Cannot Get to a New Model successfully.

Chroma Pilot · Feb 8, 2021

Hi Folks, 1st up, I have had my TH 'repaired/modified' by Haydn here in OZ due to suspected drifting at take off due to suspect stick pots, I would lose control after take and have to set it down real quick, it tripped over once and wound up inverted in the grass on its last ,er um flight. When I eventually used to pop it up to a 'safe' height it appeared to fly well.
After Haydn returned it and updating the firmware in the bird I did the following, turned it on and left outside with a perfect view of the sky for a few hours to you know why and then attempted a compass cal. again and again- never got past the 1st two lights when it fails the cal.
Spoke to Haydn (no E here as he reckons his folks wouldn't buy another vowel

), anyway moving on. he suggested trying a New Model in the ST16. I have followed the procedure to the letter and cannot achieve the flashing main LED Orange after the tilting exercise, even after multiple restarts for New Model, yes I delete new Model every time and start from scratch.

Questions. After fully initiallising the bird should the main LED still be flashing blue or am I missing something? I usually wait about 10mins after the camera sorts itself out.
P.S The bird has never been crashed, just tripped over at walking speed.
Compass Cal. has/is done in my backyard and has been successful at both in the past and when at my flying site and both times in my wheelchair. (Oz Aluminium or US Alloominum

) the motor magnets are 6 inches off the ground and would be about 3/4 feet way from the bird. Got my neighbour from across the road to try once or twice to provide 'mag seperation), no dice.

Haydn suggested I quiz this Forum, he is Yuneec Australia go to Fella.

WTFDproject · Feb 8, 2021

Steve,
Good to hear from you.
Yes, flashing blue is normal until you get it bound.
I would first try turning off both drone and controller. Turn on only the drone, and tilt it to see if the LED starts flashing orange.
If that does not work, you can try the Typhoon H version of the binding verification you have used before on your Chroma. It's Attachment 34 (Typhoon H Binding Verification) of the PDF attached to Way To Fix Drones project. If you can tell us exactly what step fails to match the intended results, and what you saw instead of the intended results, we can have a good place to start diagnosis the issue.

Chroma Pilot · Feb 8, 2021

Cheers wtfp, just did the tilting bit with no Orange flashing resulting.
Are you saying/ recommend, deleting the current model and starting from scratch for a new model?, judging by my continual failures with getting things to a successful result not only with drones etc. makes me wary that I may shoot myself in the foot and wind up with no toys.
I just pulled up the Chroma binding again and doubt has reared its ugly head .... not sure/can't remember if I deleted existing model at the start, wiil do to Chroma bind again to be sure to be sure.

WTFDproject · Feb 8, 2021

Just to be sure, it's NOT the Chroma Bind. The Typhoon H Bind. It's the next Attachment after the Chroma Bind.

But yes, the instructions will have you create a new Model. I always delete whatever models are there, but that's just habit. Creating a NEW model is the important part.

h-elsner · Feb 9, 2021

Connect the drone to the GUI and check if all sensors are OK.
If you have still a model that is bound to the ST16 do an accelerometer calibration. Then remove the cam and try to bring it in binding mode again (yellow blinking). If you have bound the drone then you can attach the cam and bind it too.

Remark: For the cam there is no need to bring it in binding mode. It's normal procedure to connect a device to a WiFi hotspot using SSID.

This would be my approach...

br HE

Chroma Pilot · Feb 9, 2021

WTFDproject said:
Just to be sure, it's NOT the Chroma Bind. The Typhoon H Bind. It's the next Attachment after the Chroma Bind.

But yes, the instructions will have you create a new Model. I always delete whatever models are there, but that's just habit. Creating a NEW model is the important part.

Evening Tom, Just been doing attachment 34 and it failed to proceed past 35 (No orange internal LED) mmmmm all else OK BUT, where you indicate to see all the WiFi contacts, there is no 'Forget' to be seen. probably 'Australian' Firmwear in the ST16 methinks.
Over to you sir.

