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After a Q500 and CGO2GB cable schematic !

That might be a clue, or it might be normal. I've never measured the PWM signal when the camera was in service. Give me a few minutes. I'm putting my camera back together, and I will try it on my drone. Not sure how to do it with the drone shell already assembled, will have to figure it out.

I think you have found a clue. The PWM voltage range stays the same when the camera is in service. About 1.55 v when full up, about 1.68v when full down. (uncalibrated MM, so not sure the precise voltage).
 
Sorry about the last post. I hit "post" before I saw your last reply. Sounds like I need to do something more on the drawing to ensure everyone can tell which side is left, and which is right. Need to catch up with you on a couple things to know where you are:
1.) I understand the camera is operating correctly now?
2.) I understand the rear row PWM point actually works on your version of the board? (THAT is good news for many)
3.) Using numbers from the drawing, which pins were reversed?
 
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Sorry about the last post. I hit "post" before I say your last reply. Sounds like I need to do something more on the drawing to ensure everyone can tell which side is left, and which is right. Need to catch up with you on a couple things to know where you are:
1.) I understand the camera is operating correctly now?
2.) I understand the rear row PWM point actually works on your version of the board? (THAT is good news for many)
3.) Using numbers from the drawing, which pins were reversed?
1 Yes, absolutely no problems with the tilt now ! (there is slight buzz from the camera yaw motor but that is because I need to adjust the pot a little more)
2 By the rear pwm point You mean the pwm hole right next to original point ? if no then please clarify as I can test it out for ya!

3 Both connector pins were reversed, I should have looked better at the picture and those little details at the connector drawing.

The pin in picture is working, did You mean that one ?
 

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1 Yes, absolutely no problems with the tilt now ! (there is slight buzz from the camera yaw motor but that is because I need to adjust the pot a little more)
2 By the rear pwm point You mean the pwm hole right next to original point ? if no then please clarify as I can test it out for ya!

3 Both connector pins were reversed, I should have looked better at the picture and those little details at the connector drawing.

No, I don't think it is a good idea to test the pwm hole next to the original. Your camera is working, and it is not worth risking it.
I misunderstood your words " the original tranny on motherboard seems to be fried, as I connected it to that and wouldnt work. works only on the spare PWm pinout" to mean that you had swapped to the PWM hole next to original.
Did you mean that you used one of the alternate connectors on the camera end?
 
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Sorry about the last post. I hit "post" before I say your last reply. Sounds like I need to do something more on the drawing to ensure everyone can tell which side is left, and which is right. Need to catch up with you on a couple things to know where you are:
1.) I understand the camera is operating correctly now?
2.) I understand the rear row PWM point actually works on your version of the board? (THAT is good news for many)
3.) Using numbers from the drawing, which pins were reversed?
No, I don't think it is a good idea to test the pwm hole next to the original. Your camera is working, and it is not worth risking it.
I misunderstood your words " the original tranny on motherboard seems to be fried, as I connected it to that and wouldnt work. works only on the spare PWm pinout" to mean that you had swapped to the PWM hole next to original.
Did you mean you mean that you used one of the alternate connectors on the camera end?
Added a picture on my last post.
 
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That is what I originally thought you meant. Yes, that is exactly what I meant by the question. This means that those who have a problem with the normal pin can sometimes swap to this one, at least on your version of the board. That is a very good piece of information to learn. You do good work, by the way. That solder looks great, and you can't tell the box and pins were ever there.
 
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That is what I originally thought you meant. Yes, that is exactly what I meant by the question. This means that those who have a problem with the normal pin can sometimes swap to this one, at least on your version of the board. That is a very good piece of information to learn. You do good work, by the way. That solder looks great, and you can't tell the box and pins were ever there.
yep, the original pin where the white wire goes didnt work after I plugged the PWM in the correct pin on the gimbal, looks like it was dead before I even bought the drone (bought the drone for 90 euros shipped from uk after a heavy crash, gimbal aluminium arm was bent badly, quarter of the drone frame was broken off, camera connectors broken off, burnt esc and and many more small problems, Still rocking the old frame wich i plastic welded ( the plastic is PP so easily to find spare material for plastic welding, except the landing gear, that is a PP too but with 30% glass fiber) runs good, have no problems of it bending. Haha thanks man, You did most of the work - obviously my drone would not be 95% done without You, the info You told me cant be found anywhere else on the internet, struggled for months to fix it... Cant thank You enough man !
 
Thanks for the good words. Makes me feel good, and this was a fun project.

@Shobos, you have skills, the ability to think, and the determination to get things done. These things are always of great value. I hope you will consider adding your mark to the NEW Yuneec Pilots Locations - GoogleMaps. I hope to see you again on the forum.
I know it's almost sunrise in your part of the world. Sleep well.
 
[QUOTE="Shobos, post: 172877, member: 18538" (there is slight buzz from the camera yaw motor but that is because I need to adjust the pot a little more)[/QUOTE]

This quote is from your earlier post. I forgot about it until just now.
The camera also makes a "buzzing" noise if the rear balance weight is out of adjustment. You can adjust the rear weight by turning it like a knob. It doesn't hurt to make big changes until you get in the right area, then tweak it in. Maybe try this before adjusting the slider pot? Messing with the slider pot can sometimes unbalance the system. I don't adjust it unless I absolutely have to, and have not always been successful when I did.
 
[QUOTE="Shobos, post: 172877, member: 18538" (there is slight buzz from the camera yaw motor but that is because I need to adjust the pot a little more)

This quote is from your earlier post. I forgot about it until just now.
The camera also makes a "buzzing" noise if the rear balance weight is out of adjustment. You can adjust the rear weight by turning it like a knob. It doesn't hurt to make big changes until you get in the right area, then tweak it in. Maybe try this before adjusting the slider pot? Messing with the slider pot can sometimes unbalance the system. I don't adjust it unless I absolutely have to, and have not always been successful when I did.[/QUOTE]


Hello ! Yep but my camera came without weight, ive added some but it seems that its too much or too less, dont really know. Im thinking of tuning the pot because my camera is not middle, its a little bit on the side, it does return to the same position tho.
 
my camera came without weight, ive added some but it seems that its too much or too less, dont really know. Im thinking of tuning the pot because my camera is not middle, its a little bit on the side, it does return to the same position tho.

The balance is VERY sensitive. The weight itself is very light, and the final adjustments are just a couple "minutes" of rotation on each tweek. I don't know of a good way to balance the camera other than replacing the weight. But you need to do it. The buzzing will make your photos/videos look slightly out of focus. And, of course, vibration is not good long term for the mechanical and electrical joints.

The camera alignment bothers me also when it is not perfect, but after making it worse a couple times, and actually damaging the slider a couple times, my tolerance grew. Some of the camera posts turn "fairly" easily, some are stuck so tight they can't be moved.
 
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The balance is VERY sensitive. The weight itself is very light, and the final adjustments are just a couple "minutes" of rotation on each tweek. I don't know of a good way to balance the camera other than replacing the weight. But you need to do it. The buzzing will make your photos/videos look slightly out of focus. And, of course, vibration is not good long term for the mechanical and electrical joints.

The camera alignment bothers me also when it is not perfect, but after making it worse a couple times, and actually damaging the slider a couple times, my tolerance grew. Some of the camera posts turn "fairly" easily, some are stuck so tight they can't be moved.
Thanks for the info, ill see what i can do to fix this !
 

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