RS was on and I just didn't notice. I'll try again and verify. If it still won't land with RS verified off, I'll do a hand-catch rather than drop it again. Welder's gloves plus the prop guards should protect even from flight-powered carbon fibers...

As for testing thrust, I suppose I can cycle through the types of props again and time it in fastest climb to some arbitrary set height, say 100' (and to be thorough, maybe fast descent from that height)... That would answer the "thrust" question. Probably won't get around to that til next weekend, though. While doing that, I can also get sound level at flight power (hover, fast climb) from a set position (maybe zip-tie the sound meter onto a landing leg to keep the position consistent and point the camera at the meter - anyone know if the camera will get a decent shot of something that close?).
 
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Okay, here goes. I tested 4 types of props. OEM, Maytech, Autel Xstars and the tri-blade folding carbon fibers. Sound readings were taken with the H motors running (duh), but NOT in flight. I took two readings, one with the sound meter in the center of all the props at prop level, and another from right in front of the RealSense. Temperatures given are the range found on each motor within 30 sec of landing, using a laser thermometer. Note that all flight times are from 16.6v to 14.4v, and in similar wind. No manuevering other than take-off, minor adjustments to compensate for GPS drift (wasn't using RS), and landing. No landing skid retract. Just minimal hover, about 2-5' off the ground. All in similar breeze of 5-10 (checked with hand anemometer), and similar temp (75-78 deg). Same battery was used each flight, so you know there was some time between.

Times may seem rather short. Keep in mind I had prop guards in place, since I wasn't going to be far from the ground, and I stopped at 14.4v, not at a warning.

OEM: 80.2/76.4dba - 58-67F - 7:40
MT: 80.6/77dba - 67-74F - 8:08
Autel: 77.8/73.6dba - 57-62F - 8:32
TB: 74.1/66.3dba - 70-80F - 9:10

Something I think is worth mentioning: If you use DJI-style props, they need to be very snug. The H motors STOP when they stop, and 2 of my Autels went for independent flight. Keeping that in mind, I tightened the tri-blades down further and FIVE of them took off when the motors stopped. That may be because they were stopped mid-air rather than on the ground though, so they went from flight power, not idle (odd, it wouldn't land, so I killed the motors and let it drop the last 6-8 inches to the grass - in hindsight, RealSense may have been accidentally on and I didn't notice it).

Ralphy, you might want to make the ones with vertical offset more offset. No bumping at idle, but heard it in flight. Most people likely wouldn't hear it as the H would be too far away, but I had it hovering within about 10' of me throughout the hover testing, so I heard it as it compensated for wind (both with the Autels and the tri-blades).

View attachment 5756

View attachment 5757

View attachment 5758


Well that's some good stuff glad your getting positive results from the invention. If you need any mods done to the adapter just let me know. It's weird some people don't need the offset others need it and some need more. I'm thinking there might be variations in the H fabricated at different times of the year. Quality control!

Lastly if you intend to review the adapter so extensively and would like the stainless one I can front 40% of the cost for you in exchange for reviews or videos promoting it's use.
 
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I purchased these adapters in plastic a few weeks ago and just had chance to install them. I didn't think much about the durability of them as the factory prop mounts are also plastic as well as no one identifying here any durability issues. I did notice that there is a stainless steel option as well as a CF option though. The description also stated: "Strong & Flexible Polished".
For starters, I quickly noticed the adapters I received were not polished and had a rough texture to them probably from the 3d printing process. My initial concern was the inability for these adapters to sit completely flat against the top of the motor. I could have taken some fine sandpaper to them.

Proceeding on, I mounted the adapters and began installing the props. I then noticed that, even by gently spinning the props on, once the prop bottomed out, the adapter broke off. I will repeat that the pressure applied to the prop on installation was very light. The purchased set included an extra but at this point I do not feel it is safe to operate the drone with these adapters. As to the specific stress point on the adapter that broke, it is at the shelf that is just above the screws. I am using the OEM DJI 9450 CF reinforced props. It appears there is a beveled edge inside the adapter where it sits on the motor shaft. Maybe instead of a beveled edge a 90 degree edge would be more appropriate? I have just ordered the stainless steel versions. I appreciate the concept of these adapters and I hope the SS version addresses these issues as this prop mount is a far superior design than the push lock factory design. Seeing as others have used these for some time now without issue maybe there is a manufacturing process change recently?
 
