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About to be a yuneecer ( not even know it makes any sense)

Ok ...so what is going on in the youtube video from terrestrial imaging that talks about converting an ST-16 into a ST-16+.... has nothing to do with the ST-16s....great!
Correct! That is converting one of the internal 2.4GHz Zigbee RC antennas to an external (same as the ST-16+which is not an official nomenclature).

.....Idon't want to mix things up but i have to ask it...... Team mode with an H520..... the second transmitter has to be an ST-16s ?
That is absolutely correct!
 
Max_IT said:
.....Idon't want to mix things up but i have to ask it...... Team mode with an H520..... the second transmitter has to be an ST-16s ?

That is absolutely correct!

I this, I do not have it so clear, and I would play that by the forum a colleague put up a video where he used for the camera a ST16 and flew with a ST16S an H520. I think this doubt came up again.

P.D.: I found something


P.D.2: I still can't find the video, if someone remembers and is kind enough to put it in :)
 
Max_IT said:
.....Idon't want to mix things up but i have to ask it...... Team mode with an H520..... the second transmitter has to be an ST-16s ?



I this, I do not have it so clear, and I would play that by the forum a colleague put up a video where he used for the camera a ST16 and flew with a ST16S an H520. I think this doubt came up again.

P.D.: I found something


P.D.2: I still can't find the video, if someone remembers and is kind enough to put it in :)
..that would be awesome ......

I have seen dan's ( from yuneec UK) youtube video about team mode .
He says that the primary transmitter will became the camera controller and the second one will fly the aircraft......
 
I've got two builds of H520s. One I keep on the bleeding edge firmware and the other is the release. The early one has an st16 and the newer one has st16s. They both do exactly the same thing in my use experience except for the full-size USB in the S. Both controllers will do Team Mode/Slave Mode in either direction. Android builds are the same as well. Confusing to me, but I have no way of knowing where my equipment is coming from.
 
Hi again everybody.
I'm not sure if i have to start a new tread and i know it has been already discussed but i need to know it ....... i'm talking about the H520 battery .
I have bought the SkyRC q200 charger, and i would like to know exactly what the best settings should be . ( to charge the h520 battery), like capacity cut off , safety timer, charging amp , discharging amp ..etc.
One more question ... i know every lipo cell has a nominal voltage of 3.7v , so a 4s should have 4x3.7v = 14.8v
Why the h. the h520 battery has a 15.2v total ? is it a HV lipo ?

Thank you
 
Hi again everybody.
I'm not sure if i have to start a new tread and i know it has been already discussed but i need to know it ....... i'm talking about the H520 battery .
I have bought the SkyRC q200 charger, and i would like to know exactly what the best settings should be . ( to charge the h520 battery), like capacity cut off , safety timer, charging amp , discharging amp ..etc.
One more question ... i know every lipo cell has a nominal voltage of 3.7v , so a 4s should have 4x3.7v = 14.8v
Why the h. the h520 battery has a 15.2v total ? is it a HV lipo ?

Thank you
I don't know that charger, but the DY5 has 70w ports and charges at 6.0amps. I don't know how it is gauging capacity which is a good question because I just purchased batteries that are advertised to have 1700mah more than the stock batteries. From what I can tell by runtime it seems to be true.
 
I don't know that charger, but the DY5 has 70w ports and charges at 6.0amps. I don't know how it is gauging capacity which is a good question because I just purchased batteries that are advertised to have 1700mah more than the stock batteries. From what I can tell by runtime it seems to be true.
That is one more question ...... the official DY5, charges at 6 amps but isn't better to charge at 1c? I have found a unofficial battery that has 7900 mah , not sure if bigger capacity can have any bad influence to the drone .

Does anyone know what the numbers above means ?

1576444126860.png
 
Last edited:
Charging at 1C is a general rule with LiPo and LiHV batteries. The way to figure the amperage to charge at is to take the capacity rating in Amp hours (Ah - move the decimal point in mAh ratings 3 positions to the left).

The 7900 mAh battery is about 50% larger than the 5250 mAh OEM battery. Don’t expect to get an extra 50% longer flight time though. If the larger capacity battery has cells of the same discharge current rating as the OEM it will weigh proportionately more and lessen the extended flight time. If the cells have a lower discharge current rating, you may get only slightly more flight time or even possibly less than the OEM batteries.
 
The H520 batteries are 4s, but I have not found documentation of their C rating. I am guessing close to 40C with the load that the H520 pulls. If that is the case then 6 amps is pretty conservative. In car racing we use 50-100C and regularly charge at 10-20 amps.

I can vouch for the GiFi Power 7900mah and I do get about 5 minutes more runtime.
 
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The H520 batteries are 4s, but I have not found documentation of their C rating. I am guessing close to 40C with the load that the H520 pulls. If that is the case then 6 amps is pretty conservative. In car racing we use 50-100C and regularly charge at 10-20 amps.

I can vouch for the GiFi Power 7900mah and I do get about 5 minutes more runtime.
What flight times do you get from the OEM batteries on average?

