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7000 Mah GiFi TH battery available from US supplier

I ordered one from Carolina Dronz and tried it yesterday after a .5c charge. It was windy and about 32F. At 6 minutes into the flight coming back into the wind, I received a low voltage warning of 14.3v so I stopped and it recovered to 15v !. As it is new, I'll give it a few charges before passing judgement but so far am not impressed.

It may give longer flight times with no wind and half throttle, but there's no way it should drop that rapidly flying into ~20-25 mph wind, 30+ gusts. I think it is a low c battery with that much voltage drop. It really surprised me.

I've had this happen with the Yuneec batteries as well. Same scenario of flying into wind a full speed on a full battery.
 
I've had this happen with the Yuneec batteries as well. Same scenario of flying into wind a full speed on a full battery.

Not full speed, maybe 3/4 max, wasn't pushing it hard at all; have flown multiple times in high winds with the Yuneec batteries. It was cold, but the battery wasn't. Like I said, it came as a total surprise, thought something was malfunctioning. After 5 recharges if it still does it that easily, the battery is very low quality, much worse than Yuneec. 6 minutes with additional .7v drop beyond the initial takeoff drop is absurd. Batteries get ruined from events like this.Then there's the forced landing in the fw. I wonder if once that is engaged, you can't back out if the voltage recovers. This isn't giving me warm fuzzy feelings.

The H is my smallest copter other than a Solo (no longer have the P4) and I fly them hard quite often; all are Arducopter powered. With current limiting, there's no issue worrying about voltage dropping below safe levels using high capacity 15-20 c batteries as the throttle is limited to prevent battery damage. It would be a really good addition to their FC system to have this feature.

Tattu and Lumenier have served me well, and have also used several MS for various uses, but never much above 2c. Yes I toasted one once.
 
I've been flying a 7000 battery since Nov 12. At first getting 16 minutes from both it and a stock battery, which had a number of cycles, on a RealSense TH flying in identical hover tests.

After 3 cycles, the 7000 battery compared to the same stock battery, both this time powering a Standard H (no RS), flew 19 min, and the stock battery 18 minutes.

The batteries were both charged to 16.8 and flown until 14.3, first alert. It could be that the 7000 will improve more after 10-12 more cycles.
 
Yes I can now confirm that the 7000mAh GIFI batteries sold by Carolina Dronz are very well built. As soon as I received the battery I put it on my Hitec X2 Plus charger to check the IR Internal Resistance because lately when I've been testing the stock Yuneec batteries resistance the new GIFI battery read out at 5,4,6,5 for the 4 cells that it has.The Yuneec Stock Batteries have been reading around 25-40 total mOHM's with the 1st cell in each of my 2 stock Yuneec batteries have been reading what I'm thinking to be a little bit higher than they should at up to a max of 27 mOHM's for the single 1st cell yet the other 3 cells reading consistently around 7-16mOHMs on each of the cells. Has anyone else had this same kind of reading when testing the resistance of any of your batteries? Otherwise what have any of your readings been?
 
Yes I can now confirm that the 7000mAh GIFI batteries sold by Carolina Dronz are very well built. As soon as I received the battery I put it on my Hitec X2 Plus charger to check the IR Internal Resistance because lately when I've been testing the stock Yuneec batteries resistance the new GIFI battery read out at 5,4,6,5 for the 4 cells that it has.The Yuneec Stock Batteries have been reading around 25-40 total mOHM's with the 1st cell in each of my 2 stock Yuneec batteries have been reading what I'm thinking to be a little bit higher than they should at up to a max of 27 mOHM's for the single 1st cell yet the other 3 cells reading consistently around 7-16mOHMs on each of the cells. Has anyone else had this same kind of reading when testing the resistance of any of your batteries? Otherwise what have any of your readings been?


Your Yuneec battery will die at approx 100cycles. Are you close to that number?

They are built to perform within warranty period .

Once you cycle the GIFI battery over 100 cycles you'll know if you actually have a quality battery.

Good luck
 
I already cycled those 7000mah gifi lipo 6x.
I use a hitec charger but have a small problem. the balancing wont stop when i charge at 2A the charge is going until 16,75V and then begins to balance. I let him balance 600 min and still it did not stop.
cell difference is 0,018V after 600 min. Have no clue what to do ...
When i do a Storage discharge until 15,20 V it takes around 670 min but at least it stops.
 
[QUOTE="Marnix Verschraegen, post: 67086, member: already cycled those 7000mah gifi lipo 6x.
I use a hitec charger but have a small problem. the balancing wont stop when i charge at 2A the charge is going until 16,75V and then begins to balance. I let him balance 600 min and still it did not stop.
cell difference is 0,018V after 600 min. Have no clue what to do ...
When i do a Storage discharge until 15,20 V it takes around 670 min but at least it stops.[/QUOTE]


Thats not a big deal .02 volts is not an issue. Sometimes thats happened to me with good batteries and on the next charge they balance better sometimes it takes 3 or 4 cycles more to get it to balance. the turnigy reaktor considers the balance done if its withing .1v
 
Your Yuneec battery will die at approx 100cycles. Are you close to that number?

They are built to perform within warranty period .

Once you cycle the GIFI battery over 100 cycles you'll know if you actually have a quality battery.