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I purchased these adapters in plastic a few weeks ago and just had chance to install them. I didn't think much about the durability of them as the factory prop mounts are also plastic as well as no one identifying here any durability issues. I did notice that there is a stainless steel option as well as a CF option though. The description also stated: "Strong & Flexible Polished".
For starters, I quickly noticed the adapters I received were not polished and had a rough texture to them probably from the 3d printing process. My initial concern was the inability for these adapters to sit completely flat against the top of the motor. I could have taken some fine sandpaper to them.

Proceeding on, I mounted the adapters and began installing the props. I then noticed that, even by gently spinning the props on, once the prop bottomed out, the adapter broke off. I will repeat that the pressure applied to the prop on installation was very light. The purchased set included an extra but at this point I do not feel it is safe to operate the drone with these adapters. As to the specific stress point on the adapter that broke, it is at the shelf that is just above the screws. I am using the OEM DJI 9450 CF reinforced props. It appears there is a beveled edge inside the adapter where it sits on the motor shaft. Maybe instead of a beveled edge a 90 degree edge would be more appropriate? I have just ordered the stainless steel versions. I appreciate the concept of these adapters and I hope the SS version addresses these issues as this prop mount is a far superior design than the push lock factory design. Seeing as others have used these for some time now without issue maybe there is a manufacturing process change recently?


Ok sorry to hear it broke i know others have used the non polised one in plastic sucessfully. White is the strongest the color pigments weaken the others. Always make sure you look at the two voids inside the 3d print and clean them up if nessesary. It might be shapeways changed the manufacturing process and the plastics might be poor now. They will always credit you towards a new order just be nice when you contact them.

The stainless are badass adpaters but there is a slight shrinkage of 2%-5% around openings thats unpredictable. Use a 1/8" bit to slightly open the interior hole in the center on yhe bottom and a dremel carbide circular burr for the larger opening and it will be a super precise tight fit. If you need screws let me know ill send them for free.


Thanks fly safe! Call anytime 305 834 2929
 
Hi Ralphy. Thanks for the quick feedback. They have just refunded me for the plastic adapters. I am not sure that variation is going to be acceptable as Shapeways advised me that this variation is not limited to the screw openings and motor shaft opening. My concern is to the variation affecting the prop threads. I would hate to get the SS adapters and find a slight wobble in the prop to adapter threads. To avoid this *potential* issue, would you recommend the CF ones instead? I have some 6mm screws but I could use a set of 5mm ones if you have them. I will PM you my contact info. Can you also confirm that this is for a complete set of CF adapters? The site states CF in the title but only lists SS in the drop down. V2.0 Yuneec Typhoon H Carbon fiber prop adapters by ToCaMela on Shapeways
 
Hi Ralphy. Thanks for the quick feedback. They have just refunded me for the plastic adapters. I am not sure that variation is going to be acceptable as Shapeways advised me that this variation is not limited to the screw openings and motor shaft opening. My concern is to the variation affecting the prop threads. I would hate to get the SS adapters and find a slight wobble in the prop to adapter threads. To avoid this *potential* issue, would you recommend the CF ones instead? I have some 6mm screws but I could use a set of 5mm ones if you have them. I will PM you my contact info. Can you also confirm that this is for a complete set of CF adapters? The site states CF in the title but only lists SS in the drop down. V2.0 Yuneec Typhoon H Carbon fiber prop adapters by ToCaMela on Shapeways


Guys it seems the plastic ones are not being produced to the quality they once did them too. Im pulling them from sale. Only stainless will be available. If youd like you can buy from them or from me and get free screws as well as shipping and the peace of mind that it will fit perfect.