Chroma Pilot · Feb 9, 2021

h-elsner said:
Connect the drone to the GUI and check if all sensors are OK.
If you have still a model that is bound to the ST16 do an accelerometer calibration. Then remove the cam and try to bring it in binding mode again (yellow blinking). If you have bound the drone then you can attach the cam and bind it too.

Remark: For the cam there is no need to bring it in binding mode. It's normal procedure to connect a device to a WiFi hotspot using SSID.

This would be my approach...

br HE

G'day, When I load the GUI it stays on the screen just long enough to see that the accelerometers are OK but I do not get the chance to spin up the motors which I know are OK and battery indication is good. The GUI used to be OK on another computer but not this one. It is being looked at by IT professional, I just messaged WTFP to let him know binding failed at step 35mmmmmmmmm

WTFDproject · Feb 9, 2021

Chroma Pilot said:
Evening Tom, Just been doing attachment 34 and it failed to proceed past 35 (No orange internal LED) mmmmm all else OK BUT, where you indicate to see all the WiFi contacts, there is no 'Forget' to be seen. probably 'Australian' Firmwear in the ST16 methinks.
Over to you sir.

Easy part first:
"there is no 'Forget' to be seen. probably 'Australian' Firmwear in the ST16 methinks.
You have to tap each one. A window comes up if it is connected. If no window comes up, nothing to worry about.

Other part:
IF the internal orange LED is truly not lit, it will keep the drone from binding. But it will NOT normally keep the rear LED from flashing orange. So we have a problem to figure out. Generally, absence of the internal LED generally just means one of these things:
1.) Receiver has failed.
2.) Receiver is unplugged.
3.) Receiver is installed with the LED facing inwards (happens sometimes during repairs).

However, it appears something more is going on in your case. Maybe a short, or maybe some failure we haven't seen before. I think it would be a good idea to unplug the receiver completely. Then power up, tilt forward and see if the Rear LED will flash orange after you tilt forward a couple of times. (It still won't bind, of course, because the receiver will be unplugged.) If it still will not go into orange flashing, then it is an issue with the FC board, such as the accelerometer as mentioned by @h-elsner .
Sometimes there is enough room to reach in from the battery opening to unplug the receiver. Otherwise, you will have to remove the top shell, remove the 4 screws on the main ESC board, lift the board up a little, and then unplug it. Here is a picture of the plug you need to pull. Turn the drone over, and look here:

WTFDproject · Feb 9, 2021

Way back in post #1, you mentioned "deleting new model each time". but do you still have the original model available? If so, the drone will still be bound to it, and you can access the accelerometer cal as recommended by @h-elsner.

Chroma Pilot · Feb 9, 2021

WTFDproject said:
Way back in post #1, you mentioned "deleting new model each time". but do you still have the original model available? If so, the drone will still be bound to it, and you can access the accelerometer cal as recommended by @h-elsner.

Drat, I deleted he 'old model' this morning but will carry on regardless, 1st thing to start again and tap each WiFi thingo, push on and see if Orange flashing comes good if not proceed as you say. I'll report back when I can, stay tuned it may take a day or so Thanks heaps. BoyOBoy, that is some document. At some stage I'll talk with Haydn and keep him up to speed.

BTW, Dummass here has been stroking his chin a lot and cogitating re my Chroma....guess what, removed the plate where the Rx is---No Rx !!! %%$#**&@.... looked in drawer of bits and blimey it's (Rx) still attached to the old main control board in the plastic bag.

Now to separate brain hemispheres and talk TH one side, Chroma t'other, carefully?.
Stay safe.

Steve Carr · Feb 9, 2021

Haha....it happens to all of us.

Chroma Pilot · Feb 10, 2021

Steve Carr said:
Haha....it happens to all of us.

Here I am in OZ Steve with a dud Chroma and a dud TH trying desperately to get back in the air, good thing I still got the Tello happening

! Why you laff?