Good luck

True good point Ralphy, Unfortunately, I haven't been keeping track of my Yuneec batteries at all, the only reason I've just now gotten my readings, is because I had thought at first that my Yuneec batteries were dead when I found that they weren't charging then I finally found that my issue was instead my charger that was dying. My IR reading from my Yuneec batteries do concern me a little with the 1st cell of each having the highest numbers consistently but at the same time when one tests the IR of any battery they have to take into account not only their battery that is being tested but also any wiring that connects that battery to the charger. I say this because I also purchased a new battery adapter from Carolina Dronz as I've been using a pretty stout 3D printed adapter & I was able to see slight IR improvements.

I'm pretty sure that I've read this way more than once before on this forum but could someone tell me if there is any proper or better procedure to break in a new lipo battery so that I can get the most possible life from them? Thanks Tom C
 
True good point Ralphy, Unfortunately, I haven't been keeping track of my Yuneec batteries at all, the only reason I've just now gotten my readings, is because I had thought at first that my Yuneec batteries were dead when I found that they weren't charging then I finally found that my issue was instead my charger that was dying. My IR reading from my Yuneec batteries do concern me a little with the 1st cell of each having the highest numbers consistently but at the same time when one tests the IR of any battery they have to take into account not only their battery that is being tested but also any wiring that connects that battery to the charger. I say this because I also purchased a new battery adapter from Carolina Dronz as I've been using a pretty stout 3D printed adapter & I was able to see slight IR improvements.

I'm pretty sure that I've read this way more than once before on this forum but could someone tell me if there is any proper or better procedure to break in a new lipo battery so that I can get the most possible life from them? Thanks Tom C

I believe its to charge it fully fly it down to 50% capacity let it cool and charge it at .5c until it tops off balanced.

Then you can do a full flight down to 20% capacity 14.1v

There are many great suppliers now making power solutions for the typhoon H which is great. The selections are great as well as the prices. Happy flying
 
I believe its to charge it fully fly it down to 50% capacity let it cool and charge it at .5c until it tops off balanced.

Then you can do a full flight down to 20% capacity 14.1v

There are many great suppliers now making power solutions for the typhoon H which is great. The selections are great as well as the prices. Happy flying

Hey Ralphy,
When you say that there are many suppliers that make power solutions for the Typhoon H. What are you meaning by that? IE are you saying there are many chargers or many batteries? Thank you for the insight on what to do with a new lipo I'm going to do just that, hopefully that along with the battery quality that I'll get best life out of it. Thanks Tom C
 
Hey Ralphy,
When you say that there are many suppliers that make power solutions for the Typhoon H. What are you meaning by that? IE are you saying there are many chargers or many batteries? Thank you for the insight on what to do with a new lipo I'm going to do just that, hopefully that along with the battery quality that I'll get best life out of it. Thanks Tom C

Yes basically several suppliers are making charge adpaters and battery options aside from the factory ones.

Time will tell which are the best!
 
Oh ok, I think I found a good charger adapter for now from Carolina Dronz because it has the balance cables all in a single black cable that would've had to be professionally made being the type of crimped end it has on the end of the balance wires & at the end where the battery connects to it its all nicely molded into the plug. But I'm not sure exactly what you've seen but thus far that is one of the best that I know of, but I believe that you have owned your H & most likely been around UAV's much longer than me, So I'd be interested in knowing what manufacturers you are talking about for both adapters & batteries. If you don't want to divulge that info on the thread could you PM me because I've been in constant search of the "bigger & the better". I've been talking with another member on here about possibly trying out a variety of different Props for the H & he is even going to try out a few triple blade props in his tests. So yes I'm willing to try out most any mod that will better the performance of my H no matter what way that performance come in. Thanks Tom C
 
He will likely be disappointed with three blade props. Although often quieter, they are generally less efficient. Quite a bit less.


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....and now venom Joined in on the typhoon h power bandwagon. Still no one makes an 8000mah battery. Christmas is almost here lol. I am going to write an email to Elon Musk and ask him to produce some real batteries for the typhoon H like the ones in the telsa Made in America.
 
Interesting. Venom claiming 6700 mAh, price $130 from several suppliers. Not very competitive with GiFi's from Car. Dronz.
I think as TH battery prices become more stabilized that quality, battery life, will be the most important criteria.

The market might evolve If Yuneec themselves were to move to a LIHV battery as standard equipment. Or to a 5S.:eek:
 
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Interesting. Venom claiming 6700 mAh, price $130 from several suppliers. Not very competitive with GiFi's from Car. Dronz.
I think as TH battery prices become more stabilized that quality, battery life, will be the most important criteria.

The market might evolve If Yuneec themselves were to move to a LIHV battery as standard equipment. Or to a 5S.:eek:

Hows your 8000 LIHV holding up so far Ray? I never got around to buying one.
 
I have two 8000s now. One I have flown several times, but only from charging to 17.2. I'll pump it up soon and fly it in a standard TH. These LIPOs and LIHVs seem to do better after 10 or so uses. I don't intend to promote the LIHVs, too many unknowns. Personally, the 16-18 min flights are fine for me.
 
It's true that 15 min is good but sometimes the extra time can save it in an emergency. The reason I asked is because I've had good results with my 8000mah lipo and I'm a couple days away from releasing the V 3.0 of the battery solutions for the H. It will be only $35 bucks and particularly designed for the 8000mah. No balance issues and no tray which will save several grams. I wanted your feedback on it since your always involved with these things.
 

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