$100 shipped full set.
 
I have a question: If you were to lose a prop, how reliable would the opposite blade be if it was subject to the 5-motor error mode, quickly spinning back and forth? Wouldn't there be a risk of the blade getting lose from quick opposing rotations?

I gave the thread a quick look, didn't really have the time to read all the information within the 5 pages it is already. (sorry if this has already been answered)

Greetings!
 
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I have a question: If you were to lose a prop, how reliable would the opposite blade be if it was subject to the 5-motor error mode, quickly spinning back and forth? Wouldn't there be a risk of the blade getting lose from quick opposing rotations?

I gave the thread a quick look, didn't really have the time to read all the information within the 5 pages it is already. (sorry if this has already been answered)

Greetings!


In my testing the only way i lost a blade was by using one plastic adapter and purposely breaking it and super gluing it so it would fly off and i could test the 5 motor function. Wearing a helmet and all it performed well it shook about a foot laterally during the balde flyoff. The blade landed 150' away and it stayed in the air and would fly fine given it lost a blade. Almost no shaking just a lot of wind turbulence.
 
Guys it seems the plastic ones are not being produced to the quality they once did them too. Im pulling them from sale. Only stainless will be available. If youd like you can buy from them or from me and get free screws as well as shipping and the peace of mind that it will fit perfect.
$100 shipped full set.

Ralphy, just read this thread... New to Yuneec. It’s been some time since last post & update on design. Checking where the adapters are currently in design, quality and material options?

I got a little confused on the offset and how that progressed. Was an offset standardized and applied to one of the sets: CW / CCW? Attaching props alternate version, one post indicated a prop style to use a top bolt & trim cap. Did that develope into any reality?

Could you re-post the various contact, URL, part info in one section to ease the skimming through thread.
 
Carbon Fiber on mine after about 3 weeks of busting the originals so often.
They have survived some not so graceful flights.
Had the same problem with fit, filed the tabs on each prop that lead into attachment, smooth now.
 
I use lock washers to keep Autel props on.

Oh, I finally bypassed the need for height offset. I made a jig with a dowel (pivot point) and a Dremel tool with a cutter. All my DJI-intended props are now a few millimeters shorter and the blades won't touch, even at the same level.
 
Hi,

You really have to be careful with parts like propellers or LiPo batteries that can have a serious impact on the proper functioning of a drone.

It is best to buy the original parts, except to have a good feedback on many hours of flight. For example, Tattu 6S LiPo batteries 4000 mAh work well for the Tornado H920, see better, but you can buy them in Europe, exclude USA & Canada at this time. https://www.genstattu.com

Otherwise, the carbon propellers for a drone like the Yuneec Typhoon H480 do not provide much in performance and are much more dangerous in case of injuries. The risk of serious injuries increases for propellers from 10 inches and with carbon, according to ASSURE study: FAA and ASSURE Announce Results of Ground Collision Study – PR

For Maytech products, I've already seen propeller loss problems in flight, with the Yuneec Typhoon Q500 K4. Aeronaut, which is a German manufacturer, seems to me more serious than Maytech for propellers that it offers, a composit of plastic and carbon: aero-naut Modellbau GmbH & Co. KG - HOME


efbfd8eddf.jpg

Aeronaut CAM-Carb.Light-s 13x 5 "M8 re propellers for Typhoon Q500 4K
aero-naut Modellbau GmbH & Co. KG - Product search

Read this old post dealing with Maytech 13 inch carbon prop for Yuneec Q500 and problem:
"If you lose a propeller in the air with a quad is the better way to crash...
I have been informed that the Maytech 13 inch carbon prop for Yuneec Q500 has been upgraded at the end of 2015. The tightening nut 2mm is deeper than former version.
This seems to be due to problems, and manufacturer changed it to makes it combine better to the Q500 motor.
Be carefull to control if the propellers fit to your Typhoon Q500 quad."
Source: maytech props
 

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