Chroma Pilot · Feb 10, 2021

Well now here it's 4.30a.m. , crikey now its 5.15 and can't sleep because I'm thinking about things in both hemispheres TH/Chroma. Fly on Saturday both birds die on Sunday and it looks like it might be terminal for both at great expense no doubt. Bought a new main board for the Chroma--AU$400 +postage UPS, send bird and bits to the then Yuneec fix it folk, Chroma comes back with 6 god ST10+, sorry cant fix it mate, get another ST10+ from Keith (free) over there, nope that wasn't it and when I bought Chroma, it came with a puffed LiPo, ok get one from the UK that's when it flew once with new Bat and then died, resulting in lots of to and fro with WTFP.

Buy refurbished TH from Chroma no fix crowd, YAY what a beast, flew it 2 or 3 times then it was uncontrollable, send it back, "can't fix it mate" here is a new one with 4 sets of props, 6 new batteries Gratis and when the current problems arose they don't do drones any more, "see Haydn here's his number". Haydn gets the TH, mods the ST16 pots doesn't touch the bird-no need to- Alas the underlying problem has has been exposed. From past Yuneec experience it looks like it's going to be...A/ Expensive and B/ Terminal.

The Tether is getting shorter No.

Rant over........

DoomMeister · Feb 10, 2021

A short video that may help you create and bind to a new model.

393.78 MB file on MEGA

mega.nz

Or on YouTube

Chroma Pilot · Feb 10, 2021

OK ..... Late mail---Success

.
Went through WTFp procedure again after phoning Haydn who advised me to start tilting at least 15secs after initialislation, I had to tilt it quite a few times until the main Led started flashing Orange, no internal led could ever be seen, after completion it all seems OK.

I do not want to fly yet, should I attempt a Compass Cal now?

Thanks to all for the support.

WTFDproject · Feb 10, 2021

In the first post, you mentioned suspecting the stick pots as the source of the drifting. If you have problems with the pots, compass calibration is not going to help. And it was during a compass calibration things went wrong last time.

Are you getting compass calibration warnings (rear LED flashing orange between normal colors)?
It would be good to first refresh your memory on the many nuances of the Compass Calibration by doing a search on the term "Compass Calibration" in the attached user manual. There are useful tidbits scattered all over the document.
Be sure to remove the props and the camera, and be prepared to get through the entire sequence in less than one minute or the calibration will fail.

If you decide to do a compass calibration, you should probably do an accelerometer calibration first. A search for "accelerometer calibration" in the document below will find the instructions. Two sets, actually. Use the normal method with the TH not running. The "Advance users Hovering Method" is a pain, and yields no value I can see.

Chroma Pilot · Feb 10, 2021

WTFDproject said:
In the first post, you mentioned suspecting the stick pots as the source of the drifting. If you have problems with the pots, compass calibration is not going to help. And it was during a compass calibration things went wrong last time.

Are you getting compass calibration warnings (rear LED flashing orange between normal colors)?
It would be good to first refresh your memory on the many nuances of the Compass Calibration by doing a search on the term "Compass Calibration" in the attached user manual. There are useful tidbits scattered all over the document.
Be sure to remove the props and the camera, and be prepared to get through the entire sequence in less than one minute or the calibration will fail.

If you decide to do a compass calibration, you should probably do an accelerometer calibration first. A search for "accelerometer calibration" in the document below will find the instructions. Two sets, actually. Use the normal method with the TH not running. The "Advance users Hovering Method" is a pain, and yields no value I can see.

Yes I'm on top of most things now. I spoke to Haydn and said he said yes to a Compass Cal. So I did an Accelerometer cal first and then a Compass cal. I got past two lots of flashing leds and then it failed. It's pretty hot outside at the moment which plays havoc with my body so I'll wait till this arvo when it's cooler. Haven't ever been past 1st lot until now since all this malarky started. Haydn did latest and I believe last updates to Firmware on both ST16 and the bird.

Thanks again to you all.