For your car racing batteries, what capacities are you using and are they rated for higher than 1C charging. I know some of the batteries for racing quads have higher charging rates, but their useful life times are also shorter.
 
What flight times do you get from the OEM batteries on average?

For your car racing batteries, what capacities are you using and are they rated for higher than 1C charging. I know some of the batteries for racing quads have higher charging rates, but their useful life times are also shorter.
in perfect conditions I get about 18 minutes when flying a continuous mapping mission. I get right at about 5 more minutes with the aftermarket battery. I've been running them for about three months now and haven't noticed anything strange.
You might be right about the possible difference between our racing batteries and the standard drone batteries. The manufacturer recommends a limit of 20 so of course there are people that do that, but I normally charge mine at 10 which hopefully is helping my lifespan a little.
 
@Max_IT itvappears that you will get about five extra minutes with the GiFi 7900 mAh battery compared to the OEM batteries.

Thanks for the info @chascoadmin.
 
I think you're confusing concepts, one thing is the C download rating and another is the load rating. The normal charge is 1 C or 1.5 at most (99.9% of normal LIPO batteries) and another thing is the C discharge rating that if it goes up much more.

With a 10c discharge for the H520 as long as it has more than 5 amps it is more than enough.

To charge them? the charger when you indicate that it is a LIPO already knows how much to charge it, just indicate their milliamperes hour, the number of cells and ready to charge.

In other words, to charge at 1c a lipo of 5Ah, the charger puts 5 amps in the battery, if it is 7.9Ah puts 7.9amperes (as long as the charger is able to provide that amperage). In case the charger is not able to supply those 7.9amps the charging ratio decreases to the maximum it can. The charger charges at a maximum of 5 amps? because the ratio decreases, the time increases but it charges exactly the same.

Everyone should be aware that a charger with a maximum of 10A (in a channel) is not capable of charging a 20000mAh battery, it is capable of doing so but will charge it to 0.5c.
 
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Great, thanks for that clarification! I am still trying to learn these drone batteries, but thankfully we have smart chargers and are not trying to push the edge like racing.

I totally blanked on the fact that the charger either knows the voltage or on my racing charger knows according to the number of cells or you can manually set the voltage and the chargers know when to stop.
 
I don't feel safe using third party battery ( not yet ) maybe because if something bad happen , is 100% sure yuneec going to say it is your fault because the battery. ( can they know what kind of battery is plugged in ?...from the log file)

The only things i have to edit to charge the battery is
1) how many cells the battery has
2) how many amps to use to charge it ( 1c = 1 hour charging)


Now, back to the 15.2 V thing, is it just because they use a nominal Voltage of 3.8 V per cell instead of 3.7V?

3) How much Voltage has a original fully charged battery ?
4) when , at what voltage am i suppose to land ... ?
5) storage mode is ste to 3.8 V?
excuse me if i'mbeen repetitive
 
Only knowledge I have so far...

1) The batteries are 4s
2) 4s are 14.8v
3) My charge reports 4.35v per cell when fully charged
4) Then that is 17.4v
5) Yes, my charger reports about 3.85v at storage
 
On point number 2)

4S LiPo is 14.8V for nominal voltage (Yuneec Power 4 batteries)

4S LiHV is 15.2V for nominal voltage (Yuneec Power 4P batteries)
 
Correct, it is the nominal load, instead of storing 4.2v per cell, the LiHV are 4.35v per cell. What we really need to look at is the load per cell, but we have done wrong (for simplicity of information) give the load in %.

For the record, 3.7v is the recommended charge not to exceed when you're discharging the battery. You can quietly go down to 3.5v per cell and nothing happens and when that voltage drops is when the H520 undertakes the RTL, activates the failsafe of the battery and this for now can not be modified. I have already lowered many times the batteries to 3.3v and there is no problem, the only problem would come if they go down from 3v, then you have run out of battery and you have to buy another one, you ruin it.

The nominal voltage 3.7v or 3.85v is usually taken at the midpoint of the payload and serves as a reference for making a storage load. Only loaders that support LiHV are able to do this. It is the same as a normal LIPO but change those two parameters, 3.85v and 4.35v per cell, the rest is exactly the same and you have to take the same precautions and considerations.

LiHV batteries can also be charged with a normal LIPO charger and when the charger cuts off the charge, finish charging them with the original Yuneec charger if you do not have a LiHV charger. That's how I do it and without any problem, they are already balanced.

Keep in mind that what is known as fast charging is to charge the battery up to 80% of its capacity, directly charging each cell. When it reaches 80% of its capacity begins the process of balancing the cells which is really the one that takes more time. That's why making fast loads a few times is not bad, but it is mandatory to make a balancing of cells every 3 or 4 fast loads. This is because you have to preserve the life of each cell and do not load or unload some cells faster than others.

Charging at 1C does not always mean charging in 1 hour, there are more factors to be taken into account, but more or less you could say that in general you can think that.

Yes Max_IT, H520 batteries are LiHV.
 
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