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Annoying “auto”-rotation during flight

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Hi all,

I have experienced an annoying “auto”-rotation during my latest couple of flights. At first I did several compass calibrations but with no further results. Through a conversation with my local “drone”-pusher, he mentioned either a scewed arm, damaged propeller or issues with the controller stick. So during todays flight I went into the rc monitor option and saw these values depicted (roughly -25 on left stick). I have no way to perform a controller calibration within the menues like on the older firmware so what can I do except reaching out to Yuneec support? IMG_3538.jpg
 
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Bumped the trim? Dirt down in gimble . Maybe esc feedback problem. With heli’s it’s servo or esc malfunction. Do a software download case there’s a glitch.Don’t fly it like that. That’s why preflights pick that up before one wrecks something. Hard landings can sometimes mess the connections up..’.Take the lid off. Does it change with link off to the machine...Might eliminate 1/2 the equation if they works
 
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Bumped the trim? Dirt down in gimble . Maybe esc feedback problem. With heli’s it’s servo or esc malfunction. Do a software download case there’s a glitch.Don’t fly it like that. That’s why preflights pick that up before one wrecks something. Hard landings can sometimes mess the connections up..’.Take the lid off. Does it change with link off to the machine...Might eliminate 1/2 the equation if they works

I can fly it fine, just need to adjust for the rotation while its moving or hovering. For now its been a pretty stationary assignment, 25m up on a fixed location and photo of construction site but since I cant recalibrate the controls its pretty much useless. I bought a DJI Air 2s on Friday so that will have to act as stand in until I can get this H+ back to flying state.
 
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I can fly it fine, just need to adjust for the rotation while its moving or hovering. For now its been a pretty stationary assignment, 25m up on a fixed location and photo of construction site but since I cant recalibrate the controls its pretty much useless. I bought a DJI Air 2s on Friday so that will have to act as stand in until I can get this H+ back to flying state.
Will the gimble push the scale all the way top. +75 or +100 If off the same as down at top, then it’s a trim issue or radio. I am not impressed with the ST 16. Trims and subtrims should be easy to do. Ive used a lot of receivers, this isn’t the most intuitive. All the info in the software should be available by laptop or the receiver.. I’m still in the testing stage, so I can’t give an honest review. Trims are for tweaking, not setup
 
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Will the gimble push the scale all the way top. If off the same as down at top, then it’s a trim issue or radio. I am not impressed with the ST 16. Trims and subtrims should be easy to do. Ive used a lot of receivers, this isn’t the most intuitive

Everything is working just fine, just the left stick which is automatically off by -25 so it causes the rotation. I also noticed that the stick seems “sluggish” when pulled/pushed sideways, not “jumping” back to center in the rc monitor but it does physically.
 
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Everything is working just fine, just the left stick which is automatically off by -25 so it causes the rotation. I also noticed that the stick seems “sluggish” when pulled/pushed sideways, not “jumping” back to center in the rc monitor but it does physically.
Anything with sugar in it will cause that. Take it apart and clean it. Kinda like computer keys. Think you have found the problem. Good
 

h-elsner

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Defect or dirty potentiometer. This cannot be solved by stick calibration. If you want to open the ST16 and try to solve it by yourself, pull and plug the two connectores and clean the poti with a good contact spray. If it response without delay and come near the zero position do a stick calibration with the hidden menu.

I don't know why it is very often the Yaw poti. I have had that too.

br HE
 

WTFDproject

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The calibration is not the first response. Do a vigorous "stirring" of the stick for a few seconds to see if the reading clears. If not, use some contact cleaner on the pots and try again.
Most calibration videos you see on the internet are WRONG. Please ensure you are aware of the importance of centering both sliders prior to entering the next screen. Refer to this video of the similar ST16 calibration by @Steve Carr:

Here is the access to ST16S stick calibration:
 

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For the contact cleaner, I suggest CRC 2-26, it's an excellent product.
I've cleaned gimbal potentiometers onto my ST10+, after more than one year they are still working perfectly.
Electronic safe. If it’s sugar, it’s a bummer
 
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The calibration is not the first response. Do a vigorous "stirring" of the stick for a few seconds to see if the reading clears. If not, use some contact cleaner on the pots and try again.
Most calibration videos you see on the internet are WRONG. Please ensure you are aware of the importance of centering both sliders prior to entering the next screen. Refer to this video of the similar ST16 calibration by @Steve Carr:

Here is the access to ST16S stick calibration:
Yep. Shouldn’t have to do it..Something made it change.
 
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Electronic safe. If it’s sugar, it’s a bummer
It is...
"II. Applications
Recommended for use on electrical connectors, relays, circuit breakers, transformers, switchgear, motors,
generators, controls, instruments, communication assemblies, electronics, alarm systems, starters, tubing, castings,
gears, weld rod, wire, fixtures, dies, jigs, shim stock, chucks, drill rod, heat treated parts, machined surfaces, finished
welds, aluminum extrusions, air actuated tools, conveyors, frozen joints, locks, hoists, etc. Excellent for use around
modern plastics and insulators. Recommended for restoring electrical properties to water or flood damaged
equipment."
 

WTFDproject

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So during todays flight I went into the rc monitor option and saw these values depicted (roughly -25 on left stick). I have no way to perform a controller calibration within the menues like on the older firmware so what can I do except reaching out to Yuneec support?
Reading my reply to you earlier, I am concerned that it may appear I was recommending the calibration to address your issue. I am not. I fully agree with @DoomMeister that you have a problem with the potentiometer on that stick.
If you clear the problem, you will not need calibration.
If you use calibration instead of fixing the problem, you are making yourself vulnerable to a sudden change in control behavior if the problem fixes itself while in flight.
It is unlikely that one stick has a calibration issue.
 

Steve Carr

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@Luftdrone.dk you mentioned the stick appeared to be sluggish and not returning to zero during your test in RC Monitor. That is a sure sign of a resistance problem with the contacts on the yaw potentiometer. As mentioned by others, first do a rapid stir of the stick while watching it in RC monitor. If it continues to be sluggish, remove the rubber plug on the backside of the controller which is directly behind the left stick. Use that opening to spray the cleaner on the pot and continue to stir the stick. Recheck it again in RC Monitor. If the cleaning corrects the sluggish response but it still won't return to zero, you may need to do the calibration.


 
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DoomMeister

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Thanks everyone for all the suggestions. I have now opted to file a supportcase with Yuneec EU to see what their response might be.
They will say to send it in and and replace the control gimbal. Thus robbing you of weeks of use while they diddle around fixing a common problem that is easily fixed by you. It is rare that a good cleaning will not fix the issue. Take a look at this document.
 

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They will say to send it in and and replace the control gimbal. Thus robbing you of weeks of use while they diddle around fixing a common problem that is easily fixed by you. It is rare that a good cleaning will not fix the issue. Take a look at this document.
Thanks, I will see if I dare venture into disassembling my controller :) As mentioned earlier, I just got myself a DJI Air 2S so sending off the controller to repair and ensuring that it is done properly may be worth it. I plan to sell off the H+ eventually and wouldnt want the future owner to be stuck with selfmaintenance right out of the gate :)
 
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I just want to mention, "Autorotation is a state of flight in which the main rotor system of a helicopter or other rotary-wing aircraft turns by the action of air moving up through the rotor, as with an autogyro, rather than engine power driving the rotor. Basically it's when there is a loss of engine power and you rely on the blades (using the collective stick)to safely guide you to the ground.
So you are not experiencing autorotation, just a type of misalignment with one of your motors.
Pilot and a former Crew Chief AH-1G Cobra Helicopters.
 
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